tim-spam

Just one more point regarding 'saving money': Oil change every 3000 miles at

[i'm trying to give good advice here, and you're just trying to score stupid tech points.] Rubbish! You may be trying to give good advice, but that does not make you right! Synthetic oil is not 'just a mineral oil', but is synthetically produced (that's why it's referred to as 'synthetic'). In Germany, where all of these engines were designed and developed, the vast majority of cars use synthetic oil. Read your owners handbook (produced by the engine manufacturers). One of the benefits of synthetic oils is that oil consumption is reduced (unless of course it's very low to start with, in which case it will just stay that way) - FACT. However, I do agree that regular oil and filter changes are important, but every 2.5 - 3k????? Good advice????? What do others on this forum think? By the way, I change the oil on my wife's Merc 190D every 6000 miles (according to the manufacturer's instructions), and this has done over 300,000 miles. Each oil / filter change costs around

Actually, oil consumption goes down if anything. A 5W40 oil means that it is a 5 weight oil at 0 degC and a 40 weight oil at 110 degC, and the relationship between temperature and viscosity is roughly linear. This means that, at normal running temperature, the viscosity of a 5W40 oil is at least as high as for a conventional oil. In addition, a synthetic oil retains its viscosity profile far, far better than a conventional mineral oil. A regular cheap 15W40 is more like a 'straight' 15 weight oil at oil change time. Oil consumption also depends upon more than just the viscosity, although having the correct viscosity is obviously a factor. Using a good quality synthetic oil is probably a good investment, and the (slight) improvement in fuel consumption may offset, or even exceed, the increased price of the oil. In addition, engine wear will be reduced - this is established fact. By the way, 63 bhp/litre is a fairly high specific power output when compared with older engines for which more basic oils were originally designed. However, the choice is yours.

The manufacturer's towing limit for the TDI is 2000kg, which, as the car weighs just over 1700kg, is probably a little on the high side. For stability reasons, it is advisable to stick to around 1500kg - my caravan is around 1300kg laden and the stability is really very good. I think tha manufacturers' towing limits tend to be set by the ability to restart on a 1 in 6 hill, but I guess it's all a bit academic, because on real roads, traction is probably the limiting factor. Oh no!!!! I've probably just started a 2WD vs 4WD argument.

MrT, I never claimed that a TDI would tow a caravan more quickly than a VR6 - a VR6 would definitely be able to pull a caravan at a higher speed than a TDI, as it has more power, but in the real world where a TDI can easily cruise at 70+ mph with caravan in tow, that is of academic interest only. As regards gear ratios, I think you will find that there is little difference between a VR6 and TDI in the lower ratios, so the TDI would pull away more easily and with far less clutch slip required. In addition, so long as the engine is running at around 2000 rpm, there would be less need to change down a gear for climbing. Another way of looking at it would be to consider climbing a steep hill in 2nd gear whilst towing: a VR6 would rev to 6000+ rpm, comfortably leaving a TDI behind revving at 4000 rpm, but if you had to stop, a TDI would be easier to restart. I think my GCSE in Physics is quite safe. In reality, both the TDI and VR6 make excellent tow cars (I have tried both, by the way), but the main difference is economy - my TDI does 27 mpg with the caravan in tow, cruising at around 70 mph in 5th (6th is usable, but pointless, as it is a little too high for towing).

Who's over a barrel? Loads of manufacturers make oil to VW505.01 - just try a Google search. Prices vary from around

As for pulling caravans, it's torque that matters and not power. TDI - 310Nm at 1900rpm, VR6 - 270Nm at 3000ish rpm. Stick with the diesel.

Forget all about t-map sensors, etc.. One of the joints between the turbo outlet and inlet manifold has blown off - probably due to some service clown having removed it and not refitted it properly. The noise you get is induction roar and sounds not unlike a blowing exhaust - remember that a diesel works with no throttle, so induction noise is generally louder than on a petrol engine. Just locate the joint affected, inspect for damage, and if undamaged, refit ensuring that the hose concerned is properly located and the clip properly seated.

DIY - it's the only way.

Probably torque related - TDI = 240 Nm (90PS) or 310 Nm (all PD engines), and VR6 = 270 Nm. All other petrol engines produce way, way less than this.

Is this 'chunky' tubing the charge air pipe by any chance? If it is, and if it's loose, you will be losing turbo boost pressure and a lot of power with it - all the joints should be tight and airtight.

The problem with the 'split belt' technique is that it does not allow for changing the tensioner. In addition, it is advisable to follow the instructions regarding loosening of the cam pulley bolts - this allows the pulley to rotate slightly to remove the tension from the tight side of the belt to ease fitment without rotating the crank or cam which should be locked in position anyway. This will also ensure that the timing is not affected by any slight variation in belt length.

Could you post a picture with it fitted when you get it? Thanks.

Because they're ripping owners of 'more expensive' cars off, and they charge extra for bending the sills and the time taken deciding which parts to 'forget' to fit such as undertray fasteners.

After having bought Castrol TXT 505.01 in France, I emailed Castrol to ask about a UK equivalent and where to buy it, and according to them, Halfords sell Castrol 505.01 oil. However, I have only ever seen Castrol Longlife II 506.01 at Halfords, and that is

Funnily enough, having owned and used cars/vans with sliding doors, I much prefer ordinary hinged opening doors - after all, if you're too close to open a door, you're probably too close to get in and out anyway, and the front doors will still be hinged. As regards cam chains, if these are properly designed, they will last longer than belts, BUT, when they do need changing, the work and cost involved is much greater - I know, because my Merc 190D chain needed replacing at around 200,000 miles. Also, belts are quieter.

You could try measuring the manifold pressure independently with a manometer, and comparinf this to what the TMAP sensor is telling you. I don't know if there's a suitable tapping point already there, or if you would have to drill one - you would then of course have to plug the hole afterwards. Anyway, it would seem to me that after having read several posts on this topic, independently measuring the boost pressure would confirm whether or not an overboost is happening or whether the sensors are misreading. This would help to eliminate / confirm the diagnosis.

Facelifted models have servo motors, not cables. So, it depends on whether or not Danyoda1's car is post 2000 or not.

Johnb80, what you said implied that the CC has servo motor driven heater flaps, etc., which would need to be added to a non-CC equipped car. What I said was simply that the car has servo motor driven heater flaps etc. whether or not CC is fitted. In other words, the conversion would not require these things to be added. What would be needed of course would be all of the sensors, wiring, software mods and panel.

Just one more thing to add - the heater flaps, etc. are all driven by electric servo motors whether CC is fitted or not.

If yours is a facelifted model, disconnecting even a failed MAF will make the car run worse (unless it's completely failed, in which case it will remain the same), so this is not a definitive test. My approach would be that at 65k miles it's probably due for a change anyway, so just do it and see - it only costs around

The only problem with the dealers fitting a new unit free is that they'll probably balls it up - if your heater is working well, why risk changing it?

Although a bit out of sequence on this thread, an update on the general hesitation and flat spot problems between 2000 and 3000 rpm on my 115 TDI. I checked all vacuum hoses and all was OK, checked the turbo boost pressure with a manometer, and that seemed OK. As I said before, so long as the accelerator pedal was moving, there was reasonable acceleration. Anyway, the new MAF arrived from GSF on Saturday and this has fixed all of the problems - goes better than ever now. It appears that the later engines rely much more on the MAF for the fuel mapping than earler ones. Some people have reported that disconnecting their faulty MAF on earler engines improved performance, confirming the diagnosis of MAF problems. Disconnecting mine resulted in performance so feeble that for it to be any worse with the MAF reconnected, it would have required a yellow flashing light to be road legal. In other words, just because the performance may be worse with the MAF disconnected does not rule out the MAF as the cause of poor performance. I'm also hoping that the fuel economy will return to 40+ MPG - over the last couple of months it has steadily dropped from around 41 MPG to 36 MPG (pretty much in line with the drop in performance).

Although I once saw a Transit van that appeared to have an LPG filling point on the side - I guess the driver justed answered, "No.", when asked at the check-in.

LPG fuelled vehicles are not allowed to use the cross-channel shuttle.