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tim-spam

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Everything posted by tim-spam

  1. tim-spam
    Did I? Oh dear...
  2. tim-spam
    And me...
  3. tim-spam
    Well, you live and learn...
  4. tim-spam
    The main thing that points to the clutch being the problem is that it goes into reverse OK when the engine is not running. What happens if you select a forward gear first and then quickly try to select reverse? The reasoning behind my question is that on the VAG 6-speed gearbox, all the gears have synchromesh, including reverse, but the synchromesh is not so strong on reverse as it is on the forward gears. Basically, if the input shaft is still spinning due to a slight clutch drag, the synchromesh will prevent gear selection until it has stopped the input shaft from turning. It may be that the reverse gear synchromesh is not strong enough to stop the input shaft from turning, hence preventing gear selection. However, if you select a forward gear, the input shaft should have been stopped by this, and if you can select reverse before it starts turning again, it should select fairly easily. If reverse did not have synchromesh, a dragging clutch would simply cause the gears to 'crunch'. One more thing to try is bleeding the clutch - air in the system could be causing incomplete release.
  5. tim-spam
    Yes, but unfortunately some have been abusing it of late... I would guess that when things have settled down a bit, this feature may be lifted? However, anyone who wants to can always join the forum, so, in this respect it is still open to all. There is an absolute wealth of information in this forum, and for most things to do with the Galaxy, Sharan and Alhambra is unmatched anywhere else, so it is well worth joining. For things specific to the VW TDI engines, I have found Fred's TDI page and the Ross-Tech forum very good sources of information and a good complement to this forum. For example, I have found details of VNT issues, VAGCOM codes, alternator pulley issues and many others, on one of these two forums, although neither of them is as easy to search as this one.
  6. tim-spam
    What went wrong with the engine when it 'blew up'?
  7. tim-spam
    I just hope VW doesn't make the same mistake with the new Sharan.... That's assuming you can get the tyre you want at a price that suits on the Monday. I usually buy my tyres from one of the internet based suppliers - with a proper spare, I would have the time to still do this, and get a matching tyre at a far lower price than having to take what's available locally on the day.
  8. tim-spam
    Just checking -
  9. tim-spam
    Both springs should be changed - changing one only is not acceptable, and could even be dangerous. Same is true of shock absorbers and brake pads.
  10. tim-spam
    Yes, I agree that there are good and bad in all cars (even Japanese), but look also at the poll on how members rate their car - over 88% would buy another, and 65% have had to spend less than
  11. tim-spam
    Well, I've just replaced the front pads on mine as the light came on about 2 weeks ago. The manual states that the discard thickness is 2mm and the minimum permissible pad thickness is 1mm. After changing them, I measured the old pads, and the minimum pad thickness was 4mm. In other words, you could probably drive several thousand miles after the warning light comes on and still have some pad material left. By the way, I could tell that the pads had been changed before, because, as usual, the main agent had not done the job properly. Firstly, the backing paper on the outer pads had not been removed, and secondly, the electrical connector to the wear sensor had been damaged by the spanner monkey doing the job. So, this is yet another problem caused by the full dealer service history to be added to the list. Are there any competent people in the service departments of the main agents??
  12. tim-spam
    Mine fit fine - they appear to be perfectly vertical when fitted, and, although the car still gets dirty at the back, it does so much more slowly, and there is no longer the large build-up of mud on the sides of the rear bumper.
  13. tim-spam
    The Mazda would be the best bet for reliability and quality, leading to much lower running costs. If it was my money, I'd go for the Mazda - great fun as well.
  14. tim-spam
    Yes, but your previous car was the most complex version of a car in its first year of production, and was 10 years old, and you are comparing it with a more basic car which is barely 2 years old - for heaven's sake, it should be more reliable (even if it is a Citroen). If reliability is at the very top of your priority list, why on earth did you buy a Citroen? Japanese would have been a hugely more rational choice. By the way, if you had bought my diesel Alhambra, you would have been well pleased - it has now covered 85000 miles and has proven to be extremely reliable and vitually trouble free.
  15. tim-spam
    One more thing - the legal maximum weight a car can tow is the weight it has been Type Approved to tow. In the case of the Galaxy TDI, this is 2000kg - scary...
  16. tim-spam
    You never know...
  17. tim-spam
    For just over
  18. tim-spam
    The kerb weight of a Galaxy LX TDI = 1724kg (higher spec models will be heavier). 1 tonne = 0.984 tons. Therefore the kerb weight of a Galaxy LX TDI = 1.697 tons and the recommended towing limit = 1.442 tons.
  19. tim-spam
    You're right, but a Galaxy weighs more than 1.5 tonnes, so towing 1.5 tonnes with a Galaxy is not illegal. However, the maximum recommended towing weight is less than or equal to 85% of the car's kerb weight. Most Galaxies weigh around 1700kg, which gives a maximum recommended towing weight of 1445kg. By the way, who did say that they stopped quicker whilst towing? My information is that it takes around 20% longer to stop from the same speed when towing a caravan than when driving solo.
  20. tim-spam
    That certainly seems excessive. Is the engine running smoothly and the pulleys running true - if they are, then it would point to a weak tensioner. Another possibility is the main crank pulley / vibration damper.
  21. tim-spam
    If you quote the engine type code (probably AUY) and year of manufacture, GSF will be able to supply one to you through the post.
  22. tim-spam
    If your alternator pulley is OK, then the noise is most likely due to a weak tensioner - how much movement is there when the engine is idling?
  23. tim-spam
    Good buy by the sound of things - welcome back. Getting the diesel was a very wise choice - just look at the problems another member is having selling their 2.3....
  24. tim-spam
    It's not.
  25. tim-spam
    Your problem was caused by a tyre that was either too old, damaged, faulty, of insufficient load capacity or under-inflated, and whilst failure would have happened more quickly at 70 mph than 60 mph, it would still have eventually failed at the lower speed. For safety's sake, fit tyres of the correct load rating, properly inflated and change them at least every five years. Slowing down a bit is not good enough.
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