Masked Marauder

The woman who lives next door to me does home-working. Her boss bought a Sharan, took all the seats out of the back and used it as a van. Three years later when he sold it the residuals were proportionally much higher than a second hand van. So the number of seats is totally irrelevant to how much work it has done. That one was worked to hell but had an immaculate rear interior. But in short, you can take seats out if you don't need them, but you can't put them in if you need them and don't have them.

Steve, did it have an after-running pump, is so do you still have it?

There really is no need for wear indicators if you service your car regularly anyway, but as said above if the disc is worn, then the lip of the disc can cut through the wire prematurely.

The airbag needs reset with VAG-COM or similar, if you post your location there may be someone who can help who uses the forums.

Yes. Unless you have anything with a 4 digit key programming number written on it.

None at all. Indeed if you hit your sump plug your already in very big trouble....

It is indeed, it is at the middle back at the lowest point.

Sounds like a failing after-running pump. Does it have one?

Mine sits flush to the actual sump, but there is a plastic sump protector on it too.

The alarm also has it's own horn, simply pull the connector off.

Well the guy is at least being up-front about it, suggesting that originally he did not know that there had been changes to the heaters and plugs.

No, the non-PD engines have a drain plug that is 16mm long.

It is a straight cut, 22mm long, M14, with a 1.5 thread pitch. And my guess is he wants one drilled and tapped for an oil temperature sender.

Better with heat-shrink tubing than insulating tape.

You need a chip to go in the key, or a new key with the chip in. Then using VAG-COM get the immobiliser serial number and take it with your log book to your dealer and ask them for the 4 digit immobiliser code. Then using VAG-COM program the new key. The other way is to take it to a dealer and ask them to program it or a specialist locksmith may be able to help.

Dual Mass Flywheel coming to bits?

Well with all of them the installation is a little long winded. Let me see what I can sort out.

eMule. http://www.emule-project.net/home/perl/general.cgi?l=1 But take care! some zips are password protected. Avoid the SEAT one that has PWE=Cedric in the name. The password is most definatley not Cedric!

Thanks for that, you have made my day! Does the kit you bought use a secondary battery?

Try having an assistant pull the lever whilst you pull up on the bonnet. If that works then adjust the rubber bonnet stops that are either end of the slam bar.

If you can hang it out to quarter of an hour you can book it as a break on your tachograph......

I think all the rear bumpers are the same chap.....

I have been looking into DIYing this. It seems simple enough but there are a few minor problems. I need a metering pump to play with. I need to know if the standard one actually pumps or just meters pre-pumped fuel. The Ford TIS suggests that it is pre-pumped fuel as it says it is in the return pipe, the Elsawin SEAT says it is on the feed pipe, so would need to pump on it's own! Basically if the metering pump is a pump, to make it run timed you need a second battery or battery saver, split charge relay, timer, pump (some cars will have this, you can use the after running pump) and a few relays and diodes.

You just need the Immobiliser ID number and then they can generate the 4 digit immobiliser programming code. Once you have that you use the workshop interface or VAG-COM to program the keys.

Agreed. I have downloaded a SEAT Elsawin but it is not complete, there are chunks missing, and it is still more comprehensive than the Ford TIS. Downloading the 7 VW data CDs at the moment....