GaryM

If the layout is the same for all diesels (and I dont see why not) then it is 2/3rd's of the way down the back of the engine and the bulkhead. It is just about reachable from the L/H side. The job is made easeir by removing the plastic top cover and foam sound proofing. As you can tell I'm no expert but further reseach confirms that varible vane turbos do not have a wastgate. As the pressure in them is controlled by changing the angle of the vanes inside which is what I think I have on my 115bhp tdi?

Checked the codes... - knackered front mid left parking sensor, knew about that. - Inermittant fault with interior motion sensors, knew about that but never investigated it. - Intermittant adaptation limit surpassed on the key?? Never seen that, guess it thinks there is an issue reading the security code from the key? - Lower limit exceeded on terminal 30 of the air conn? Seen that b4 too but have ignored it. And the ones of interest... - MAF Implausible signal, intermittent. This has only appeared with the new MAF but the syptoms are the same with or without out just a whole lot more pronounced. - Brake switch implausible signal, intermittent. Have had this for a while now and it seems to trigger the MIL light. It is a common issue documented elsewhere here and has been heaps better since I changed the brake switch but what are the other causes?

Intresting... Would that not cause errors to be logged in the ECU? Have you changed the throttle yet? I have access to a scan tool and reset all codes yesterday so that I could see what has been logged recently. As described it is a very definate trip and when it happens I don't loose power as such it just wont go any faster I'll download the codes later when the wife has finished with the car tonight.

Yep that experience and several of my own is exactly the reason I don't want a dealer to look at it even part of me says if nothing else they should have plenty experience :D :blink: I'm convinced it is some form of management issue / sensor. The other think I have noticed is that it takes about 7 seconds of acceleration to show the fault. So this might be why it does not show up in the lower gears so much as you normally shift sooner than this. BTW I have a variable vane turbo so I don't think there is a waste gate and I have checked the vaccum pipes to there.

I've posted on this subject b4 but never really identified what is up with my Galaxy, since purchase I was never convinced it was performing as it should. And several steps have taken all of which have made it feel better, new air filter, EGR cleaning, Intake manifold cleaning, EGR recalibration etc. Along the way the MAF has always been in the back of my mind, but outright cost has meant that I only wanted to change it if I had too. All posts seem to suggest that if disconnection results in poorer performance then it is OK and hence I thought mine was OK. After managing to purchase on on eBay for

Ivor, the Speaker grilles are held on from the inside of the panel so prising them off is not the best approach. The grilles have long pegs that poke through the door card. These are then melted (welded) over to form a kind of rivet. You might be able to prise them off but I would think that you are more likely to crack them. However if you do get them off just superglue them back on.

Good luck Matt, Can be fun. The door card (and I mean card!) is held on by horible pop clips around the perimiter and two screws under the door handle. Remove these first and then prise the cover off by starting at the bottom outside corner. There is a proper tool for the job a bit like a two pronged fork. While poping the clips there is a good chance that you will break a few so get some spares from your dealer first. Once you have it all unclipped it will be hanging from the top along the window, a sharp tug up will release it. You may well also find that one or two of the mounting posts have pulled away from the card and you can just glue (hot melt) these back on. Time for a Rant... Ford did not give any thought to speaker placement or design. In fact I would augue did thier upmost best to find the worst place. Especially as the doors have loads of space in them. They are 6.5" speakers (standard so far) that they choose to place over the running gear for the window. This severly limits the depth that you have for "real" speakers. To overcome this Ford chose to design a new speaker with inverted surrounds rather that move it. Why?! Then because this was not C**P enough they then (on the newer models) cover half the speaker with plastic as the grille does not line up with the speaker. If you want a hidden install this limits your choice, however if you are prepared to place a spacer plate between the door card and frame and mount the speakers on the top of the card you will have a lot more choice. As yet I have not replaced the speakers yet but I do like my sounds and so I'm planning to look at this later. Especially as my Alpine HU and DVD install are so limited by them.

Thanks Ivor, took a trawl through the sight and found the exact same picture in this post; "Red Dust Around Cam Pully, cam belt change" In this it looks a though the consensus is just ignore it?

According the service records the car missed its 60K service (when the belt is changed I think). We have only had this car for a few months and was planning to get it changed at the 80K service just to be sure. Decided to change the brake fluid today so took a quick look at the cam belt and took a photo of what I found... Red dust, mainly at the top. Guess a bearing is on the way out. Is this common / easy to fix? Also you can see the crank case vent (CCV) in the backgound weaping gunge and seeing the same around the intercooler so that is due for a clean. Just wondering, anyone fitted a CCV filter of any kind? It has been mention a bit over at www.tdiclub.com.

At those costs it has already paid for my investment in VAG-COM and a the OBD lead. So if you don't mind getting your hands dirty it seems a worthwhile investment.

Investigating the rough running of my engine I ended up cleaning the EGR as suggested elsewhere in this forum. It was very gummed up and I saw that the valve can be recalibrated using VAG-COM. Both procedures are very well documented here. However I have a question about the calibration I can only seem to enter 33638 as the maximum adaptation value not the 33768 suggested. Is this just a Ford specific limitation or am I doing some thing wrong?

I have had a problem with my Galaxy for a while now where the Glow Plug light comes on when driving for now apparent reason or affect on performance and sometimes it will clear shortly after, after an ignition reset Or not. Armed with VAG-COM I checked the ECU and found the brake light switch was logging: 16955 - Brake Switch (F): Implausible Signal. Reading several posts seems to confirm that this is a very common cause. So I took the switch out to take a look (my skills being electrical more than mechanical). My car, a 76,000mile 2000, 1.9TDI 115Bhp Zetec, has only a single Black switch fitted. Upon opening it (not advised :D ) it has two contact blocks. One rated for current, operating the actual lights and the other low current set, I assume, signalling the ECU although I think the ECU monitors both sides. The switch construction is not of a high standards (typical for car electrics) using poor plated contacts as opposed to Gold flashed one used in the electronic industry. I found the contacts to be dirty but the big contacts to have arc'd and become badly pitted. Out with a bit of emery cloth and they are nice and shiny again. Time will tell if it is fixed. Anyway the theory... The extra load of an additional set of brake lights from a trailer board (cycle rack in my case) or towing a trailer causes the contacts to wear quicker and with an older car the switch will just get dirty leading to poor contact and eventual arcing. If I get the fault again I will be replacing the switch with a new one. It will be interesting to see if it is modified (better rated) being a newer part.

Well just got myself an OBD interface and VAG-COM after having a few issues with the motor. Thought it would be worth the dosh rather than blindly changing parts etc. All I can say is that there is a mine of info waiting to be had and while I'm sure much of the info is open to interpretation I have already found it very informative over a few of the issues I have. For example I have had a few problems with the parking sensors. Previously I just borrowed a mate

I think what you are seeing is the resin out of the tree. Is it sticky? It should clean off. If you absoulutly have to park under the tree then a would clean the car regualy and apply a good coat of polish each time to help protect the paint from permanent damage. The other issue when parking under trees is bird droppings and these are really nasty to paintwork. Do you have any pics?

Nice one Halfords B) How hard can it be? I have just fitted my own DVD system based upon an Alpine head unit and that had to have a dedicated power feed as well. Could not even begin to think how they have trashed everything espcially as Alpine use ISO fit connectors and one would assume Halfords would use thier own ISO to Ford/Seat/VW supplied adaptor as I did. I'm guessing they have popped a fuse some where because the HU is wired wrong and this is revese feeding the system some where. As Halfords have stuffed it they should fix it or at least restore it to how it was before they atempted the fit. If you feel you've had enough take it elsewhere and send Halfords the bill. However if you want a job doing.... I'd remove the HU and unplug it from the car and see if normal functionality is restored.

I'm not sure about the engine specifics here but 2000 was the cross over from old to new shape and I found that I had front brake calipers and pads from the older model fit to my car even though I should of had the newer ones. Using up the bits on the production run I guess.

Not strictly for legal sale but Ford should turn a blind eye for all those with air con problems etc. Yep, it is a service manual for most of thier vehicles. Loads on ebay costing about

I just replaced mine last night. Probabley not the best way but I just poured the fuel out of the old filter through the outlet pipe in to the top of the new one. Popped it all back an the car did not miss a beat.

Unless you get the polarity incorrect there is little chance of damaging the DVD kit. I cannot remember the colours exactly but Brown is normally ground and from recall is one of the thicker leads in the radio loom. In the radio power plug I think there are two grounds, a ignition feed, a permanent feed and a blue power out for the aerial amp and switching other remote devices. eg: power amps and your DVD kit. As mentioned you could also use any of the power sockets. However they are able to supply more current than you need. This is not a problem as long as there are not faults in the system so make sure you fuse the supply lines appropriatley. The other issue could be with noise and ground loops so I would prefer to link the head unit and the DVD to the same supply lines.

Found my copy of TIS and it would appear that on the 115 there is no wastegate but a variable pitch blade system. Still checked the vac pipe and that seems fine but I need to get better access to take a proper look. Most of the driving is just local stuff and is driven by the missus. We are off on a longer jaunt at the weekend so I have chance to see how it fairs then. I don't really have a problem with the MPG but just wondered if it was linked to the sluggishness in some way.

Cheers for that. Where do I find the valve? I assume it is vaccum controled. I thought I had checked all the pipes for leaks but perhaps I missed one. I'll check my copy of TIS once I find the CD.

I'm sure others will have thoughts on this or even know where the correct power feeds are but considering it is for media stuff (low current ish) I think you could quite happily take the feeds off the back of the head unit. I'm assuming you are going to have to run cables there anyway for the audio. I have just fitted my own DVD system based on separates... A motorised roof mount screen 1 DIN DVD play and 1 DIN DVD headunit replacing the Ford 6000CD unit. The head unit is has a high power amp with it's own power feed from the battery. Switched feeds come from the normal headunit loom.

I've asked this before but I'm running out of things to try... I have a secondhand 1.9L 115bhp TDI (73,000miles). Being my first oil buirner I was not sure what to expect in terms of performance but was at least expecting good MPG. Having plenty of time to get used to it now I'm typically getting 32-35MPG. I must admit that my driving style is not the best for MPG but I expected it to be a little higher having read posts of 45. Still it is much better than my 2.3 Petrol. Acceleration is not as swift as I would expect and seems to loose steam around 3000rpm. Passing can be fun and hills can also see me losing speed and having to pull over. The final thing that seems odd is that there is strange effect while changing gear and reapplying the accelerator. There is a sudden surge of power and then it drops off right away and accellerates less swiftly. These are the things I have done/tried so far... Replaced the air filter, was dirty and gave a notable change in performance. Disconnecting the MAF makes the car accelerate real slow topping out at 60MPH. Therefore I assume it is OK. I have removed and cleaned the EGR. This was gummed up but cleaning it made no difference. I cleaned the inlet manifold. This was not that bad and made no difference. Changed the fuel filter. Seemed really dirty but made no change. Any thoughts of things to change or test first. BTW as you may have realised I'm not a mechanic. Thanks in advance

Might help to indicate when exactly you mean and how much current you wish to draw. I have mounted a Hands free phone unit just in front of the gear lever. As the current draw is not to much I just sourced it from the back of the stereo. You have switched, permanent and grounds there. If you are needing a lot more jucie then it is not hard to get power and ground direct from the battery as there is a large unused grommet (well there is in my car) through which to pull the leads. Just ensure that the leads are fused at the battery end.

I'm not sure electically what signals come out but from recolection there are three wires. I would imaging two will be power and ground with the other being the output. The sensor actaully consists of a Piezo transducer that emmits ultrasonic signals and measures the time for them to return. Anything in the way changes this time. The deep constant tone which you are getting sounds as though you have a fault. Further proved by the fact that you get the same noise when you unplug the sensor. As far as I can tell this is done so that you don't reverse merrily thinking it is all woking OK and then you hit some thing. I'm not sure but I think the guy that designed this system is the same one that did the air conn :o I my experience the best way to test the system is to borrow one off a working car and swap out each sensor one at a time. Our system was faulty as you described when we first got our. In the end I found a duff sensor on the front. Further investigation revealed that the prevoius owner had a scrape along the bump strip. Taking this off I found the sensor in two halves.