jvernon

Hi all, My first problem is my aircon. I have the dual aircon system (yep its got vents in the roof) and you probably recognise this dilema from other posts, but its blowing warm air! :D but only out of the front vents :lol: So I've narrowed it down to the heater flaps not shutting off correctly for the front blower motor. I remember reading somewhere in the forum that it's possible to recallibrate the climate control unit? Is this true and is it likely to be causing my problem? If so what's the procedure? If it's impossible to be the unit needing recallibration causing my fault then where exactly are the heater flaps? I assume they're behind the glove box somewhere with the evaporator/blower motor. Also the front evaporator doesnt appear to be draining any water :D is it possible that my evaporator is full of water and that is what's causing the warm air, im suspecting that its full of water because I can smell stale water coming from somewhere in the car but cant trace it, it does appear to be somewhere by the glove box and I've checked the carpet its bone dry :P I don't know is this is of any relevance but my outside temperature reading is wrong as well. Where is the sensor? I've seen something mentioned about a sunlight sensor as well? Is that just on the mk2's or could that be faulty as well? I while back my engine started making the timing chain rattle noise and the startup noise (hydraulic tappets?) I replaced the top chain guide rail and tensioner bolt and it went quiet for a while but now its back with a vengeance. What could this be? Do you think the guide rail has broken again??? :D If so what could keep causing it to fail like this? I'm a steady driver normally and have been being extra careful since I replaced the guide rail just in case it was my driving that had caused it to break. Im now seriously considering taking the engine out just to find out what's going on because I'm worried about it snapping and wrecking my engine :P How am I supposed to figure out which tappet is nackered? Or is it a just replace them all job :P Regards, John

From this topic I get the impression that if you have dual aircon you should not be limited with the temperatures from front to rear. Also does anybody know how to re-callibrate the climate control unit because I don't think the 'Auto' mode is working properly and I don't think the heater flaps are closing correctly. Is re-callibrating the unit even possible? I have VAG-COM by the way if that is needed to re-callibrate it. Also if anybody knows where the outside temperature sensor is that would be really helpful because having driven my sisters 2004 gal mine is sometimes up to 14 degrees out but only in hot weather. For example on one of the really hot days a couple of weeks back my sisters said 29 degrees and mine said 15 :blink: Could this be fixed by re-callibrating the c/c unit? Regards, John

Are you sure that's right? My gal is a 1999 2.8 GhiaX and has got dual aircon and one rear quarter window as you describe but no sunroof. Is it possible that the original owner requested it without a sunroof? Regards, John

Thanks everyone, sorry I didn't reply for ages, I didn't even realise anyone had replied. I saw those keys on eBay as well and they are the parts I want it's just that i've read on here somewhere that they can supplied from my a fraud dealer for about

After my remote locking failed ages ago, I decided that when I took the gal in for MOT I had the guy check the fault codes to see what the problem was. He said no faults showed up in the remote locking system, but he said just to confirm it he would test the key for RF output, he said the key was fine so it must have been the car part of the system even though no faults showed up. Yesterday I attempted tp programme my sister's gal key into my car and surprise surprise it works. I think i've read on the forum somewhere that they are about

Hi Seatkid, Do you have any idea whaty the re-callibration process is? My front aircon hasn't been as good as the back for a while now (although the back isn't as good as it should be). I was thinking that it must be the heater flaps not shutting off properly in the front because there is only one compressor isn't their?. Do I need a VAG-COM cable? I would much appreciate if you could tell me where to find out if you can't remember the procedure. Thanks, John

Hi seatkid, thanks for your response again. Aircon - I've checked the front aircon drain pipe, well what I think is the front aircon drain pipe for blockages and there doesn't seem to be any. I've poked a piece of wire about 2" up it (just to make sure I didn't go too far and damage something) and like I said I can't find a blockage but there was also no one-way valve(as far as I could tell anyway). How can I check if my unit is full of water? I tried turning the aircon on and seeing if any water came out of the pipe and none did, but it seems to be blowing air out of the pipe! Is this normal? I'm also getting a breeze from somewhere around the pollen filter but I can't pinpoint exactly where it's coming from. Is that normal? Remote Locking - I've followed the instructions carefully and tried to programme my remote key about 5 times, to no avail. It seems to be pointing to my key not emitting any signal to me but where I had it tested was my local, trusted garage. It's the one I always go to so I don't think they will have lied to me. Does anybody know if fraud will do an RF test for free? Thanks

Hi Seatkid, thanks for the reply. Aircon - My aircon display used to flash on startup, however upon just checking it it doesn't anymore. Could this mean I have a faulty pressure switch? The rear aircon is much colder than the front which makes me think there is definately a problem with the front aircon. Where does the water that the front aircon takes out of the air drain to? I've only noticed one puddle under the car when it was in use and that was the near side rear one, and if there is meant to be a puddle under the front aircon system, could this possibly be the water that was in the cabin when I was using the car? Remote Locking - Rather than having the batteries replaced straight away (I had them replaced just before I took the car off the road) I cheked them with my multimeter. There are 2 3V batteries in my key (can anyone confirm that the voltage is correct) and 1 of them was at 3.00V and the other was 3.03V, this should be fine shouldn't it? I then tried the reprogramming sequence listed in the manual and it did the same as it always does, the light on the door just stays on for 15 seconds, as if the antenna isn't recieving anything. I think I'm going to get a second opinion on if the key is emitting radio waves because I read somewhere on here that Fraud dealers do it for free? I find it unlikely that the module has gone without affecting anything else in the car. Water Ingress - Having sprayed the windscreen and the all round the wheel arches with my fairly powerful hosepipe jet and applied the rear window washer for about 3mins continuously, I can find no trace of water inside the cabin. Any thoughts? Thanks

Hi everyone, Just took my 1999 2.8 VR6 GhiaX in for it's MOT and while it was there I asked the garage to check the fault codes for any air conditioning or remote locking system faults (at

Thanks everyone for your replies. MM - I had thought about buying a cable from VAG-COM themselves but there were so many to chose from I just didn't know which one I needed. Also the price put me off. I won't be too gutted if I loose

Hi! Thanks everyone for your replies. There all seems to have been a bit of confusion so I decided not to buy that cable and wait for a few more responses on here. MM & DG - I thought that the VR6 was a VW engine, if it's a VW engine will they have installed a VW car management system? Rallim - Is the cable you recommended from a specific eBay member that you have used before or can I just do a search and get any optical-isolated cable if I decide to get one. The version of VAG-COM I have access to is a 2001 version anyway and it's the proper version not the shareware. I have attached a picture of my connector, hope this helps. Is that an OBDII? PS Sorry for the poor quality I had to use my mobile and it was dark :) Thanks again everyone.

Thanks for your replies. Masked Marauder - I had thought about getting it checked at a local garage but I thought if I get VAG-COM and a cable I can check what's wrong the next time my ABS light comes on (guranteed it will). Rallim - So that cable is all I need to connect VAG-COM to my laptop? No other dongles or anything? I assume that OBD II is the connector on my car then? It is a 1999 Galaxy VR6 GhiaX. If you think that there is no chance of me wrecking my electronics through a faulty cable I'll go ahead and buy that one! Thanks again for your replies.

Hi all! I've been offered a CD with a load of auto diagnostic software on it. The programs are called: Car Code - OBDII OBDII Scan Tool AutoTap Diagnostic Scan Tool VAG-COM OBDII Logger wOBD VWTOOL If any of these programs are any use to me can anyone advise which one of these is best to use and which cable I need to connect my laptop to my car. I know having this program is not a necessity but I need to diagnose which one of my wheel sensors is causing my ABS fault and I'd rather not pay a fraud dealer. Preferebly I need a ready made cable because I've heard that if you make it yourself and bodge it up you can wreck your ECU electronics. I've been looking on ebay for one but I've got absolutely no idea what I'm looking for. Any help appreciated.

Figured it out. One of the pipes that i think go into the injector manifold, or near the throttle switch, had a split in it and was leaking onto the exhaust.

It was white i think. Not sure though. It has stopped doing it a bit now. It's not as bad, you can only see it when you open the bonnet, before it was puffing out of the sides of the bonnet and out of the front grill. I have no undershield on because i have just changed the CPS and i am planning to do an oil change. It didn't smell like electrical burning, but i couldn't tell what it did smell like. I can hear a noise which is like something hissing, it sounds like somehing dripping onto something hot and i can see liquid marks all over this bracket in the engine bay from underneath, i can also see something dripping underneath the car. when it has stopped dripping i will have a look and keep you informed. Thanks again.

I have had a thought! :D I have very low pads on my brakes and was going to change them this weekend. If it is rubbing metal on metal will it get very hot and make smoke? Just a thought.

thanks for the reply. there are no lights lit up on the temperature gauge and temperature looks fairly normal, no where near red anyway. Does that mean i have a coolant leak. I can't make my mind up whether it is smoke or steam. If it is steam it is smelly steam! Thanks again

My 1999 2.8 V6 Ghia X with dual air con has just started having smoke coming out of the bonnet. I quickly went home, lifted the bonnet and saw that the smoke or steam or whatever was coming from around or under the air box! Any suggestons please! P.S I really need your help!

:D Ref. starting problems with my 2.8 GhiaX I finally replaced the C.A.S. which seems to have cured the intermittent non-starting (350 miles so far ) PS many thanks to Topbloke for your suggestions-incidentally I measured the resistance of the new C.A.S. at 891 ohms (old one read between 2k & 13k ohms depending on temperature)

Thanks for the replies topbloke! I think it's the CPS because my Gal keeps on breaking down. There is no spark and it is not the coil pack i have had that recently replaced. When it breaks down I hear 5 beeps when i try to restart it. When i disconnect the CPS plug it does the same beep five times even when you turn the key, not to the start position! What do you think? P.S Oh yes! thanks for the resistances

thanks! I have the TIS cd but can't find it on there!

Anybody have any electrcal info to test this sensor? Thanks in advance :)

I used to have a Clio and if you just put your brake full on the brake pedal creeps to the floor after a while. I think that indicates a brake master clinder fault or something :D

justine, i was wondering if you knew which relay it was because your problem is exactly the same as mine. thanx

I have cleaned my key and it works perfectly now! Thanx for the advice! I didn't think it was the PATS when I break down because the light in the door doesn't indicate a fault. Could it still be the PATS?