GaryM

So todays update, Got rather soggy in the rain having a hell of a time trying to get the car to prime. Part of the advice which comes with the turbo is to allow the engine to crank without it starting to ensure the oil gets pumped around the system and the new turbo as well as confirming full pressure. All make sense and after spending £380+VAT on a rebuilt turbo I did not want to risk any damage. I achived this by leaving the fuel pipe off the filter as I had changed this at the same time. This meant that when I did want the thing to start it was not having it. I could not get it to prime in the end I had to get an inline hand pump to do it and that took a surprisingly long time to draw the fuel back up. Anyway it now starts and have done a short test drive, no whistle :-). Will take it for a longer run tomorrw.

So to confirm. The filter assy just sits in a hanger. If you remove the plug, front feed hose and larger tank hose on top you can lift the filer out and work on it over a tray to catch any spillages etc. Open housing and dispose of fuel and old filer. Make sure it is all clean inside Remove protective center cap on new filter and locate over center pipe of the lid Fill the bowl with fresh fuel. Screw back together makeing sure the large o-ring is inserted between the bottom of the metal lip and the top of the bowl. Reconnect your hoses and cable. Then crank and see if the car will start. If you are lucky it will but may run rough as it draws the fuel and clears the air locks. If you are not then the fuel may have run back to the tank. If this is the case you will need to use an inline hand pump between the pipe from the tank to the filter. It can take a long while pumping to get the fuel back up. I know because I have just had to do all of this after a turbo change.

Do not know what the SMAX looks like but my 06 Galaxy the interior lamps and reading lamps all vary depending on thier location. A good source for retrofit lamps is here. Beaware however if replacing the external lamps there are also sorts of strange monitoring currents that run through the lamps and this can result in situations where lamps show up as failed or never turn off etc.

Yep lets play a tune! Inlet manifold cleaned, Broken stud to exhaust manifold drilled out and helicoiled, New turbo in, Fluids replaced, Bearings pre lubricated. Now need to prime fuel system and we should be done.

Forgot to add the sound track. Ear plugs at the ready... Turbo Squeal.mp3

So for some 18 months or more I have been running around with an occasional squeal comming from the drivers side of the engine bay or so I thought. To me it sounded like fanbelt squeal. It has gradually got worse and so a while back I decided to investigate. I replaced the Aux drive belt, no change, then changed the tensioner and direction pully. Still there. So it got left for a while untill the noise got unbearable. I took it to our local garage who changed the cam belt and tensioner on the top half of the engine where upon they diagnosed the turbo. I have been meaning to clean out the inlet manifold and needed to address a broken stud on the exhaust manifold and to get to these the turbo needs to be out of the way. Not sure if I was up to it but took the plunge this weekend and stripped it all down. Glad I did as I found the turbo was ready to blow. It had been blowing oil and there was nearly a mm of play on the shaft. I have been really lucky considering how many miles I have driven over the last 18 months. Just in the process of puting it all back today so will post again hopefully with some picks.

Actually I have just cahnged mine as I decided to give it a service after swapping out the turbo (actualy still work in progress as I type). Just release the locking collar on the top lift the lid and pull out the old filter and swap for the new one and its supplied seal. On the side of the body there is also a cream drain plug if you want to empty the container of any collected water and crud. I have not got to that stage yet put it may take a few turns until the pump primes the system back up.

I no longer have this style of Galaxy (MK2?) but off the top of my head I would take a look at the wiring. Especially where it crosses close to bodywork, pipes etc. or other ware points. For a fuse to blow it suggests a short. In fact you say the radio is on it as well I'd look there first as this is probably the most prone area to fiddling due to installation of aftermarket units.

I'm not mechanic just technically minded and have my own experiences to go on. 30K for a DMF would be premature anyway. And normally you would change it together with the clutch as the unbalancing of the DMF increases clutch ware and being a big job is not worth doing one without the other. Parts are circa £400 plus labour so aboy £700. The only reason I mentioned it is that you say it is on the low end revs and that is just like the DMF. Normally it will also take out the Thrust bearing and this rattles on very low revs and when you turn the motor off. Fueling is all electronically managed so unless there is a pump, injector or sensor failure there is nothing to program unless it has been fuel mapped by a third party. Hope it is not the turbo cos that is another biggy and I'm just about to go down that route with mine as it squeals all the time and I cannot spin the impeller freely. Could it just be a ratle caused by loose cables or pipes against the bulkhead? It is all very tightly packed in there.

If it is the same as my 1.8 tdci then there is one plug, front hose and rear hose to remove then it just lifts up. http://www.morban.co.uk/MiscImages/IMG_5770.JPG See the nice tywrap to hold the front hose in place courtesy of a garage service.

Does the rattle go if you dip the clutch? And do you get it when turning the engine off? If you do try starting and turning off again with the cluch pressed. If it goes it would not surprise me if it is the DMF (dual mass flywheel) even though your motor is reasonably low mileage.

Not the water pump! Removed the aux drive belt and the noise was still there. Now change the upper cam timming and tensioner, still there. Looking like a turbo! Impler turns but not freely.

Strange because many people fit the blanking plates to reduce the excessive black smoke that a faulty EGR and gummed up inlet manifold cause to get it through an MOT. If these systems are to perform then perhaps they should be part of the service routine. Both my cars have passed thier MOTs with the EGR plates fitted. In addition surley better fuel ecconomy, is less fuel burnt, is less overall pollution. In my days of old playing with engines polishing the ports, inlets and outlets was a sure fire way of increasing performance. Now (to meet regs) we are choking the engine by returning olliy sooty exhaust gas into the inlet manifold and burning it again. This gunge in turn sticks to the side of the manifold and EGR valve hindering that airflow of a nice new engine. Another issue is that the increased acids and pollutants get to work on the engine oil hence all the expensive concoctions seen. When you are next in Halfords take a look at the variation in price by car manufacture for halfords own brand 5W30. It seems to me that many of these systems in play now are there to meet the regs but then do not take into account any ware are tare, cost of long term maintenance and fuel efficency over the life of the engine. Sure I minimise my Nox emmisions at the start but I carrying arround sophisticated electronics, various actuators, weight etc. all of which cause pollution during thier manufacture and later replacement. Just look at the precious metals in a CAT. Bring on all electric vehicles.

Open the side hatch Insert you hand back towards the light assy You will find two long Black wing nuts, undo and slide of long shafts Lamp assy is now loose and can be removed taken out by sliding away from body Then it is a philips scew or two to release the lamp plate. When replacing the lamp check plate as just being galvanised is subject to corrosion

The debate runs long if you search the web. For my two penith it is my belief that this is required to meet all the EU regs but after 20K or so its effectiveness v's longer term fuel economy and potential component failure outweighs any benifit it may bring. What it is doing is returning oily exhasut gas back to the inlet for a second burn and this gums up the inlet manifold resiricting airflow, putting oliy soot into the engine oil etc. And to achive this it needs various valves, sensors, cooling systems which are all items that can go wrong and add weight and cost to the vehicle. As to damage, if anything I'd say it will add to the longer term reliability and certainly fuel economy. I'd blank it off. Not sure if the setup is the same as my 1.8 but if you have not had the MIL light on already because of EGR issues then I'd assume the valve has not gummed up and therefore is working reliably. That being the case blanking the EGR will stop the return of the gasses but the actuator and position sensor will work as before. Worst case you will just have to learn to ignore the MIL light but if you are in the know I think you can turn the EGR system off using the ODB port. Unfortunatly I'm not in the know in that regard. It is a quick fit, low cost. So try it for a month and let us know what you think. Gary

Update, I have now blanked the EGR out totally. And to stop the EGR light from comming on all I did was to remove the link in the EGR motor so that the motor works and provides feedback to the position sensor but the actual valve does not operate. Gained an instant 4-5mpg and that is without changing my driving style. I'm intrested to see how clean the enging oil stays now. But I still want to get the inlet manifold off and give it a good clean.

I have the same and never really twigged what cause is. At times I wondered if I had caught the off button by mistake but I've definatly had it kick out while trimming the speed.

I have a horrible squeal at various revs that I think is from the water pump (aux belt, tensioner and pulley have all been changed). The cost of the part is relitively small so I'm tempted to change it anyway given I've done 172K. Anyone know if it is a big / hard job?

I have fitted one to my 1.8tdci. Rather than block it off which causes the MIL to come on the one I have has a small hole in it to restrict the flow but fool the sensor so the light does not come on. I have read a lot about EGR and my conclusion is that now the car has done starship mileage 167K it is serving no purpose. I occasionally get EGR errors which I have to reset. I would like to remove it altogether but certainly strip it all down to clean the manifold. Anyone know how to program it out? I have started a strip down but bottled it after I could not figure how to get the lower manifold bolts out. Looks like the exhaust manifold has to come off first which will mean also the cat, turbo etc. A big job in that very limited space behind the engine and only a driveway to work on. Have found the source of one of my other problems though, that being exhaust smells at start-up. The drivers side exhuast manifild bolt has sheared off. Not sure if I can get to it to drill it out.

I'm thinking the MAF. If you disconnect this and get an improvement then it suggests it has failed.

Tis the one hidden at the back of the engine. Access is easier if you remove the tray above

To be fair I was using the bits I had, nothing special, Titanium coated (well they were). And some cheap stud extractors from screwfix that buckled on first use. I already had to buy a right angled drill adaptor just to get in there. I would certainly be easier to access if I could get the inlet manifold off

I have since rebuilt the dumbell (as it were) by getting some brass tube from a model shop and cutting that down in to three sections separated by washers. Then it is all held together by a long 3mm screw and nut with the bearings at either end. I would have loved to remove the inlet manifold to clean it all down but there seems to be two bolts that are covered by the exhaust manifold so suddenly I'd end up having to remove that, the link to the cat and the turbo, a bit beyond me at home. Unless anyone has any bright ideas of how to remove the last two bolts? However I did find the cause of exhaust smells in the cabin at start up. The exhasut manifold has snapped one of the studs. I have tried drilling it out in situ to no avail. Looks like a big bill to get it all sorted by the village garage :-(

I have just topped up both my cars with a single refill, about 40PSI for todays temps. Plus I have just realised that the bottle has a

As far as I know you need to measure the pressure with the system running at full tilt. Give it 3 mins or so to get going then test presures or do the refil.