GaryM

From my experience with swapping out the standard lamps with LED ones I think you may find that you get lamp failures showing on the dash and strange other symptoms like the LEDs staying on just a little bit when the ignition is off. They way around this would be to fit a dummy load (power resistor) to simulate that of the normal lamps.

Probably the most obvious locations are the ignition switch or the back of the Stereo. The stereo is where I have tapped in for my phone cradle

I've run with these and the EGR cooler removed for sometime now. For me there was a definite increase of MPG albeit only 2-3 and it has helped reduce the soot etc.

Just checked and I actually took the feed from the drivers side rear quarter window switch. +12V = Brown with Grey trace 0V = Black with Blue trace BTW to get access, unclip the whole panel working from the back sides while pulling down. It should sort of hinge down towards the windscreen as there are longer lugs in the front holding it all in place. Picture is not vey clear I'm affraid but the feed to the guts of the ciggy PSU are the two Black wires... http://www.morban.co.uk/MiscImages/UpperPowerTakeOff.JPG

Yep, without taking a look I can't remember where I tapped in. I you are lucky I might take a peek later Mine is micro USB as well so I just used a ciggy adaptor and wired the supply to that before insulating it

I managed to find an ignition switched feed above the courtsey light and took it from there as that is where my crash cam is, by the mirror. Saves trailing cables.

I previously had a MKII and that broke down on the Motorway with a flat battery. I eventually chased the fault to a black fuse box to the front passenger side of the engine bay. This had all melted which meant that the charge was not getting back to the battery... http://www.morban.co.uk/MiscImages/BurntFuseBox.JPG

Aircon, one port at front by the radiator and the other (the one you want) under the tray & scuttle by the wipers. Best way to acces is to remove the wipers, top tray and lower tray. Does not take that long. Other question, can't help I'm afraid

Don't know but it is high. Can't leave my motor for to many days until the battery is flat. What is intresting is that a while back I deceided to upgrade a lot of the minor bulbs to LED and found that they stayed on all the time, albeit at limited brightness. So this has got to be one contributing factor.

I've changed the ones in the tailgate to red led jobbies mainly because they are more durable against the continued slaming of the door. Just be aware that you cannot do them all (ones in the right and left main body) else the trickle current will keep them lit all the time.

Mine would be fuel, when was the filter last changed?

I know there are plenty waiting in the wings to flame but from what I can see so far the EGR is only good for sale and a few thousand miles thereafter. Then the inlet mafifold, oil etc all start to get polluted and the MPG drops. So now you are using more fuel and carrying the weight of an in effective system. More pollution? As for the MOT certainly the current tests do not see any difference, actually no they see things as better cause there is often less smoke. No doubt that will change. As it stands now the egr blanking plate is a very quick install and remove so could be done either side of the mot

Yep, clean the galvanising around where the lamp holder twists in. That's what fixed mine

Given the date of the post i guess you have fitted this already. Tis a simple job and as long as the valve is still working I don't think you will get a dash light. Well I didn't on my 1.8. In the end I removed the cooler as well after a strip down for a turbo change. Saves carrying unesssary weight Regular 43mph without any effort

One bolt and simple to get to you just need to prise off the triangular trim from inside then you will find it is not loose but the thin metal in that location has bent. Try a large penny washer to spread the load and retighten

Yep simple job. Just need a tool from Halfords or the like to wind the piston back and these can be used on many motors so will soon pay for themselves. While you are there check that the piston seals are OK and that the disc thickness is within spec

Yep pretty much what I expected. There are small leakage currents that flow in many of the lighting circuits and because LEDs need so little current they can still give out a little light even though the circuit would look like it is fully off with a normal lamp. LEDs sold as CAN-bus friendly have a dropper resistor in parallel with the LED to disipate this leakage current, defeates the purpose a little (wasting energy) but still the LEDs generally give off more light and react quicker. You often see this when cars are breaking, the high level LED brake lamp seems to light a fraction sooner than the conventional lamps. Leaving one normal bulb in circuit can often overcome this issue as you have found. BTW also works with dimmable mains LEDs that flicker when dimmed. Leaving one normal lamp in provides enough load for the dimmer switch to work properly. LEDs are polarity sensitive so do have to be connected the right way round to work but should not fuse anything if connected the wrong way. However the way some of the LED bases are made can cause shorts if not fitted correctly.

Have you checked the coolant level? I had a small pin prick in small black breather pipe back to the header tank. This was enough for the coolant spray out but only finely such that it evaproated as soon as it hit the engine block so the leak was not obvoius at first.

Sorry to say it is fairly common so could it be. Whats the milage? Vibration is often most noticable between 1500-2000 rpm. Other symptoms are a rattle from the release bearing when you turn the engine off. You will also proably find that the rattle goes if you keep the clutch pressed as you turn the engine off. If replacing the DMF also remember to factor in a new clutch as the vibration can create additional ware and it is all in the same area when stripping it down. If it is slight I'd leave it for bit and look at it again after all the christmas spends have passed as it is quite an expensive job £1000 plus. The only odd thing is that from your description, a misfire seems to sugest an intermittant shake etc. and with the DMF it would be fairly constant in my experience.

I have just replaced my turbo on a 1.8 TDCi. Got it from Motor Parts Direct. It was a remanufactured part by Ivor Searle and looked spotless, by that I mean all the metal work was as new. Comes with a years warrenty but like all that I looked at was pretty useless given all the caveats. Came in nextday and had to return the old one to get the final price of £380 + VAT. Another option is just to buy the cartridge (the bit with the blades on) but I was not that brave. A quick google will also bring up loads of places that will rebuild your own turbo if you can aford to be off the road that long.

I had a problem early on with mine where one of the little expansion pipes back to header had got a pin prick in it and was spraying over the front of the engine. I did not notice till temp gauge went off the scale. Turned out the leak was caused by the pipe becomming unclipped and rubbing on the AC pipe just to the left front of the engine above the radiator. The EGR cooler could be the problem athough it is all out of stainless steel so I would supprised. I have one on ebay but not sure if it would fit. Pretty easy to fit.

LEDs will dim simply by lowering the voltage and therefore the current through them however thier dimming curve will not match that of a filament lamp. The best thing is to try. You won't do any damage. You are more likley however to fall foul of the various monitoring currents etc. which may mean that the LEDs do no go fully off.

So since the repairs where completed the MPG has gone up from 42 to 46 without any change in driving style. And the cause of my 18months + of music... http://www.morban.co.uk/MiscImages/turbo.JPG There was nearly a mm of play on the end shaft of the turbo. The squealing was from bearing pick up. I'm just amazed how many miles I traveled on it.

There is no link so we don't know what "this" plate is? There are two types of plate a restricted one and a blanking plate (yes I know it says A4 but it is the same size). I went for the later (in fact two). The plate is sandwiched between the EGR cooler outlet and the feed to the inlet manifold. The restrictor plate has the advantage that it lets some of the gases through and so should not trigger any MIL's but of course that means you are pulling crud back through the engine for a second burn still albeit less of it. Long term it is still going to ultimately restrict the airflow and probably end up with the MIL coming on as and when the EGR valve finally gums up. I have been running for some time with just one restrictor plate in and saw an instant improvement in MPG from a 39 average to 42 without any change in driving style and that is not particularly fuel efficient. As per a previous post I disabled the physical operation of the valve while allowing the motor and position sensor to think it was all working. However after a recent strip down brought on by a recent turbo failure (and the two are not related by the way) I took the chance to clean the inlet manifold and remove the EGR cooler which is a weight saving or 2-2.5Kg if you include the fluids. Overall nothing, but it all adds up. This involves fitting another blanking plate to exhaust manifold. Removing the EGR cooler and jointing the cooling pipes together. Heres what EGR does to your manifold... http://www.morban.co.uk/MiscImages/Inlet%20manifold1.JPG http://www.morban.co.uk/MiscImages/Inlet%20manifold2.JPG Pretty gunked and a messy clean. BTW getting to the inlet manifold is not for the feint hearted as it involves removing the turbo and exhaust manifold before being able to remove the inlet. If your MIL starts coming on because of EGR faults then most likley it will need a new valve which is integral to the manifold. So £200-300 for one of those and various gaskets plus a lot of labour to put back to stock. So now you know where I side with EGR! Personally dump CAT, EGR & DPFs and go back to lean burn engine development while trying to perfect battery tech for electric motors. Others of course others are intitled to make thier own decision.

Nope. If it is like the one in this post it is just a plastic locking ring. Of course be aware not to crush the ring to much as you try and undo it as that will have the effect of making it harder to rotate.