jvernon

Possibly could be that one of the hinges is not bolted on properly? Needs tightening up? Just a thought - worth checking at least. Regards, James

The transmitter in your key is probably broken. Mine also stopped working some time ago so I replaced the batteries. The red LED in the key lights up but it doesn't actually transmit anything. I know this because at the time I programmed my sisters working key into my car and it worked fine ;) Perhaps you can get someone to lend you their key for a bit so you can test that the car end of things is alright? If you do borrow a key - remember to program it back into their car for them when you've finished ;) Regards, James

Are you sure that you've actually cleared all the codes? Sometimes with my when I use VAG-COM, when do an automatic scan of all modules then try to clear all codes, it doesn't actually remove them from memory - it just removes them from the screen for some unknown reason. You then have to go into the module itself and THEN clear the fault codes. I don't know if you've actually gone into the module seperately to get the fault codes that you have found, but if you haven't I'd recommend trying this method :wub: If you have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about - probably the easiest way to check if it's really cleared the codes is to do another full scan. Regards, James

You sure about that Neil? I thought the aircon automatically makes the fan's kick in at half speed but only when the temperature is above normal do they come in at full-speed? I would guess that this is more of an Idle Control Valve problem than a temperature sensor merely because the fault clears itself if you can keep the engine running long enough using the accelerator so perhaps like you say Galaxy-guy, time to give it a clean. Regards, James

Can you describe the problem a bit more? I'm slightly confused at what you're asking for help with and perhaps that is the reason that nobody else has replied? :blink: It could be that everyone on the forum except me knows exactly what you're going on about but just doesn't know how to help; but with the combined knowledge from all the members on here I find that extremely difficult to believe. Regards, James

The misfire when warm and the fluctuating temperature guage are probably related in some way. The temperature would affect the fueling and if the temperature is being misread; this could cause the misfire you're getting? Perhaps there is some way you can check the temperature sensor? Measure the resistance across it maybe? To do this you'll need to post the details of your car so that someone with the same car can check the resistance on their temperature sensor for you because as far as I'm aware there's no listing of resistances for senors on any of the information CD's? I have to say I find it hard to believe that an injector will work when it's cold and not when it's warm - although I don't know much about diesels so I could be wrong. Can anyone else verify this? Regards, James

The car going into limp-home mode would indicate that the ECU has picked up a fault somewhere, so the best way of diagnosing what your problem is would be to get the car plugged into VAG-COM or some similar diagnostic software to read the fault off of the ECU. Where abouts are you based? Perhaps if there is somebody on the forum with VAG-COM they'd be willing to come and plug it in for you? Regards, James

slow but ....... :wub: Haha fair point! Glad you got it sorted big_kev James

Just to clarify, in case the above quote was referring to my reply or in case somebody else get's the wrong end of the stick, I wasn't saying that the fact that the glowplug light is not illuminating for a short period during warm starts (as it should from what I can gather from the forum as I've never had a diesel galaxy) means that the glowplugs are preventing it from firing up; I merely thought perhaps this could indicate something else used in the starting sequence not doing it's job properly? :blink: I don't know if that's correct though; just something to think about. James

Haha too slow :blink: James

At the very top of the page you should see the Invision Power Board logo bar - yes? Immediately below this bar in a different shade of blue is a bar which says Unofficial Ford Site on the left of the page; follow this bar and you should see the following options at the right of the page: Live Chat, Arcade, Help, Search, Members, Calender. Hope this helps, James

Yes I see what you mean. I'm having a bad today today - or yesterday now I suppose :) James

Ahh I should have thought of that. I agree with NikpV...the fact that the glowplug light does not come on at during warm starts probably does indicate something is wrong with the starting sequence. The question is what? Am I correct in thinking that you've already had it plugged into diagnostic software as this part of your last reply confused me a little...i'm not having a good day today lol. If not I'd recommend it...hopefully the ECU will have logged a fault code relating to your problem which will point you in the right direction? Where abouts are you based? I'm sure if there's someone near you on the forum with the right software and/or equipment they'd be willing to help :) James

Glad to hear you solved the problem. How strange...I'd have placed money on something else not working! Good job I didn't though eh :) Regards, James

danny.s Is the car now listed on eBay? Did the engine run OK before this problem or have you never had it running properly? If you have had it running properly...does it have the dreaded cam chain rattle? Regards, James

I would imagine it is possible to route the belt incorrectly...but i'd think this would cause at least one other thing driven by the auxilliary drive belt to also to be noticeably malfunctioning? The only thing to do is check the routing of the belt when possible and then go from here. I bet a new power steering pump is quite expensive :23: unless of course you can get one from a dismantlers to test and 90% positively eliminate (there's always a chance that the pump off the scrapped could be broken as well :) ? Regards, James

Firstly, I recommend you put your vehicle details in your signature for any future problems you have that require the specifcation of your car. NikpV has posted details of how to do it in this post: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...indpost&p=64516 Does the length of time it takes before it allows you to restart it relate to the temperature of the engine when it stalls? Or does the car always stall at the same temp.? A faulty coolant temperature sensor can cause all sorts of problems with sensor orientated engines such as the ones fitted to our vehicles so they're probably right in thinking that this is causing your problem. To the rest of the forum: Is there such thing as a 'Fuel Valve'? Or is it usually called something else? Regards, James

Thanks anadin, where is the temperature sensor? I thought I read somewhere on here that there were three of them??? I had thought it was perhaps a dodgy temperature sensor but then when I realised that the fans' different stages were working I assumed that what stage the fans were running in would be determined by the same sensor? Any ideas about the coolant run on pump? Where exactly is it? Thanks, James

Hi all, had this problem for a while now, finally decided it was about time I got it sorted. I've noticed that if I use the car with the climate control in 'ECON' mode whilst in stop and start traffic the coolant temperature will creep up and would probably carry on into the red if I allowed it to, the temperature can be brought down by enaging the air con to bring both the fans on. I had thought it was just a dodgy temperature sensor but I noticed the other day that the different fan stages are working. For example, if I allow the temperature gauge to be on the verge of the red zone and then turn the aircon on, the fans come on full speed until the car gets to normal temperature and then they slow down. Could the problem still be a faulty temperature sensor? I've also noticed that the coolant run on pump has stopped working. Could these problems be related somehow? I'm hoping to get a look tomorrow so will let you know what's wrong if I find out. Regards, James

Oh right, I see. Thanks for that Masked Marauder :wub: I think I know what you're talking about, I'll try and post a picture about what I think it is tomorrow when it's light. Is there any way I can check if it's working? I would expect VAG-COM to show a fault at this point to be honest but I've tryed it several times and there's no faults found. What's the coolant run-on pump controlled by? Does anyone know? I'd like to get that fixed I don't want anything getting warped due to hot spots. Thanks again, James

Yup tried swapping the plugs over 3.5bullet, definately a broken fan thanks for the suggestion though :wub: The slam panel? What's that? Is that just a technical name for the central junction box where all the fuses and things are?? :) Thanks, James

Thanks for your replies NikpV. Yup I'm aware of the problem with the hissing and about to have it re-gassed and leak checked etc. I don't think it has got a leak though because my car has never been re-gassed as far as I know and it's 6 years old so if they lose gas at a rate of 10% per year (I read it somewhere) I must be 60% down already. I had thought perhaps there was a dodgy temperature sensor but as I understand it theres only one? so if the temperature guage and VAG-COM say it's 105 degrees then the fans should be on I think. Please correct me if I'm wrong that's just my understanding at the moment. I just need to find out what controls the fans and the run on pump and if they are the same thing I would say that has to be the faulty component. Any help appreciated :) Thanks, James

Hi everyone, After reading a topic on here recently I discovered that only one of my two cooling fans actually work because I only have one working when the air conditioning is on. I've checked that there's power to the other one and there is, so I know it's a new fan I need. Is there a way of just unbolting it from the shroud and taking it out? But what concerns me more is that the air conditioning has recently started making a hissing noise from behind the glove box, which I believe is a sign it requires a re-gas? So I havn't been using the aircon, I've been using the 'ECON' mode instead. I've noticed that when the car is stationary for a while with the engine running without the air conditioning on (therefore no cooling fan), the coolant temperature creeps up and the cooling fans don't come on, not even the one that actually works :( I've checked for power to them and they're getting no power at all not even when the temperature gauge is just before the red area and VAG-COM is showing 105.5 degrees celsius. What controls the fans? I also think that the coolant run-on pump has stopped working!!! Could these be related? This is quite important as we go to France in 3 weeks! Thanks, James

My fans appear to be working the same as yours Sharanfx and I have a V6. The lower fan (the one on the right, as if you were looking at them from in front of the car) comes on when the aircon is on and the second one has never come on as far as i know yet the temperature always stays in the normal zone. I would appreciate if you can let me know what happens with yours, Regards, James

Can somebody just clarify for me? Are both radiator fans supposed to be on when climate control is switched on regardless of coolant temperature? I've only ever had one fan running whether the climate control is on or not and to be honest I'm not even sure if the second fan works. I always thought the second fan was 'stage 2' and that it only came on when the temperature got too high for example if the car was being used in a country with a warmer climate. It doesn't bother me that the second fan doesn't come on because the temperature always stays in the normal section of the guage, I'm just curious. :) Regards, James