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Thanks for the feedback. I can confirm the problem is the indicator stalk. Replaced under warranty and all sorted.

Hi all. Just picked up a 2012 zetec with aux input. When I connect my phone to play music the audio is very poor. Crackles and not very loud even with phone volume on max. I'll have a go at cleaning the socket but wondered if there is a known issue I can look into before spending hours tracing cables. Thanks

Not been on for a while. Just upgraded my mk2 to a mk3 and got a few teething troubles! When I first unlock the car the drivers side lights come on. Is this normal? I can't decide if both side should come on or none or its supposed to do it as a safety thing to illuminate the car to other road users when you park up. Locking the car turns them off. The other problem is the right indicator seems to randomly come on and I have to cancel it to stop it. I've noticed the slightest of touches can trigger it also but it still comes on by itself. Any clues? Thanks

Haha....thought I had!

Not been on for a while. Just upgraded my mk2 to a mk3 and got a few teething troubles! When I first unlock the car the drivers side lights come on. Is this normal? I can't decide if both side should come on or none or its supposed to do it as a safety thing to illuminate the car to other road users when you park up. Locking the car turns them off. The other problem is the right indicator seems to randomly come on and I have to cancel it to stop it. I've noticed the slightest of touches can trigger it also but it still comes on by itself. Any clues? Thanks

Hi Guys - I've done plenty of searching but not had any luck...MKII 2.3 Engine Management Light is on and giving Fault P1663. When Searching I am getting conflicting results as to what this code means. 1 = P1663 Fuel demand command signal circuit malfunction 2 = P1663 KAM (Keep Alive Memory) Power lost/low Initially when driving today the light came on, I lost all drive, the rev counter went to zero. But when I depressed the clutch it all cleared and the car felt OK. This happended 5-6 times during a long journey but I managed to get there. When I started the car to return, it fired up no problem but as soon as I touched the throttle the engine cut out. After this it would not turn over. All the controls worked and the dash lights were on but it was as if the battery was totally flat. I Checked all the fused and reseated all the Relays and the car started again. Only now I have an engine management light on giving P1663. It doesn't come on immediately, it takes about 10 seconds but it does come on every time. Strangly the car now appears to drive perfectly OK although I drove home at max 60mph and took it really steady so not sure if its OK under load. Any help gratefully received. Thanks

Door pillar wire. Look in how tos

Note the typo in the subject.....I meant unlocks but doesn't lock!

So the remote fob unlocks the car fine but it will not lock it! The light flashes when the button is pressed and its locks find using the key in the door and the alarm arms. Pretty sure its not door pillar wires as that would cause maybe one door to not lock (recently had this issue). Any ideas? Thanks

I've had this of 2 out of 4 doors now....just waiting for the other to go! I always solder an extra length of wire in, about 2 inchs just to give that extra slack....

Jeez, that's steep! I got mine off ebay for 90 quid new. Single electrics with fixed ball. I had to angle the electric socket braket back a little bit so it didn't affect parking and took half a day to fit by myself

Almost certainly wires in door gaiter...

Agreed. Ford have changed the pully to a metal one as the plastic ones don't last too well. As mentioned don't get ripped off buying a new tensioner assembly. The idler pulley can be used to replace the tensioner pulley....

The 2.3 motor is pretty tough. The bottom hose came of the rad when my missus was driving mine and she drove it for a few miles not realising until it started to seize and smell hot!! Filled it up with water and ran it for several months OK. The head gasket had a minor leak and eventually got round to taking the head of getting it skimmed and a new gaskets kit. Been good as gold since. As other have said, plug out as a first port of call.....

Drain from the bottom hose on the radiator. When refilling there is no bleed screw. I've done it several times mine and bar far the best method is to fill REEEAAAALLLLLYYYYYY slowly and whilst you're filling give all the hose a good squeeze to help pump any air out. I use a large plastic jug with a handle so I can control the flow. Probably over kill but I have had lots of issues with mine. It also takes a few days to settle and will most likely need a little bit of a top up.

Yes ^+1 as above. Happened to me a few weeks back and 2 wires in the drivers door to pillar consuit had broken. Theres a guide to fix on the FAQ section on here Bit fiddly to repair as not much space but I soldered a short extra length of wire in to give some flexibilty

Haynes don't do one. They did for MK1 but which covers some of the Mk2 stuff but not all. You can get the Ford TIS - Technical Infomation System CD Rom off Ebay which covere everything. I personally find it difficult to follow and find info I'm looking for, expecially around electrical stuff but its all in there. Normally just a few pounds so worth getting one. I don't think there are any other offerings

Well, turned out the timing was out!! :) The TIS assembly guide is really poorly written and contradicts itself hence ingnoring it and trying to set up using logic.......that'll learn me! All good now ;)

Yeah you're right - The 2.3 has a plastic coolant out let on the end of the head with temp sensor fitted and it look just like the sort of place a thermostate would be fitted but in actual fact it in the pipework of the pipes that come from the outlet. Quite obvious to see when you know its not in the plastic bit. the plastic house is prone to leaking so try to avoid taking that off if its ok. You shouldnt need to to get to the stat.

Don't let that fool you. Mine was a 60k 2.3 with full history......you wouldn't believe the trouble I have had with this car!! My head gasket went but it went between coolant and cylinder so no oil in water or visa versa. What I did get though was a lot of pressure in the coolant so the pipes were very heard to touch, I.E. couldn't squeeze them very easily but even with that although there was clearly a release of pressure when I took the cap off it didn't spray out all over the place. Does sound more like a temp sensor or stat issue. Have you got an OBDII fault code reader? If you had an engine light on it should give you a code. I just picked one up of ebay for

So, just out the motor back together after replacing the head gasket and reconditioning the head. Fired up first time, sounded horrendous whilst waiting for the hydraulic tappets to refill with oil (!!!) but once settle all seems well....except.... When idling it runs a quite rough and is quite juddery. If I pick the revs up to 1000rpm she runs sweet as a nut and in all other driving conditions seems to be absolutely fine. My initial thoughs were something not connected back up but all seems OK next is the IAC valve (Idle Air Control) but I'd have though if this was faulty it would more likely be idling fast. A mechanic friend suggested cleaning out the EGR Valve but I'm not sure if the 2.3 petrol has one? Don'recall seeing / removing one when doing the head. Does this model have an EGR and is so where is it!!?? Any other suggestions welcome Thanks

I'm currently in the process of replacing the head gasket on my MKII 2.3. Its a totally different engine but to give you an idea it depends on so many different things..... Its very time intensive - probably looking at a day to get it off a day to over haul and a day to put it back together so at normal garage rates of

Agreed. However on mine it was actually the shock that had gone giving a rattling over bumps. Bounce it up and down on each corner to see if it settles ok. Should pretty much settle straight away

I've refilled mine loads after various problems. There's no specific bleeding method. Best bet is to fill it super slowly with pauses to let it settle as you go. Plus give the large hose that come off the cylinder head a good few squeezes as you go. You'll hear air a bubbling through. Can't emphasise enough though about doing it slowly!