junky

I've got 7MO 133 990 L on mine! Galaxy 1.9TDi 'R' Reg

I take it that the hose you mean is the one with a clear pipe as it gets nearer to the pump. You don't need a ford part for this, just a fuel pipe from a car factor shop for about

Haven't personally used it but heard some mixed reviews about it. Quite expensive, I believe. I have a document saved on my computer some place that a owner has used 'Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner' to good effect, something to do with the main ingredient in it (Sodium Hydroxide) which basically disolves all the carbon deposit (as in a oven!!) If you want, i'll dig it out. That article might be useful for me too!

Any chance you could put up a picture of the snapped off part for a clearer idea of what the problem is.

OK, so had the Vag-com connected and set Chassis as VW Sharan, guess thats right? Anyone please confirm. Anyway got the following errors from the ECU before clearing faults. After connecting lead, then running software I selected 'Program Options' and highlighted COM4, my selected com port, hit 'Test' then 'Save'. Then back to Home Page - Selected 'Select Control Module' Selected '01 Engine' Selected 'Fault Codes' and heres the results: 6 Faults Found : 00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure 17-10 - control difference - intermittent 00550 - Shareware Version. To decode all DTCs 17-00 - Please Register/Activate 01269 - Shareware Version. To decode all DTCs 31-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent 01237 - fuel shut off valve (N109) 31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent 65535 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 37-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent 00553 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 17-00 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent Then cleared the fault codes on the '01 Engine' page. Thats as good as memory serves anyway! Now I'm off for a short drive to gather more fault codes before logging new codes.

OK, drivers and software installed, VCDS Lite 1.1. Ready to run the test, shall report back later.

Vag-com lead arrived today, hoooooray!!!!! But what do I do now?

I know its a long shot but have you tried any charity shops, they do get them in from time to time and you might just be in luck! If I get a chance I shall pop along to a couple of ours and see if they have one, you never know!

Right then, used car to take kids to school this morning and guess what, the car was running fine, went through the gears with no power loss, got up to 80mph quite easily, unfortunately no hills on the way to school. But then coming home the car was sluggish again, shame because the hill on the way home would have been the ultimate test. Did manage to do the MAF test again last night to find there is in fact 1.2V at 1000rpm and 2.6v at 3000rpm. Other than adding some water to the coolant and testing the MAF last night nothing else has been done so shall look into the wiring at the MAF sensor, possibly a loose or broken/corroded connection causing intermittent results. Still no sign of the vag-com lead so can't really do a lot at the moment, probably won't arrive until Monday, Tuesday at the latest.

Aha, only getting 0.23v due to not getting a proper connection on the connection. So I am actually getting 1.2v at idle, roughly 1,000rpm, increase revs up to around 3,000rpm and only getting around 2v. I will have to do this test again tomorrow when my partner can assist as it is hard applying revs to the acc. pedal whilst holding the meter probes on the pins at the same time so not conclusive at the moment, but don't think I am far off. When testing I blew through the MAF and got 2.75v, now then, can I blow in harder than what the engine can suck in air??? Could this be a problem with the suction? What causes the suction?

Just found an interesting article which gave the following stats, based on a 1.9TDi VW Golf but wonder if it would be the same for the Galaxy VW engine, pay particular attention to the MAF voltage readings I obtained earlier compared to this, I just added the rest for general info, it may help someone in the future. I read 0.23v at idle (roughly 1,000RPM) whereas the stats state 1v at idle,950rpm. Shall go and take a reading at 3,000 rpm. Technical Specifications Component Voltage Output ECM pin Air Mass meter 1V at 950rpm, 4V at 3,000rpm P13 Coolant temperature sensor 4V at 20

Now then, after removing and re-fitting the instrument panel the other day the rev counter was not working. So I thought I had disturbed a wire or something under the bonnet, anyway turns out where I had obviously held the instrument panel on its side too long then turned it around possibly 360 degrees it caused the rev counter needle, which floats freely, to rotate completely all the way around so it was under the stopper where the needle would normally be rested on top of with the ignotion off. Well, back to normal now and I've learnt something new! So, this is just another prime example of a noob attempting to fix one problem and ignorantly causing others, doesn't help when you guys are trying to help us but then you are probably used to it by now and I'm sure it gives you a laugh at times, so heres one on me :)

Vag-com lead on its way in a couple of days, bought the one as suggested earlier! Yes, gonna forget the loose wires, they are actually green,red and blue, the blue one has been soldered onto the purple wire thats connected to the instrument panel wiring loom???? Traced the other end of the cable and it is not connected to anything and has been cut or pulled off something, anyway its located behind the lower glove box on the passenger side but can't find anything obvious it has come from, also removed the upper glove box and still nothing obvious, so just gonna forget it now, thanks. All I was trying to do was to establish that the MAF is in fact doing something rather than not at all! Unless someone can do the same test for me then the results I found are meaningless as you quite rightly put it, just causing a red herring. Maybe I shall report the readings taken from a MAF once the car is back up and running as it should, if that ever happens. I am going to need to get a new air filter as the current one is dirty and has a slight contamination of oil, which by the way so does the MAF, so I suppose give that a clean too - it still has the wire mesh protective grill on both ends so might have to pull them off to get to the sensor properly (well, its basically a metal strip which I guess can easily be broken so won't actually make physical contact whilst cleaning, use a cleaning spray of some sort).

Also, the charger pressure control valve has 3 hoses 1 - to the air filter housing - is this just a breather pipe? 2 - to the vacuum canister via a 'T' pipe - this is where the vacuum is created - so I should find suction on this hose? 3 - to the turbo actuator - should also be suction here to operate the actuator for the turbo Can confirm that there is no suction or blowing on 1 - air filter housing but not been able to gain access to the other 2 yet.

There is a hose that connects to the ECU (behind instrument panel) from the air duct, intercooler to intake manifold, located immediately next to the charge pressure sensor. If I remove the hose to the ECU with the engine running and at high revs i.e. not idle, it blows (blows out towards the ECU) as opposed to a vacuum, is this correct? I did read a thread on here regarding a 2-3" hose inside the ECU thatmay be broken, I may remove ther ECU and have a look!

On a side note, whilst removing the instrument panel to locate the ECM out of curiosity to locate it I noticed there is a cable with 3 wires, red white and blue, 2 of these have been cut or removed from somewhere, any idea what they are for. These are not cables from the loom to the instrument panel but a separate cable which does connect somewhere to the instrument panel, I think it was the white wire still connected. Air bag perhaps?

quick and dirty maf diagnosis - time yourself up a hill disconnect maf - redo timed hill - if slower MAF is probably ok if better or no change then MAF u/s - this has worked twice for me now - (155k miles) Doesn't seem to make a difference with or without MAF connected. I have kind of tested but really need someone with a known good one to read some voltages with a meter. The MAF was removed but with the wiring connector still attached. The 6 pin connector only uses 5 pins i.e. 5 cables connected. pin 1 is 12-14v pin 2 is gnd pin 3 is 4-5v pin 4 is not connected pin 5 is gnd pin 6 is signal voltage to ECU/ECM With the car running (only for the purpose of providing the 12v and 5v to the MAF Sensor) I was able to take the signal voltage reading which was 0.23v which increased to 2.75v whilst I was blowing through the sensor housing, obviously couldn't take the readings whilst driving. This voltage varied depending on how hard I blew through it! But 2.75v was the highest reading I could get as I could not blow any harder. Oh yes, and blow in the direction of the arrow as indicated on the sensor housing, though I doubt it makes a difference. Now the question is, and I now this test is by no means conclusive, but is this voltage about right?

Yep, hoses connected correctly.

Bought enough but the other hoses are a different bore size, dumbo! Shall have to get more, thats the trouble with doing things in the dark.

Might have guessed, but just had a look, couldn't help myself and found the hose connected to the turbo actuator looks suspect and on further investigation appears to be a couple of other suspect hoses. The hose from the actuator connects to what? charge pressure control valve (has 3 hoses connected to it) well the other hose (the one located immediately next to the actuator hose, not the one by itself on the opposite side) also looks suspect (goes to vacuum canister perhaps). Then theres another device which is located behind the fuel filter and immediately next to the charge pressure control valve that has 2 hoses connected to it and a wiring connector which has a suspect hose which disappears under the engine bay, can't trace it at the moment, shall look tomorrow Will get some new hoses tomorrow and replace. Any idea what hose I need to get please? bore size or type and recommended length needed to replace all of them, I guess the obvious thing to do is remove one and take it with me! Cheers guys! Shall report back once this has been done!!! All they had was 3/16" fuel pipe, thicker pipe and more rigid, bought 3 metres, so shall see how it goes, may have not bought enough!

Might have guessed, but just had a look, couldn't help myself and found the hose connected to the turbo actuator looks suspect and on further investigation appears to be a couple of other suspect hoses. The hose from the actuator connects to what? charge pressure control valve (has 3 hoses connected to it) well the other hose (the one located immediately next to the actuator hose, not the one by itself on the opposite side) also looks suspect (goes to vacuum canister perhaps). Then theres another device which is located behind the fuel filter and immediately next to the charge pressure control valve that has 2 hoses connected to it and a wiring connector which has a suspect hose which disappears under the engine bay, can't trace it at the moment, shall look tomorrow Will get some new hoses tomorrow and replace. Any idea what hose I need to get please? bore size or type and recommended length needed to replace all of them, I guess the obvious thing to do is remove one and take it with me! Cheers guys! Shall report back once this has been done!!!

quick and dirty maf diagnosis - time yourself up a hill disconnect maf - redo timed hill - if slower MAF is probably ok if better or no change then MAF u/s - this has worked twice for me now - (155k miles) Cheers, shall try that tomorrow. The MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor, right?) connected on the air filter housing, I assume just disconnect the wiring connector. Sorry but what do you mean by 'u/s'??? Currently at around 165k miles, just for info.

OK, thanks. Will this cable also work on a newer Galaxy? 2008 model? The reason I ask is that we are planning on buying an '08 Galaxy in the next couple of weeks.

Aha, but don't have access to the equipment for that, can I download the software for free? Then need to buy a lead to connect to the car? Where can I buy the lead to connect between the car and laptop?

Bought a metre of return fuel line hose for under a fiver and cut them to the required lengths and replaced the hoses to the injectors within minutes, also replaced the hose to the fuel/injector pump. Haven't actually used the car much the last couple of weeks prior to fitting new hoses so can't report further other than today the car did start first time with no problems but have noticed a lack in power, this was an issue before as it never has liked going up hills, shall look into the MAF Sensor, hoses and N75 which I have read about on other peoples threads on this forum regarding power issues. Any help or pointers would be appreciated though.