Masked Marauder

You should have tried running Whore 1.0, it is on a pay per use basis and will always work out cheaper in the long run.

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After having their 11th child, a Liverpool couple decided that was enough, as the social wouldn't buy them a bigger bed and they weren't strong enough to nick one. The husband went to his doctor and told him that he and his wife didn't want to have any more children. The doctor told him there was a procedure called a vasectomy that would fix the problem but it was expensive. A less costly alternative was to go home, get a firework, light it, put it in a beer can, then hold the can up to his ear and count to 10. The Scouser said to the doctor, "I may not be the smartest guy in the world, but I don't see how putting a firework in a beer can next to my ear is going to help me." "Trust me, it will do the job", said the doctor. So the man went home, lit a banger and put it in a beer can. He held the can up to his ear and began to count: "1, 2, 3, 4, 5," at which point he paused, placed the beer can between his legs so he could continue counting on his other hand. This procedure allegedly also works in Birmingham, parts of Essex, Newcastle, Manchester, and anywhere in Wales.

Inside the heater is a flame deflector strainer. Now I have NOT had a heater in bits that small. HOWEVER, if it works the same way as the diesel fired washers we use at work then that will be a metal gauze. When the heater first fires it runs on the plug, but the gauze becomes red hot and the plug cuts out, but the gauze keeps the fuel burning. So if the gauze is burnt or corroded away then after the plug goes off there will be nothing to keep the fuel burning. an exploded diagram will follow.....

I have a rattle around both nearside doors, I have looked everywhere for it!

Has to be the connector I would guess, as the resistor pack is connected directly to the fan so should not effect the aircon light.

It will pump fuel when it tries to start. It is only when it fails to start that the test won't work, and the flame check takes about 90 seconds before it is carried out.

Did I miss something? I must get my Ai606 out my shed and fit it to something....

You won't be able to change the tumblers. Your options are: Buy and fit a whole new lock set and: take the PATS chip out of your current key and put it into one of the new keys and have a dealer program the other keys up as and when it is in for other work or take the PATS chip out and tape it to the top of the ignition barrel or Try to obtain the PATS pasword number (a four digit code that MAY have come with the car on a scratch off tab or on the car paperwork) from a dealer and use VAG-COM to program the new keys.

Check all the vacuum pipes to the turbo etc. Check the manifold pressure sensor in the thick plastic induction pipe on the top right of the engine. Take the clip out and remove it and check the sensor is not oiled up.

First stop, check the pump. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...indpost&p=46426 There is no point in getting into ripping the heater apart if the pump is running over pressure or something.

Chances are it will start on it's own. You will just have to try a few times to get fuel through. As far as spare pump goes, I can't help you with that.

Too late for you now, but Vectra brake servo assistance is adjustable by changing the length of the servo push rod.

The correct servo test is: Turn on the engine and let it run for a few seconds. Turn off the engine. Press the brake pedal. If it is hard it is an MOT fail. If it is soft you pump the pedal until it becomes hard. Leave your foot pressed down on the brakes and check the pedal does not sink slowly. Keep the pedal pressed and start the engine. The pedal should now fall slightly and stop. If it does not fall or goes to the floor it is a fail.

That is what I ment above Steve, it should be pin 7 on the connector. Still a violet wire.

The metering pump seems the same too.

The original "D" plug is the same, but some of the wires do different things with the unit that has the clock function, but it will still work.

Would yours originally have had a D3W heater Dave, or would it have been a 5Kw? As for the ignition problem it should be an easy fix using little more than a minture 12v relay and the alternator feed already present. But if your not bothered then it is not an issue.

The wiring and plugs are pretty much the same, the only problems you could come across is that timed ones have a pump that needs to be connected, however someone put a 12v bulb in and that made his work, so I am sure that a resistor would work, and I don't know if the metering pump is the same, but I will check for you.

Not all the MK1s had it. You can splice into one of the wires on the dash connector instead. It is pin 7 and it is a violet coloured wire. I have just checked my wiring diagram and on some models it shows the wire going to a radio ISO connecter in the centre of the dash as a .5mm violet wire and post connector to the radio as being a .5mm RED wire

Yep. But it depends on whether high output or low and how old the car is. What year was your car built? The early model has a 3kw booster and uses 0.4 of a litre an hour on high output and 0.19 of a litre an hour on low output. The 5kwh unit uses 0.67 of a litre/hour of fuel on high output and 0.31 of a litre an hour on low output.

Reconing a turbo is very specialist job. Indeed many people think a new turbo is the only really cost-effective way of doing it. I have seen some very good reconditioned turbos but even those then only lasted a year or so before they failed again.

Yes they are the same.

I doubt it..... But I will try to find out tomorrow.