FLENG

pictures added sorry for the delay.... http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc87/FLENG2008/car006.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc87/FLENG2008/car007.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc87/FLENG2008/car008.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc87/FLENG2008/car005-1.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc87/FLENG2008/car004-1.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc87/FLENG2008/car001-3.jpg

hi im selling a 2003 galaxy ghia met blue 140k but full service history, cam belt changed at 106k just had minor service, drives absolute mint few minors hence the price, 1 parking sensor will need replacing and alternator belt is due for renewal few minor scrathces and stone chip around but i have seen these fetch between 4-5.5 grand on ebay and trader tax and mot till july its on ebay for

i have a 2003 ghia going cheap... pm me

thankyou both i will check the wiring today sorry forgot to mention 2003 ghia

i had a very similar problem i noticed mine doing the same, and presumed it was the thermostat opening then i noticed the heaters when i drop the kids off at school the car warmed up like it should but then a tickover it would cool off a bit and not really get any warmer, then when i continue to drive the heaters would be fine once again, seem very strange and ive had similar problem before with head gasket and these vw diesels have a look see if there is excess pressure in the expansion tank run the car for a bit say 5-10 mins then take the cap off, it should have a little pressure in there not alot, mine seemed to have a bit more than normal so i sold up. if it has pressure when the car is stone cold then that is a strong sign do you ever have to top up the water? it could be simply the thermostat opening like it should (at 90) letting cold water circulate as its letting the hot water out you mention the heaters being less efficient when it does it this but i would guess thats pretty normal if it only happens for a few seconds if the heaters are good the rest of the time i would say theres nothing wrong in my opinion

i searched parking sensor and looked through loads of threads but cant seem to find a solution the parking sensors dont work, no noise at all when you select reverse or press the button one of the sensors looks scratched but when i read some threads i was under the impression they should still make a noise of some kind? also pass side rear window doesn't work from the switch or the main drivers switch so if any one could shed some light or will i have to get a fault scan thanks in advance

thanks maz thats more of a reply i was after thank you

hi all thinking of selling its a 2001 ghia with dvd pack good condition throughout full 7 seats tax and mot, everything working as it should metallic grey 165k but just had

as some may know i recently bought a 2001 ghia tdi after spending some time with her i noticed a stone chip in the window in the drivers view, didnt think much of it at the time just though it was one of those unfortunate things i later discovered a rattle from the front end, it took me a few days to realise that the car had just been mot'd a few weeks earlier so i looked at the failure sheet, it failed on track rod end and ball joint i called the garage and they said they could remember the galaxy and the policeman owner, i managed to speak with the actual tester, he said he was sorry and he must have not checked the ball joint on the re-test and that he would replace the ball joint FOC for the error, im thinking this policeman is a friend of the mot tester?? i later rang the policeman and told him about the rattle and he told me that the ball joint was never changed but he did do the track rod do you think i should inform vosa or shall i let the tech sort the issue, im just thinking what else has he missed? i have kids so im abit concerned, also the mot garage is in reading and im in nottingham... also if i take the car to vosa, am i liable for the repair and a re-test fee? im not sure how vosa works and i could do with some advice if anyone has had a similar problem or know the vosa formality's many thanks

im in nottingham i havent got a spare but you can use mine to diagnose if you want..

hard to say without seeing the leak only thing you can do is keep an eye on the temp when you drive, only drive when you have to and as long as it doesn't overheat you should be fine and keep water with you at all times

no worries mate keep an eye on temp, dont let it overheat and you'll be ok if it does overheat on your way just pull up and let it cool down and add water if ness.. let us know how you get on

appreciate it seatkid...

LOL... If the header tank, behind the battery is half full that is normal, you should be able to see a max and mix mark on the tank, half way is normal the water for the windscreens has nothing to do with the engine so forget about that is there anywhere else the water could have come from, any rain, condensation , have you been using air con? i would suggest keeping an eye on the water in the header tank and the other eye on the temp gauge and carry a large bottle of water just incase of an emergency when you find a garage you can ask them to pressure test the coolant system (around

is there coolant missing from the header tank?

thanks zorgman i might try them and hope for the best thanks for the fast response edit: dont suppose you know a rough price for a genuine set do you?

hi all so i searched knocking front end , drop links, steering rack and strut mounts things like that but couldn't find what im looking for... ive got a knock/rattle on the front end when i drive on bumpy roads, so i jacked it up today and shook things around, it does look like there is play in anything except the rack, also i have a very slight creek form the steering which i read could poss be the strut mounts? there is no play up and down when you shake the wheel but there is a little play left to right both sides it failed the mot in December (before i bought it) for ball joint and track rod end, the track rod end is new not sure about the ball joint (hence the ball joint thread earlier) im just hoping its not the rack can anyone shed any light? im getting it looked at soon just though i might get a heads up before then... thankyou

righteo! thanks for the advice most appreciated...

i did ask if it was the ball joint or complete bottom arm it was just the ball joint

hi all just had a price from fords

most probs the turbo need cleaning as mentioned there is some stuff you can buy call inotec or something, its a cleaning kit and flush for the turbo to clean up the vanes, alot of the time it doesn't work as the vanes score the back plate inside the turbo so cleaning doesn't work unless you take it off and clean it properly, i had a link for the strip down and rebuild of the turbo unit with pictures and instructions i could find it for you if you want.. but before you change or repair the turbo, have you checked all the vacuum hoses for splits were they may have been rubbing against each other, just something you can check yourself for free but some probs the vnt mechanism if you look here it will make more sense