Ginettamad

I have Sharan 16" minilte style wheels as they don't have the plastic center caps which fade on fords.

Plus the cv boot had split yet again!

Well I've now had the flywheel dmf and clutch replaced and fingers crossed it's fixed. The clutch still had some meat on it @ 130k miles. The DMF flywheel had a fair bit of rotational movement which I think was the problem. I also had to replace the rear crank seal behind the flywheel. Clutch now much lighter to use so job well done but £800 bill!

My foam insulation is falling apart now. Has anyone found replacement foam for the head? Not the plastic cover but the foam close fitted around the head. Is it available from VW people? Thanks.

Dual mass flywheel seems the most common diagnosis.slight vibs go with clutch pushed in.

Just rebuilt mine with the alloy cog kit via eBay German seller. Hardest bit is grinding the old rivets out but easy after that.

Just rebuilt mine with the alloy cog kit via eBay German seller. Hardest bit is grinding the old rivets out but easy after that.

Just rebuilt mine with the alloy cog kit via eBay German seller. Hardest bit is grinding the old rivets out but easy after that.

Just rebuilt mine with the alloy cog kit via eBay German seller. Hardest bit is grinding the old rivets out but easy after that.

Just rebuilt mine with the alloy cog kit via eBay German seller. Hardest bit is grinding the old rivets out but easy after that.

MK2 gal 130k original clutch and drive shafts. Very strange side to side oscillations only when loaded up. Stuff in the passenger footwell can be seen wobbling side to side and occupants feel the wobbling?. If I lift off it goes. When on my own in the car no sign of it at all. Drive shafts have been off to grease the dry joints and several new CV Boots over the years. My first thought was CV joints but they appear ok for 130k? Is this a symptom of DM Flyweel failure? Anyone else had it? Not sure if my car needed the dmf recall but it's not been apart during my 13 year's of ownership since 50k miles. Car is well looked after as never found anything better like for like!. Any ideas

Thanks booked in for some welding and painting next week. Most worried about the rear inner sills. Will check bulkhead too.

Thanks booked in for some welding and painting next week. Most worried about the rear inner sills.

My Gal is starting to look a bit scruffy around the sill and arches so I've booked it in for some repair work. Whilst under it the other day I found small perforation holes at the front of each inner sill on the inside faces clearly where water can't drain out.some of the drain hole were also bunged up with seam sealer from the two previous sill repairs (bad jacking). I also found on the same inner sills right at the back where the rear subframe mounts further rust which is difficult to get at. On the drivers side the fuel tank is close and on the other side is the aux heater. Hopely I'll get away with treating and painting the rear inner sills as I dont fancy removing the rear sub frame? Has any removed the rear subframe and tank for sill welding??? I wondered where else the Gals tend to rust as I want to try and preserve mine by treating any rust it has? I plan to take off the front arch plastic covers to clean out the mud again too before it goes for paint. I've also found a few bits of rust in the front arch bottoms near where the brake lines fit. I'll check the front lower arches under the plastic and found a few patches on the floor around bungs.

Taptalk faulty hence repeat posts? Sorry all.

Anyone know what happens if you undo the rear anti roll bar? I tried and failed to get my rear springs out as the ARB restricts the arm movement downwards. As such I'm thinking of dropping it down? I wondered if the ARB was under a lot of tension at certain points hence my worries about getting it back on again? My spring compressors struggled as the spring coils are not parallel?

Anyone know what happens if you undo the rear anti roll bar? I tried and failed to get my rear springs out as the ARB restricts the arm movement downwards. As such I'm thinking of dropping it down? I wondered if the ARB was under a lot of tension at certain points hence my worries about getting it back on again? My spring compressors struggled as the spring coils are not parallel?

Anyone know what happens if you undo the rear anti roll bar? I tried and failed to get my rear springs out as the ARB restricts the arm movement downwards. As such I'm thinking of dropping it down? I wondered if the ARB was under a lot of tension at certain points hence my worries about getting it back on again? My spring compressors struggled as the spring coils are not parallel?

My mobile can upset my remote I've found. Just reprogrammed mine again as both my phone and remote were in the same pocket??

Anyone have part numbers for both for 2005 150bhp TDI? I've heard there were several spring options? H

Had this problem for some time now and I doubt there is an easy answer. If at motorway speed say 70mph if I then brake reasonably hard I get bad vibes through the car and steering wheel. The feeling feels just like warped brake disc's so I have now replaced all 4 of my brake discs and guess what the problem still exists? On testing the new discs they all appear to be running true. If I dab the brakes on and off the vibration seems to then reduce so at the moment I just live with it but I would like to know what it could be. At slow speeds its not too bad but can just be felt. As a precaution as well as the brakes, I have now replaced my front lower ball joints and ARB links plus one rear calliper along with new brake fluid and a full brake bleed. I cant find any play in the suspension and everything appear ok passing 2 MOT tests without a problem? Nothing else at the front has ever been replaced in my time and its just reached 100k miles.

My rear door has stopped locking with the central locking. I've checked the wires into the door and none have broken. When I operate the locking I do here a slight whirr from the door but the handle does not move in. It manually locks ok thankfully. Any obvious idea's?

Thanks have sent you a PM!

I've also found slightly cheaper alternative vw oil called Febi 21829 Gearbox Oil also found at

I had the badge replace by the dealer when I bought it about 6 years ago and now the glue just let go so it got run over but it was not faded. I'll print the free badge doc and try a Ford dealer if I pass one but doubt they'll honour a new badge as my car is nearly 10 years old now althought they say 120 months service which is 10 years?