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Hi, yes testing off line so to speak, remove connector and wired straight from battery. Clutch does not engage. Took old compressor apart to see if there is anything that may stop the clutch operating but there is no obvious pressure internally. There is continuity between the two pins on the compressor which I would have expected?? Found this online for the Sanden compressors and it says there should be about 3 ohms resistance but I am only getting 1 ohm - http://www.sanden.com/images/On-vehicle_test_procedure.pdf What I'm getting at is that I don't really know what having continuity and lower resistance means as I don't fully understand how these clutches operate....any idea? Thanks guys

Need some one with a bit of expertise in auto electrics. From looking at Mirez's website that could be you.... :o In process or sorting the Air Con on my MKII 2.3 and concluded that the compressor was knackered. Tried appliing 12V directly to it but the clutch wouldn't engage and the compressor itself is plastered in dye as if its failed internally and leaked. After taking advice from a mechanic mate i've gone to the expense of replacing the compressor which I did last night along with the receiver drier and expansion valve. Now I still need to get it regassed but just as a trial last night I thought I'll make sure the clutch engages on this one for piece of mind and nothing. Wired direct from the battery to the compressor and can't hear the usual clunck.... So my question is, what should I be doing to check if the clutch engages ok? On my old Mondeo when it had a leak elsewhere I was able to simply run a wire from the battery to the compressor and it would fire up OK ruling that out. As the compressor is new I can't believe its duff before its even been used....... Any tips on checking this out? Many Thanks

I'd get yourself the Service manual from a well known aution site and read up on it. I had the replace the drive shaft oil seal at the gear box and it was a sh1t of a job as you have to remove the drivers side to knock the passenger through using a special tool through the diff. ( thats when a handy old man who can knock up a tool in the garage becomes invaluable!! The ford tool would be

It was the shock in the end......new one's fitted, smooooooth now! Ford got an offer on at the mo for shocks, got 25% discount although that was a 'trade' price. Next up, Air Con! Compressors knackered,

Good stuff - Thanks

Missus is reporting sudden poor MPG and I've noticed occasionally when starting (warm and cold) that is runs really rough for about 10 seconds then seems to clear its throat! Any ideas? Would a fault code reader help? Got any warning lights on. MkII 2.3 Cheers

Can these be replace or do they form part of the whole bar assembly. Can't find any info in the TIS and read on here its one piece?? Thanks

Hi all, been investigating the front end knocking issue a lot of us seem to be getting. Just thought I'd post my findings. I'm a reasonable competent DIY mechanic but also have family / friend who are decent mechanics. Some time ago we ruled out the usual drop links or roll bar bushes. Been waiting for the weather to improve before I tackled the rusted top nut of the shock mounting to have a look at the top of the strut. (What a sh1t design so that the top fills with water and really hard to access!!) Anyway, took it all apart yesterday and nothing wrong with the strut moutning either!! Grrrrr So I can only conclude that its actually the shock damping that has given up the ghost. Its not that obvious from bouncing the car up and down but there does seem to be a slight difference in how the shock settles from one side to the other. Will replace this week and report back but I'm fairly convinced now that is what the issue is. I think cos of the weight of the car it only really shows when driving and is difficult to replicate on the drive. Also notice the rear roll bar mounts have gone causing a lot of rattling which could easily be mistaken as a noise from the front as it sort of echos around the cabon, so will do those also. Might help some one out who like me has been scratching their heads as to why the front end of the car sounds like its gonna fall off everytime you hit a minor bump! PS Seems to have a lot of faults for a 60k MkII FSH!!!! Drive shaft oil seals Coolant leak from thermostat housing (took 6 week to get part)! Rear roll bar bushes Front shocks A/C Compressor knackered Rear washer pipe disconnected under passenger seat Intermittent remote locking Sudden poor fuel economy Occasional rough idle on start up Plus various other niggles Shame as the vehicle type is perfect for what I need Moan over! :16:

Think the tensioner is spring loaded so auto adjusts. They do stick over time. Remove tensioner and give it a good clean + lube making sure it operates OK. Might as well replace the belt if you go to the effor of taking tensioner off. New tensnioner is expensive (

Yeah its a pain to do without the right tools. especially to get access!! A swan neck ring spanner does the trick.....or your make shift tool!! :o

Hi Tony, I've had a good look now and got a mechanic mate to look also. On mine with the wheels on the ground if you grap to top of the wheel and rock quite hard there is a distinct knocking. I thought it might be wheel bearing but we tracked it down the the strut top mounting bush. Will be replace this week sometime so hopefully sorts it out. Can't find any play anywhere else in the suspension. When you say you've replaced the top mounts do you mean the plate that sits in the top in the engine bay or the bush on top of the strut that sits up inside the wheel arch?

Hi. See my response on this thread. Its a bit of a pain but only takes about half an hour. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=19269 If you have TIS it does tell you how to remove the trim to get to it all which might help

I had a good look at mine last night whilst replacing a drive shaft oil seal.....what a job that was!!!!! ;) Anyway, I couldn't find anything other than some movement in the strut top mounts. Thing is the movement on the other side is the same and no noise from there. The drop links are new although I didn't fit them as they were on the car when I got it recently, and couldn't feel any play even with a 2 foot bar levering things around!! Gonna have a go at tighening the top strut mount later to see of that helps......very strange

MK2 2.3 defo a cam chain. Would imagine MK1 is the same. A quick call to your local Ford parts desk would confirm

I found them!! The are behind the fuse box in the drivers footwell!!! Its a bit of a pain as I found you had to remove the interior to get access. Get yourself FORD TIS of ebay (Fords workshop manual) for a few quid and it will tell you but basically to following goes. Prise off the silver strip above the headlight controls and the side panel that faces the door. Remove the torq screws holding the light controls in place and disconnect wires to remove. Undo the screws that hold the panel around the fuse box in place and remove panel. On the bottom of the fuse box there is a pivot point with white plastic clips holding the fuse box in place. Pop these clips off and lift the fuse boxout of the pivot points. The hole fuse box assembly should then be free for you to tilt towards you making access to the relays easier. I cut the cable ties holding the cable loom to the fuse panel for ease of access them re tied before putting back together. Probably worth checking its not just a dodgy corroded connection on the compressor though first.

I have the same mate. Not change the top mounts although there does appear to be quite a bit of play. The drop links are brand new also. I have been told it could be the anti roll bar mounts. Will be investigating tmrw night so will let you know. Anyone else got any clues before I get my hands dirty?? Thanks

Thanks again for the info. I will look inot Keith Lye... The VW kit you have - what does that comprise of exactly and how much you looking for it? I assume its the same as the Ford items? Thanks

Thats pretty much how mine felt when it had gone. I'm not in the trade no, but I've had a fair bit of experience with a/c systems. Cheers mate - do you know of somewhere local that will do a good job, or is it all something that can be done by a competant home home mechanic? Replacing the compressor looks simple enough. Worried if I take it to a garage they will just bolt a new compressor on and run it up and after a few months the thing will pack up again!! Thanks

Thanks Mirez. I can turn the compressor by rotating the inner section of the pulley. There is resistance but its not consistant and feels a bit rough. Sounds like the compressor then!?! Are you in the trade? I notice you are just up the road from me - I'm in trowbridge. If you are I might put the job your way if interested?? Thanks

Any ideas?????

OK so I've searched the forum and found lots of useful info but could do with more info before I start spending money... Just bought a MkII 2.3 petrol with single aircon (not climate control and no rear vents) so 750 gram system I believe? I took a gamble that the system just needed a regas as the car had been sat around for several months but having had this done the aircon still doesn't work. Got a mate to gas it for free and he added dye to check for leaks also. So on investigation the fuse and the relay are fine and there is 12 volts supply to the compressor but even if I bypass this and put a feed straight from the battery the clutch on the compressor still doesn't engage. There is some evidence of the dye on the compressor by I can decide whether its the compressor leaking or the pipe that runs close to it. I'm a competeant home mechanic but don't have the aircon vacuum / regassing machine but want to do as much myself to save costs....a compressor change seem easy enough, so my question are..... What other tests can I do to confrim the compressor is faulty? (Given the cost I want to be 100% sure) Do the symptoms I describe indicate the compressor? On my mondeo the condesor was leaking but I could still get the compressor to engage by applying 12V direct to it, just wasn't enough gas to run cold cos of the leak) If I chose to replace the compressor myself is there anything I need to worry about? I've read some notes on ensuring the compressor is oiled properly before running and also recommended replacing the reciever drier and the expansion valve due to contamination from the knackered compressor. Is this really necessary? Thanks for any input....wish I checked out galaxy aircon issues before I bought it :ph34r: