f0ster

if the smoke is coming from the exhaust then the problem is the engine, you said it was vibrating on tick over, this points to an injector not atomizing the fuel or possibly slightly low compression on one cylinder, diesel will only burn when the correct temperature is reached and the fuel is atomised correctly

it is most likely the brushes worn out and no longer contacting the armature, I got a brush set from fleebay complete with mounting plate £14.00, it can be fitted without removing the starter

it is usually the hand brake lever that seizes up, they are quite easy to overhaul, just squire some brake fluid under the gaiter then screw out the piston, all you need next is circlip pliars to get the circlip out of the bottom, the seals don`t take any hurt as long as they look ok they will go back without any problem.

it is a job that can be quite involved, I presume you have a diesel, if you have not done one before there is a lot of things that can go wrong, there are quite a few special tools that are required as well, the job can be done without these tools but it is harder and only for someone who has done one before, if in dought about the timing of the pulleys then put your own marks on the pulleys before you strip it down, and the golden rule, turn it over by hand before operating the starter, and check for tight spots as you turn, you might want to carefully examine the water pump when it is apart,

hello you need to determine if it is the cables sticking or the handbrake levers on the calipers, loosen off the handbrake adjuster under the car where two cables go in to one, you can then pop the cable out of the caliper lever and try operating the caliper levers on their own, if they are returning on their own fully then the cables are starting to stick, if not then a caliper is starting to stick.

Hello I had the same year and model of galaxy with the exact same fault, it occours because the ecu is detecting overboost, I was lucky enough to be working in mazda garage at the time, the mazda diagnostic machine was the same as the ford one, so we were able to view all of the parameters while driving, it turned out the boost pressure was fluctuating which would then occasionally take it over the top which was picked up by the ecu,the ecu would then go in to limp home mode, this can be reset by backing off the throttle and back on, on later ones you have to switch off the ignition, there is a pipe that goes from the manifold to the ecu that is behing the drivers instrument panel, the cure is not always easy, if you can get a maf sensor to swop with someone try that first,the boost pressure pipes can get blocked with oil that stops it getting clean signals,I checked the waste gate on mine and it was operating ok,the power is controlled by the waste gate hovering in mid position when the power gets up near the limit,I cannot remember if the waste gate is controlled by pressure or vacuum,

from the back, go under the left hand rear quarter trim panel with your wire, tuck it under the bottom edge,out of sight, then across to the door step trim panels for both the rear and the front doors, you dont need to remove them, tuck the wire up under the bottom edge, carry on up to the front ,

Hello does it sound normal when cranking over, when they have no compression or if the valve timing is out they sound different when cranking over, if ok then check if it is injecting any fuel, crack the injector pipes loose and spin it over, is there any fuel squirting out from under the pipe nuts, you might have to double check the valve and pump timing settings, autodata has an A4 print out of the belt layout if you have access to the program, if not I can email you a print, take off the inlet pipe to the manifold, and listem when cranking over, can you hear air escaping when it goes over compression, do the same at the exhaust,

does it get worse as you load up the steering, if so it sounds like the steering pump has bit the dust, this sort of noise is usually there when the fluid is low, could be the pump front seal drawing in air airating the oil, not sure if it is fixable apart from replace the pump

Hello I had exactly the same problem with mine x reg sharan, lucky for me all three broken parts of the ring were still there, so I mig welded them back togerther to form a ring again, then I had to remove all of the rust from the surface that it slips on to, a lash over with a coat of paint and all is well, I think they are available seperate on fleabay

hello could be the boost control circuit, the vac pipes get blocked with oil and the boost control then cannot respond fast enough and it over shoots, causing the ecu to register excess boost and shut down in to safe mode, start with the cheap stuff like all the vac pipes, then the n75 valve

hello I fitted one to mine, it had a sun roof as well, you need a reinforcer above the headlining that goes across the top of the headlining from side to side, there is a bit too much weight for the head lining to take after a while it starts to sag, I made a hole in the middle of the location of the player, just large enough to take the cables feeding it, any other holes required are just small screw holes, when you are finished with the vehicle you can buy a cheap interior light to cover the large hole or use a large trim panel fastener, the small ones blend not too bad

you can eliminate fuel running back by clamping shut the fuel feed and return hoses with pipe clamps or vice grips, (get it running ok first)leave it over night like this, remove the clamps and see how it starts,

the oil level isnt increasing is it

severe shortage of info here

Hello first of all you need to see exactly how much power is being consumed, I know of a few manufacturers who claim up to 130ma is ok and that after a fortnight the battery will be incapable of starting the car, connect a multi meter in series with the battery lead,(be carefull not to break the connection as you do it,) when the car is parked and locked you will see what power is being consumed, I had a case of an air con relay stuck shut that caused power drain, not excessive, but enough to cause a problem, when you have seen what is being drained you can isolate the circuit from the fuse box

Hello when it was regassed, did they add some uv dye to the charge, if they did then with the aid of a uv light the leak will be very obvious.

hello changing the oil in an auto is never very successfull due to the fact that they can quite often hold 12/15 litres but when you drain the box you only get out half if you are lucky, in austrailia they use a charging station, you connect it up to the oil cooler pipes and it does the rest , we devised our own method, buy a 25 litre drum of auto box oil, remove the oil cooler pipe from the radiator and let the engine tick over, while it is slowly pumping out the oil from the pipe, you keep topping it up via the fill pipe/hole this way you get the oil changed completly, it uses more oil this way but you get the oil clean, you then drop the oil pan and replace the filter, and you have new oil and a new filter, it is a bit long winded but autos fail because they never get their oil changed fully

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279592 I think this might be what you are looking for

hello I have had this on an earlier model galaxy, it was caused by the boost control circuit, mainly the vacume pipes that control the boost were partially blocked by oil, also the n75 valve, replacing all pipes and valve cured it, not saying this will cure yours but there you are.

hello what you are trying to diagnose is very difficult, your car will either be, overheating and then blowing out the water or blowing out the water then overheating, the first one is blocked rad or possible some of the faults already mentioned by others, the second is gasket failure, it sounds like your car is pressurising, caused by a head gasket or a cracked head, if it is building up pressure in the cooling system from a head gasket then the pressure will rise very quickly, the pressure in the cooling system rises because of the water heating up and expanding, what you have to find out, is it building up quicker than normal, it is much easier with a pressure gauge on the header tank, you can then give it a good rev and watch the gauge, release the pressure and try again, if the head or gasket has gone you will get a quick build up of pressure, usually within a few seconds, on other vehicles you can see a constant stream of bubbles comming out of the top of the radiator because of gasker failure, on these engines this is not possible because of the bleed pipe comming from the top hose to the top of the header tank, one thing, if your can has lived its life in a hard water area the rad could be blocked with lime scale, I have seen engines wrecked because of this, the temp just keeps on rising, and after all who watches their gauge constantly,

you need a circuit tester, then use the 7 pin socket wiring diagram available all over the internet connect up each circuit in turn, you are supposed to have a warning light that flashes only when the trailer is connected and working, another way is to get an in line buzzer that is wired in line with the flasher circuits to the tow bar, when the trailer is drawing power the buzzer makes a noise