dbc

Try reprogramming it first, detail on here if you search but also in hand book. If no good get a used one off ebay.

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=21942&st=0&p=161084&fromsearch=1entry161084 Here you go......!

Could be an electrical fault else where draining the battery slowly. Car batteries don't like a slow discharge and it can damage them. There's a good description on here some where about measuring the current being drawn from the battery and removing fuses one by one to find a faulty circuit....have a search on posts I've replied to as I commented on it. Was a few weeks ago

Or the head gasket has gone and you've got coolant water mixing with the oil.

Anyone know if its possible to recalibrate the parking sensors to take into account a tow bar? Removable hitch's are loads more expensive.... Ta

You can certainly program the remote locking your self. Tells you how in the handbook and also described on the forum. Not sure about the transponder thought. Maybe with vag com

It's amp hours you need to worry about. SHould tell you in the hand book but the higher the better and for the gal I think you want about 60AH battery. Also Halford's batteries are a rip off. Go online and you should get one for almost half.

Normally tells you what the stereo options are in the audio hand book which if you haven't got I'm sure you could fine on line...

The programming sequence can be and arse. I did it a few time's before it worked. Not sure about what you've bought though. Think what I got was off a seat and it was identical other than the logo...

Bloody predictive text...I meant hand book not game book.....?!

Battery shouldn't make too much difference if voltage the same. I think they are just slightly different thickness.... If the light flash when you press the buttons there's power there. Sounds to me like the transmitter isn't working. I had this problem. Programming sequence didn't work but lights flash when button pressed. Look on ebay for a replacement. Make sure its the same type / frequency etc them program as per game book and hey presto..... Worked for me

This post is extremely useful for any one trying to fault find electrical issue. Should be stuck in the useful section. Good job mirez

Hi. Gases in the coolant which I've confirmed with block test unfortunately. The bottom hose mysteriously fell off the rad a while ago while the wife was driving and unfortunately she didn't stop soon enough. So as you say there's good chance the head is cracked too. Was thinking of getting one from a scrapper and recon that first. Gonna torque the head down before I whip it off....

Any one done head gasket on 2.3 MKII? Latest issue with mine....seem to have bought a stinker! If so scale of 1-10 difficulty for a competent diy mechanic? Any tips or things to look out for? Cheers

Funny isn't it. It works so well that I was overly pleased about it! Even spent a while seeing how far it works from.....sad but after having to use the key with a kid in one arm and shopping in the other it really makes a difference.....!

Yes same method. Re the transponder that's just a little black chip that sits inside the key. Just leave that and swap the bit with buttons on. Make sure you buy a replacement with the same make and frequency transmitter. It's written on the key

I had exactly the same. It's the transmitter in the key. Just pick us a new one off the bay, swap the inside into your key and do the reprograming. Cost me less than 20 quid and it works from miles away with the new one. Can't believe I put us with it for so long as it was such a simple fix....

Cheers guys. As I thought ;-)

I have confirmed that my remote is faulty and not the car on my MKII. Can any replacement be reprogrammed to work? There quite a few on ebay including Seat and VW but I want to make sure they'll work. Provided I transfer the transponder for the immobilser as well can I just go through the programming procedure using any other remote fob? Thanks

Cheers guys - as i thought, made perfect sense for it to come on. I also checked the circuit diagrams and looked like from that they should operate...although not noticed them coming on even if the compressor doesn't work...will check that one out Numpty garages....I really do wonder sometimes :rolleyes: If it wasn't for needing a regas I could have avoided the garage which I normally do at all costs!! Irregardless.......I like it ;)

Hi Guys, Can one of you with a MkII 2.3 petrol with A/C NOT Climate Control do me a favour please? With the engine running, bonnet open, turn on your Aircon to blow cold and let me know what the radiator fans do if anything? Very long story with lots of aircon problems which I won't bore your with but having never had it working properly (other than for about 5 mins) I need to know what the cooling fans should do when the Air con is engaged as for the bried period mine was working the fans kicked in which the garged though should not be happening. I however think they should be running the keep the condenser cool........its just whether or not they come on permanently or not????? For those in the know the Diesels may operate the same??? Thanks

Large ring spanner (I think its 21mm) and a good quality allen key with a long bar on it. Spray the hole lot with WD 40 or alike and fill the cups with engine oil for several days before hand to help loosen it up. With a lot of patient, a good assistant and care not to strip the allen key hole it will come off. Top tip - Fill the new cups with grease when fitted - that'll stop any more water getting in and keep everything pristine underneath. OK a bit messy for next time but how many time are you gonna replace the shocks in a car life?

Hi Seat Kid, My symptoms are - If car locked using key all central locking works OK and light on inner door trim flashes fine. LED on key flashes when buttom pressed and battery is new but it doesn't operate remote locking Tried the reprogramming sequence above several time being very particular about it and makes not difference - Light in card doesnt come on after sequence The key has worked previously but was a bit intermittent then stopped working altogether. Do you think this sound like the broken wire issue? Thanks

Could just be a faulty electro clutch. MEasure the resistance across the terminals on the compressor, you should have about 3.8ohms. If not then you can just replace the clutch which is a darn sight cheaper than a new compressor.....

Thanks - seems the clutch is duff then....very annoying on a brand new compressor!! s it possible to get these things refurbished?? Can't find anywhere online thats obvious. Taking into account what you said about checking the resitance in my meter first I end up with 0.1 Ohm's....so no chance of it working...... Hopefully the online shop I got it from will be happy to exchange! Just relieved I didn't get it regassed first. Its only because the clutch was what failed on the original that I though I'd just check it out. Thanks again.