dave_m

After 4 years and 120,000 miles its time for the galaxy to go, I will be selling my Genuine VAG COM cable if anyone is interested, it is the serial port version so any computer you want to use it with must have a 9 pin serial port on it. This cable has saved me a fortune, and it could save you a lot too, It originally cost me about

The car has done 161k now and has recently started smoking at idle, If I sit ticking over I get a bit of smelly blueish smoke from the exhaust, when pulling off and revs increase a bit there is a big puff of smoke, as soon as revs are up a bit there is no smoke and the car drives fine, it is quite noticeable when sat at traffic lights. Does seem to be worse when the car is hot i.e stuck in traffic, I did use some diesel redex recently, but car has been filled up since with no redex. Any ideas, no doubt it will be something expensive :16:

Glowplugs are definately working, Tested Voltage with Multimeter whilst activating Glowplugs with Vag Com. Could possibly be a fueling issue I suppose, but I can clearly hear the whoosh of the fuel pump when I turn on the ignition so I don't think its the fuel pump. any other ideas??

Hi there, I have been having trouble starting the car 51 plate 1.9TDi in the mornings recently or whenever it has been left sitting for a good few hours, particularly in the cold weather, It starts for a couple of seconds (Runs very Rough) then cuts out and then you have to crank the engine constantly for about 30 seconds then it starts and runs fine, It will then run,stop and start perfectly all day. There are no faults showing in VAG COM so I am a bit puzzled as to what it may be and am releuctant to let a garage start guessing at my expense! I have changed all 4 Glowplugs and this has not helped, I checked the old glow plugs after removing and they were all ok. The car has done 150k, Last work carried out on it was Cambelt and Waterpump about 10k ago Any Ideas on things to check/get checked will be gratefully received! Thanks.... Dave

Haven't been on here for a while as the car has been behaving! I think my water pump has failed, Car overheats at speed and radiator seems to be too cool. No loss of coolant or anything and the heaters stay cold. The cooling system does not build up too much pressure so I don't think head gasket has failed it was replaced along with the cylinder head at 60k when the water pump failed the last time. What I want to know is how much should i expect to pay for it to be repaired. The dealer has quoted

I have a Nokia N70 with TomTom Mobile and a Bluetooth receiver, works great although emptys the phone battery quite quickly if car charger not connected. Prior to this I had the Navman Pin570 which I deleted the navman software and installed tomtom on it worked great but I found a few issues with it and it didn't last long Flimsy power connector on the bottom (broken very easily) If battery runs flat data is lost as there is no backup battery with my current setup My receiver even works if I put it in my pocket and is not affected at all by the heated windscreen in the Gal although the receiver is a high sensitivity one Don't think i could be without the sat nav now, although i do wish that someone would come up with "caravan friendly" sat nav so you could let it know you are towing and it will avoid narrow roads etc.

1999 Abbey Dorset

Since car came back from the bodyshop, the drivers side front window is sticking and going back down when it gets 3/4 of the way up which is becoming annoying, is this easy to rectify myself and what normally causes this any help is appreciated as I don't have the time to take it back there during the week and need to do it myself at the weekend.

What is the cost for timing belt replacement on a 51 plate 115PS PD engined Tdi. I want a rough idea as i am getting some quotes as theres no way I am having the dealer rip me off again. Last time it was replaced was during other engine work so i am not sure what the cost is to replace timing belt on its own! Regards, Dave.

don't know if anyones seen it but a good site for this scambaiting is 419 eater there are some quality ones on there its surprising what the nigerian conmen will do to get there hands on a few grand. have a look in the letters archive,

Sat Navs are the latest target for the thieving scumbags, Ebay makes it very easy for them to sell stolen gear as well. There are also too many people who are quick to buy stolen gear as well which generates more thefts. I make sure I hide the sat nav mount as well as I have heard of people breaking windows just because a sat nav mount is stuck to the windscreen in the hope its in the glovebox or under the seat. while were talking about scum, I had two exhaust backboxes stolen off my brand new car once,after they nicked the first one, I had it replaced and they nicked that the following night, oh if only i could have caught them.................

From experience i have found the glowplug lamp only indicates certain faults. As for the loss of vacuum which may be causing the fault. the DTC code shown on my car for this is P1556-Charge Pressure Controller Negative Deviation

sounds like loss of vacuum to the turbo control system, see the FAQ section for what to check I had exactly the same problem whilst towing, then car was fine it got worse and more frequent over time. It was eventually traced to a loose pipe on the Vacuum reservoir (round plastic ball on front of engine) but there are many places where a split pipe or loose pipe could cause these symptoms. People might say its the MAF, but it definately sounds like a vacuum problem to me try this post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ST&f=62&t=5921#

I have Etka but it won't display any prices, I have tried updating over the internet but it still does not give me any prices, If anyone has the working price file please let me know. regards dave

Haynes haven't done one for the MK2, Your best bet is to get a copy of the Ford Workshop Manual TIS or VW's Elsawin (which is better) both can be bought on ebay for less than a tenner. they cover MK1 and MK 2 as well as many other Ford and VW models they are the manuals used by Ford and VW technicians. :lol: :D

I've started to buy my parts from VW, the benefit being they don't make me pay for them until collection whereas ford do, I hate paying for something and then waiting ages for them to get it or finding out when you get there they have ordered the wrong part.

Looks to me from the pic like the airbags have been deployed!!!!!

Is it a standard Auto or Tiptronic type Autobox

I actually overhauled my spare wheel carrier, the steel cable i took out of it was totally twisted and mangled, You have to drill out/grind off the rivets holding it together but overhauling it was dead easy and cost me about a fiver, B&Q sell the steel cable and you need an electrical crimp to put on the carrier end to hold the cable on the winder and one of the tiny u-clamps (B&Q sell these aswell) for the steel cable to put on the other end after the that suspends the spare wheel. re assembled and coated inside with plenty of grease it has given me no aggro ever since and the spare has been on and off a few times. took me about an hour to do in total.

immobiliser is a passive device within the key, the remote battery does not power it, when my key came apart the little black "chip" fell out on to gravel it took me ages to find it.

after further investigation i can confirm it is the sensor that is faulty, i swapped the lhs and rhs sensors and the problem swapped sides on VAG COM I have found that you can test the sensor with a multimeter and the resistance values should be roughly the same value (about 1.15k in my case) I have ordered a new sensor from VW, not kept in stock so will be here tuesday. it seems they do not keep anything in stock these days, when I had a vauxhall, most parts came straight off the shelf but ford and vw only seem to keep service items in stock. anyway part ordered

Anyone know an approx cost for a new ABS speed Sensor????

I have measured the Impedance/resistance of the ABS sensor on both sides, Working RHS sensor- 1.114K ohm Suspect Sensor- (Open Circuit) Therefore I am almost certain it is the sensor itself because if it was the sensor ring surely it would give some sort of resistance reading????? here are the VAG COM logs as you can see it started as an intermittent problem and two days later gave up completely. Wednesday,07,June,2006,19:24:36 VAG-COM Version: Release 512.4-D Control Module Part Number: 1J0 907 379 P Component and/or Version: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001 Software Coding: 12702 Work Shop Code: WSC 00020 1 Fault Found: 00283 - Front Left ABS Wheel Speed Sensor (G47) 35-10 - - - Intermittent --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Friday,09,June,2006,20:46:24 VAG-COM Version: Release 512.4-D Control Module Part Number: 1J0 907 379 P Component and/or Version: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001 Software Coding: 12702 Work Shop Code: WSC 00020 1 Fault Found: 00283 - Front Left ABS Wheel Speed Sensor (G47) 35-00 - - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Right then an update on this........ I have checked the Sensor ring and it appears to be fairly clean and in one piece. Would I be able to see by visual inspection see if this is what is at fault???? I am wondering whether its the sensor itself, I have removed it and cleaned it but the fault code is still there, also the fault code does not change if i unplug the sensor completely, Tomorrow i may swap the LHS and RHS sensor to see if the problem "swaps sides"if it does not then its either the sensor ring or the wiring to the sensor. Does anyone know how this sensor works, is it some sort of magnetic switch????. TIS and elsawin say undo the allen bolt and remove sensor what it fails to mention is that the sensor will be unbelievably seized and will take you half an hour,half a can of WD40 and a torrent of swearwords before it will come out ^_^

:blink: VAG COM is telling me left hand side wheel speed sensor Is this Drivers side or Passenger Side