Ginettamad

I have a 99 TDi 110 which had a new box a few years back. I have the OFF side ABS ring on the CV joint spinning loose so I orderd a new CV and got an Pre 2000 one only to find mine has the later smaller splined drive shafts possibly due to the box change? The garage has now have found the intermediate bearing has come apart holding the OFF side driveshaft. So is this also a very expensive part to replace? No idea re the drive shaft flanges but all this due to the ABS ring comming loose! Apparently there are numerous types of bearings and carriers so god knows what my bill will come to? Harvey

Here is a lowered Photo to show its height now? I'm usually seen up and down the A64 from Tad to York and back. I've got a Private HL plate on and hope to get the cruise working soon. Anyone know what named colour my car is? Cheers Harvey

See the 18" wheel change messages. Race Dynamics do a full set for

Yep 50mm drop and its quite a bit lower as the new Bogee shocks fit differently with no tube protruding right through the hub clamp. Of course they could be the same length overall but they appear shorter? They just fit flush so must have been shorter and both clamp bolt sheared off so they had to be drilled through with bolts used to clamp the shocks instead. Also fitted new top bearings and drop links. When the car is clean I'll take a picture or two. Just secured a set of new XL Tyres for

Finally time to report back on 4 Race Dynamics springs which are now fitted. They are claimed to be Gmax springs but sell for around

Following your article I thought I'd buy Galaxy Gmax springs as you have. I have just bought a set of springs but think I have been ripped off. The company claimed via email and the phone that the springs are Gmax progressive springs but to me they look like cheap standard springs that have been sawn off? So before I complain have you any pictures of your Gmax springs before fitted? Can you see the progressive spring coils i.e. two or three coils closer together? What did the ends of the springs look like as mine are not finished or ground to a radius just roughly cut? Mine are also black and I had expect them to be red? Cheers Harvey

Laptop running Xp I think not Vista, not sure how to run as admin or compatability test? Ltop has two usb ports and it must be working to check for fault codes which seemed to work? It took a lot of attempts to find the interface until I used dumb mode which worked. When going to Login 11 button nothing seemed to change in the number fields when I added the code? No G suddenley appeared anywhere? I noitced my lead only has a few pins in it for some reason? Harvey

The alloy itself doesnt leak its corrosion and lifting paint around the rims that causes leaks. I've just had my alloys restored as they leaked before and now they are fine with the same tyres on. Otherwise remove tyres smooth off the rim with wire brush then paint or seal so the rim is smooth before putting tyre back on. A wire brush only is not enough as the bare alloy will continue to oxidise. Cost me

Sorry I missed your reply PM Tdi. Still not sorted CC and had to give boorowed Laptop back but from reading about VAG could the driver by wrongly loaded? It seems to work to a degree but when login on button pressed the fields dont change? No idea how to sort this but it may explain why following the instructions dont seem to change anything on the component field which remains showing my ecu number I presume? Any VAG boffins out there that can show me step by step or button by button? H

bj2004 I have loaded vag-com but no idea if its loaded properly as I had no instructions? Then tested and it took a lot of fiddling with the cable to find the interface but when I ticked the dumb mode it linked up so I followed the commands as you say but nothing changed on screen after the login 11 and number? It just shows the car details before login11 and those details stay on screen after i try the code? My car is a 1999 so is the code the correct one? Any way I can test the software to see if its loaded correctly? The fault code search said No faults so thats good. Harvey Anyone coming near Tadcaster A1 / M1 who can help?

Now fitted my keyless remote locking KE60 as per Musseys Photo and its working for opening and closing ok. Which wires do I connect to for the Full closure mode and which for the boot only release please? Neither of these work now. Anyone successfully done this on a late MK1 with locking module under the dash? Also is there no way of using the blank Keys supplied with the remote as they are not chipped? I cant see a way of transferring the original key parts over to the remote which is a shame? I have also found that if i lock the car with thr key then the remote wont work for unlocking unless i push the lock button first then unlock to activate the unit. This is also a shame but not a big problem once you know. So if anyone has sorted the full closure and boot release with the KE60w please let me know. Harvey

Thanks I've ordered the USB one so fingers crossed I can find a Laptop to borrow with USB. On hols from Friday so I'll be back with questions once I try it out. Anyone got good step by step Laptop loading instructions to activate the Cruise stalks? Tdi ? Harvey

Need to activate my cruise control stalks and local stealer wanted

---king dealer wants

No such luck! H

Is this the Lead and software for my 99 MK1 Gal TDi? There seems to be loads of differant versions of the software and leads? Is the USB the best one to get? Is KKL 409.1 the software for the older models like mine at 1999? I want to activate my newly fitted cruise controls and check other problems out. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-COM-USB-KKL-409-...id=p3286.c0.m14 I also wondered if the Ghia Climate Control box would fit and replace my heater controls whithout much fuss? My Air con works but its not very cold however. Any pros and cons with the climate control box? Cheers Harvey

Just added a more high tech system to mine but no drilling or painting of sensors as I bought an electromagnetic system which sticks behind the bumper. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=160282412985 I was told it was a better option due to having a towbar. It was less than

How much did that cost then from the dealers? I now have the

Ok Chaps, I have now won a set of CC Stalks to fit tonight then I'll try my local Ford dealer to see if he can set my car up to use the CC. What do I ask for an ECU re set or update? I have a long trip to make on Sunday down the M1 to test it out. Harvey

Thanks I have sent rightclick an email yesterday about it but still no reply but I think I will buy one for my Birthday soon if they reply to my questions. Harvey

Next Improvement idea is to do this. Anyone added this to a car without it as standard? Found this on ebay which claim it should fit and work but does it? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...1742.m153.l1262 What sort of a wiring mess could I get into with this and what about the chips in the keys? Will any re programming be needed? Harvey

Yes with engine running and off.

I also took pictures of how to do the job with the windows jammed up! I found that lubricating all the flock runners with Silicone spray from Liddols supermarket made the windows much faster so friction is probably the main reason the motors fail. Clean the crap out off the runners and my windows now shoot up and down in seconds. Harvey

Had to replace mine recently when the clicking started as the motor internal switching was bug--ed. Also found when releasing the pressure they worked again but as they hit the tops again they would lock out again so I replaced the full regulators to cure. Scrap yard were much cheaper than ebay at

Done the dodgy drop link which cured one rattle but the knock can still be felt on the steering arm when someone wiggles the steering. Track rod ends seem ok which just leaves the inner rack ball joints which can be bought from ebay for