Ginettamad

Ok thanks now waiting to win one on fleebay!

So TDi90, looks like your Gal is same year as mine and a petrol stalk worked ok on a Tdi? I'll do a search for the stalks then but will I still need the ECU altering as I suspect that will be costly at a dealers? Bloody hate having to go to main dealers! Do the stalks need to be from a set year and specced car as I was told recently? I had a quote of

Thanks I'll try that test with the brake pedal and look for the socket. Is there a black box to fit as well as the Column switches or are the switches all I need from the scrappers? Anyone live near Tadcaster/York with the VAG com thingy bob to check my car. Its a Late MK1 1999 TDi AFN 110? Who sells the ebay aftermarket unit by the way and does it work well? Harvey

My plan is to do the lower ball joints, strut top bearings and dampers too yes but I wanted to compare the Original spring rates to those Gmax spring sets talked about on the custom forum which get a good review. I can get a set of 4 for around

Anyone know if you can retrofit a cruise control to a 99 AFN TDI as some cars of that age had them fitted but mine hasn't? Whats involved, if I found a car with it at a scrappers? Are the Petrol model cruise controls the same as our local scrapper has one in? Harvey

Has anyone got access to the original spring specs for each Gal Model. I would presume the 99 Zetec TDI would have stronger springs than a Petrol Model. Anyone know for sure as suppliers of spring give different stories depending on where you go? Mine have a white dot and yellow dot marked on them which apparently is the factory marking but no idea what poundage they are? Did the Zetec have the same springs as the Alh / Sharan SE? May buy some G max springs but they only list one set for all cars so its a gamble for a heavy TDi engine? Harvey

Did one dro[p link last night in 20 minutes but the other took 2 hours of undoing and tightening working the threads with WD40 and the nuts still wont come off the ends as the threads are so tight at their ends. I ended up re doing them for another day as it was pitch black outside and dinner time! I'll be getting out my angle grinder and grinding off the threads next then the buggers will come off! Be warned some are easy some are not! Cant wait to trying to get my struts out to change the 2 broken springs!! H

Thanks for all your replies not! I have now had the bumper off and fitted my electromagnetic strip inside the bumper and it work fine. The parking reversing sensor was connected to the Black & Blue striped wire which feeds the reverse light on one side inside the jack compartment and the other wire to earth. I put the beeper in there too so its all nice and tidy. Even with the towbar sticking out when i reverse it still gives me a few inches from that once the beeper goes into continuous mode. Much better than drilling holes for ugly (look at my sensors) ultrasonic sensors a less than

I Heard a big bang whilst driving along the M1 the other day then 10 minutes later I heard another big bang a tinkle from the other bloody side! It seems bothe front springs have lost their bottom ends so they must have both been very evenly matched to go so close together? But why? I suspect the MOT man may fail her even though it still rides ok. Looking at my rusted strut tops I presume I'll have to replace the struts too by cutting off the top nuts. Also the top rubbers and bearings as they twang alot and spin in wet weather. Car done 103k now. Can I get the struts out without undoing the drive shaft nuts as I dont have a big enough socket to release them? I preusume if I undo the bottom ball joints and track rod ends then the sliding action of the drive shafts may be enough to remove the struts? Anyone done them recently? H

I have bought a magnetic strip Parking Sensor for my rear bumper as I have a tow bar fitted which interfere with the Ultrasonic Types of sensors. I need to remove the black inner bumper to fix the strip behind the plastic outer bumper. Is this possible with the bumper on or do I need to remove the whole bumper to take the inner off? If so whats involved to remove either the inner or the whole bumper please? Will everything be rusted solid and a nightmare to remove on a 2001 Gal? H

All working well at the mo as I put anti seize grease behind the seals over the H/B lever calliper pivots. Do the wind back tools have to be right hand thread to screw in the pistons as most I have found are LH thread? H

Where is the roll restrictor and what does it look like? Engine seems solid enough? Its a 2001 110 TDI manual. Bearings are fine when not towing and its had a recent CV on the side where the play shows itself after towing so could something cause extra lateral force on the bearing only when towing? When pulling away the car does seem to rise quite a lot due to the extra weight. Mechanics of course just say they cant find a problem as the play goes away after I've stopped towing of course. Its a bloody nuisance as I tow quite a lot. Thanks for your advice and maybe I get a new bearing fitted to see if that cures the problem. H

Just been to a show towing my sports car on a trailer and my gal has developed and nasty vibration from underneath the front when under load accelerating or going up hill. As soon as I take my foot off the gas it stops? It started by feeling like the road service was rough but then immagine driving along those "wake up" lumpy white lines at the side of the motorway then it sounds like that up big hills now. I hope its not too serious but then I start worrying as I have several more long towing trips to make to race ciruits soon so I hope its not the clutch or gearbox. Both of these were replaced before I bought it about a year ago. Any ideas what it could be? Should I suspect the drive shafts or bearings CV's? The vibrations can be felt through the steering wheel and pedals and as the suspension rises and falls it changes slightly. When not towing I have never noticed it before as its not under the same load? Just noticed after a towing trip the wheel bearings feel loose when wobbled and yet there is no play at all under normal unloaded driving? Harvey

So by taking the 13mm nut off the back of the HB lever on the calliper does that still not let the lever come off the spindle to allow better greasing? I'm not going to risk breaking a bleed nipple to strip the whole calliper as all is well for now at least? Has anyone got a scrap calliper to see what happens if I take off this 13mm nut? The reason I ask is would the fluid be lost if this was undone as I dont want that to happen obviously. Cheers Harvey

Just freed off my Sticking handbrake levers on the Girling callipers but wondered if it was safe to undo the nut holding the lever on to the calliper? Would this allow better access to Lubricate or would it ruin the Calliper? My crap H manual says they are not servicable so all I could do was hold back the seal and add oil and work the arms. Does taking the lever off help as I could clean up the surfaces and seal before adding grease? Warning, I found working the lever up and down almost pushed the piston out by the self adjusters with the calliper top swinging loose so on the other side I left the calliper with the pads in so the piston was jammed in. Winding the Piston back in was not easy until I held the handbrake lever half way to catch the threads to screw it back. Must get a wind in tool sometime! H

I hope its not big end wear but as the vibration changes with suspension movement it suggests drive shafts to me. My car history shows the outer NSF CV has been replaced so I have ordered a new one for the drivers side outer for

Mr Maruader? Can you describe how to change CV joints on a Galaxy as I see you have done them your self? Under towing load I am getting a bad vibration which goes when I lift off so I have suspected its CV related? Cheers Harvey

Thanks Might order a pair of Cv's then as around

Just been to a show towing my sports car on a trailer and my gal has developed and nasty vibration from underneath the front when under load accelerating or going up hill. As soon as I take my foot off the gas it stops? It started by feeling like the road service was rough but then immagine driving along those "wake up" lumpy white lines at the side of the motorway then it sounds like that up big hills now. I hope its not too serious but then I start worrying as I have several more long towing trips to make to race ciruits soon so I hope its not the clutch or gearbox. Both of these were replaced before I bought it about a year ago. Any ideas what it could be? Should I suspect the drive shafts or bearings CV's? The vibrations can be felt through the steering wheel and pedals and as the suspension rises and falls it changes slightly. When not towing I have never noticed it before as its not under the same load? Harvey

What

When manoeuvring my steering slowly I get a clunking or twanging noise from my strut tops as the lock builds up and on inspection the top rubber doughnut appears to be sticking then releasing and going twang! So this suggests to me that the bearing inside the rubber has seized up causing the whole outer part to turn instead of the inner race only. As per usual my strut tops are badly rusted and I cant see a chance in hell of releasing the top nuts without destroying the struts to get at the bearing. Has anyone found a way off getting some oil in to lubricate the bearings? If water gets in then surely oil might be enough to get the bearing moving again? I noticed the whole strut top mount actually drops about half an inch in the turret when the car is jacked up and during recent restoration work I pressure washed the arches when jacked up so no doubt I blasted the bearings with water too sadly. I have soaked in some WD40 from the top which seems to have help one side a bit so I

Clicking stuck window cure. I have now sorted it and it was not broken wires in my case but the safety cut out sensor in the motor stopping the window going down again. This must be the same sensor that stops the window if a child puts a finger in the opening stopping the window as resistance is felt by the motor? Therefore maybe if the runners are dirty and stiff causing extra friction and the glass hits the top hard then its enough to trip the sensor off? So keep your bits clean and lubricated!!!!!!! So try this before buying a replacement mechanism / regulator. As soon as I released the pressure from my jammed glass the motor started working again so if you have a motor that

I plan to visit a scrappers soon to get another mechanism and motor so I'll see how that comes apart as its better to damage a scrap car than mine trying. I wondered about making an extra access hole to get to undo the window clamps. The window does seem very tightly jammed up which make me think the safety cut out could have triggered when it reached the top jamming it so hard it wont come down either? Even with all the mechanism bolts off its still jammed because the motor mechanism has two tangs that poke through the door skin holding it in place so the only way it will move is up and in to release. Because the glass is stuck fully up it therefore wont allow me to lift up and in the mechanism tangs unless I bend them up which will probably mean breaking them off. I will probably have to do this to release the pressure but I'll try it on the scrap car firstly if its window is still up. I

One of my mates told me to check this issue as soon as I got my Gal as he has replaced several shafts with worn splines. He also claimed its due to the tight factory assembling the joints dry ie without any grease! Stupid as it has to slide metal to metal in use so no wonder they fail. The factory should be footing the bills really. I plan to remove mine at some point and grease it up! My car has done 96k and its a 110 TDI? The only problem is that no one here has stated which side the problem occurs drivers or nearside shaft? I've still got plenty of other jobs to do first however only had it a few weeks. H

Took off the door card after the wires were checked! Earth checked and ok so I'll have to hunt for a SH regulator and doorcard clips at a scrapper. Not paying 30 - 40p each for silly clips and I still have to work out how to drop the glass enough to undo it? H