sotal

Personally I don't really see the point of the 2.3 petrol as it's only about the same speed as the 130bhp 1.9tdi and only marginally faster than the 115bhp. The diesels will also feel faster due to the torque curve. I guess the only reason to buy a 2.3 is they are cheap? I guess you need to weigh up how many miles you would do then weigh in tax costs etc. Ours is a 115bhp 2002, it costs

This may give you some ideas: http://www.caravans-for-sale.com/14766

Hows it gone since the filter changes etc? Sounds like it had been neglected a bit? I change the air filter at the correct intervals and it always still looks new! The fuel economy was one of the things I was most impressed with, with the galaxy. We tend to get around 40mpg just running around, if we go on motorway journeys and cruise along in 6th gear then we tend to get 50+. If I drive like a grandad I can get above 55mpg. In the Summer we drove down to the South Coast about 300 miles, we then drove around for a week down there then drove back up, the overal average for the whole week was 51mpg. I do notice that economy suffers a little in winter though with the aux heater running. Around town at the moment instead of 40ish we're getting around 35ish.

Yep just the bulb blown warning, it will always come on to start with until you press the brakes for the first time then it should go out, if it doesn't then have a look round for a blown bulb.

No problem, send us your paypal account and I'll send a fiver across to you if that's OK with you? Cheers

Hi Mirez, Did you manage to get a price for postage?? Cheers

If water was a crappy brown colour then you probably have a build up of crap which is blocking or restricting flow through the matrix. If it's like other cars I've had it blocks up first as the holes are quite fine. If it was my car I'd be emptying it and flushing everything through, matrix radiator etc until everything is free flowing and clear, then refill with fresh coolant

My guess would be air lock (still) or blocked heater matrix. When you refilled did you let the car run for 10 mins without the coolant cap on? This usually helps get rid of any air. Next thing would be to disconnect the two pipes that go through the bulkhead and put the hose (mains pressure) into one side and direct the other side into a bucket, this should clear any blockages and prove that water is flowing through the matrix. Have a look for brown sludge or flaky bits in the bucket. If it does have quite a bit of muck in then it may be worth using a descaler type product as well. Reconnect the pipes and see if that sorts it. The aux pump helps circulate water to the rear of the car and keeps water moving around after the engine is switched off - it won't make any difference to normal heating when the engine is up to temp.

It just has to be the right frequency. You just need the remote part itself, swap the blade and transponder from your car.

You wouldn't *have* to change the belt but you'll have to take it off and but it back on again. Personally I would change it but that's your choice - how many years ago was it changed?

Yes mate, Staffordshire - just let me know how much and your paypal address and I'll sort it out, Cheers

Hi George from what I have read on the Czech forum you gave me a link to, yes disconnecting pin 20 would stop the climate control from operating and would just heat the water, this is the way I plan to do it to to save battery power. The coolant will heat up to temp quicker without the climate control on, and will use less power - then when you start the engine the fans will start and quickly heat the car up as you will have instant heat.

I don't want to speed it up, it's a family car and goes more than fast enough. What I've found with other cars is that the EGR Valve is a dirty device which leads to other parts getting caked in rubbish and can cause problems. On the other cars I've been too late really and the damage has been done, so bits need cleaning out and the EGR blocking off. They're a dirty device which puts dirty air back into the system to have a second go at burning off the nastys rather than pumping them outside, they were an after thought to meet emmissions requirements - but they only run on overrun so they're not tested during the MOT etc. They're not used on many new engine designs. I wouldn't touch one of those ebay devices, it'll just be a 1p resistor and won't do the engine any good

I recently fixed my run-on pump, it wasn't running at all and the booster heater was cyling upto 360*C then cooling down to 60*C then going back up. I wasn't getting any faults though. I did mine differently though and didn't need to drill any holes etc. The thing was dead so I wasn't too worried about breaking it so I undid the screws on the front (not sure if you can do this without removing the pipes as you could twist it round - would have been quicker to) This then separates the motor from the pump. I then used a screw driver to bend back the tabs and remove the bottom of the motor. The brushes were just touching (108k). I found some brushes lying around in the garage from a power tool and filed them down I ended up filing down to 5x5x8 to clear the casing. I soldered them in place then realised how hard it was going to be to replace. So I took the other end off, I placed it over the jaws of a vice and used a small bar to drift the shaft through the bearing. You could then assemble the bottom with the brushes in place etc before replacing all the innards and the bottom together. To replace I stood the black bit with the bearing in on a bolt the same width as the bearing then placed the motor in place so the shaft was lined up, the shaft was then visible from the bottom so I used the bar I drifted it out with to drift it back in. All fixed, and has worked perfectly for the last few weeks. Drifting through an unsupported bearing can damage the bearing but it's that small I doubt it would, and I didn't care at the time as it was dead anyway! Also I think there may have been a cover over the end of the shaft in the bottom part (where I drifted it back in) but this would have fallen off when I drifted it out, I think I heard something fall but couldn't find it. I was stupid enough to refit using the original clips. I found a small per of long nose mole grips were almost perfect to remove the original clips, I say almost perfect as opening the jaws wide enough to fit meant they didn't open enough, I then used a regular pair of molegrips to turn the end of the small mole grips to tighten then grip. Hope this method helps someone (I make it sound easy but as I didn't know what I was doing I did make a few mistakes which I have missed out! I'm trying to now find another duff one cheap to refurb to replace this one with now I know how to do it!)

I'm pretty sure the MK2 load cover will fit the MK1 or the MK2 but the MK3 is totaly different

Hi, Most cars I've had, I've blocked off the EGR Valve which has given much better running etc, and I've never had a problem but I've heard that on the PD engine it can cause the Workshop light to come on, Has anyone blocked it off on a PD engine? Did it cause any problems? I've also had different ways of doing it on different cars I've had, on the Discovery I had you bought a plate, on ford zetec engines you just removed the pipe from the top of the EGR valve - pushed a ball bearing up it and replaced the pipe. Can the simple method (as per the zetec) be used on the PD engine? Is it worth doing? I've got to admit I have no problems to fix wheras every other car had symptoms like jerkyness when cruising, so I was blanking off to fix a problem - I just thought it may be better to prevent the problem first?

Correct only one sensor per axle, if they are giving a false reading just bridge them to disable them, pull the plug apart and bridge the socket with some thin wire then reconnect the plug - this will switch the light out. If you do one at a time you will know which one was faulty. The sensors come on very early really when there is still 2-3k left on the pads (about 6 months for me)

I know this is a bit old but the original poster never came back. I sort of accidentally did this myself the other day. As well as the Galaxy I bought a Ford Cougar which had a similar Head Unit but the CD changer was a Sony which was different to the one in the galaxy. The Sony one didn't work correctly - the audio was crackly. I pulled the head unit out and found that the sony CD changer was connected via an adapter box. The adapter box plugged into the CD changer socket on the stereo, then the Sony CD changer plugged in with a multi pin connection and a pair of phonos. I unplugged all this and plugged an mp3 player into the phono connections. At first it didn't work but the addition of a ground cable fixed it. I can't help with where to buy the interface but I've attached a pic of the board inside the black box. On the box there is a logo which says "ICD" and the model which is "FOR-SON" (Ford to Sony) The board seems to trick the head unit into believing that there is a CD Changer connected and passes the audio straight from the phono sockets. It doesn't need the cd changer connected at all to work. Hope that helps someone http://series3oc.co.uk/f2s.jpg

Hi Mirez, do you still have the spare pump? I'll happily pay for postage and packaging for it - I've just repaired my pump and made a bit of a hash of it. It works but I wouldn't expect it to last long so it would be great (now that I know how to do it) to refurb another ready for when my taped together one fails! If you still have it please let me know how much postage would be and I could sort it out via paypal - many thanks!