Ginettamad

Now got my Pennasol PD oil and Air,Oil and Fuel filters to do my service on my MK2 TDi PD 150BHP. The fuel filter however looks the same as my MK1 Gal but is that correct? I was expecting a different looking item but I must admit I have not had time to check my MK2 Filter yet on the car. I was just wondering if I'd been sent the wrong part? No I need half a dry day spare to carry out the service??? Not easy for me!

I've just fitted new pads front and back but occasionally my Pad warning light comes back on? I know all the pads are new and connected ok but does the light have to be re-set with VAG.com? Or could my new pads be faulty and earthing somehow? Its most likely the rear pads as thats when the problem really started. Does it come on for other reasons also as once it came on when the handbrake was pulled? H

ok thanks now need to decided whether to go for the euro 13 pin and have a 12n adapter to make future proof although no plan to buy a mobile shed. H

I've had a quick read of related posts and I plan to fit a tow bar soon and am now looking at the wiring kits specific to my car. For my 2005 TDi (150BHP) I have found this kit listed by towequipe http://www.towequipe.co.uk/products/towbars-and-towbar-wiring-ford-galaxy-car-specific-wiring-kits/towt024-7-pin-specific-towbar-wiring-ford-galaxy-95-to-06.html for

Thanks that all sounds ok generally and yes I have done the pollen filter before on my MK1 so I'll check the new Gals. Interesting about the Oil tester but guess I wont know until I remove the under tray. I was wrong about the miles since I bought it so the figure is less so more like only 5k since the oil should have been done! Harvey

My service light is now on and its only done 7000 miles since I bought it from a dealer. God knows what oil was put in however when he did the pre buy service? I have always serviced my own motors so before I start I have a few questions to those of you that have done a PD before! I see that the Pd engine uses a paper element oil filter rather than a normal screw on filter so as the service process is going to be different to my old AFN gal I thought I'd ask as to whats involved and how much time I'll need to give it a service. Its now done 49k miles. So I'll buy a; PD Oil and paper Filter (Does the 150bhp need more specialist oil than 505.01? Not Long life I presume?) Fuel Filter Air Filter Wont bother with a Pollen filter but I'll check it and clean if nec? Just fitted new brake Pads both front and back but other than the obvious what else will need checking out. So are any of these replacement items a bugger to fit time and difficulty wise as I've not done a PD engine before? I have not looked at where each of the parts fit yet either so are they in awkward places to get at? Will the deisel need any priming when I replace the fuel filter? Also the miles seem a little low to me but I do quite a few short journeys I suppose so shall I wait for 2000 miles more? Shouldn't it be around 10,000 miles? How do I re-set the Oil light and does it actually monitor the oil condition or just count the miles before it re-lights? Cheers in advance. Harvey

I managed to prise off from the bottom trim with enough space for me to reach up to the washer jet peg and found the pipe very loose. It pushed back on with a click and now works fine again so all sorted. I reckon the frost had forced it off even when I use additive? H

Had it all tested at a VW specialist and guess what they found. Nothing! so I'll just have to live with it being lumpy when cold until something shows itself? VAG Clear? No chance of a warranty claim now sadly.

Mine too snapped so I have now just soldered the wires to some straightened out sections of paperclips which push into the socket then insulated them and the light has gone out. Number 1 wire is the Live in the socket. H

Got the screws all out but trim wont budge easily so I guess I'm going to have a lot of broken trim clips when I start prizing! Water leaking into the back door so it must have partially detached or split from the wiper. H

No in any gear it misses when cold but at 40 it would be 4th or 5th gear. Its just easier to feel if revs kept constant. It also sounds like when the blip judders the turbo spins up and then settles back down as I can hear it with the windows down. H

Thanks for the info I'll have a go soon and report back. Harvey

Thanks I will see what the dealer can do and I hope I can get it looked at locally under their warranty. I tried several 130 TDIs and even late 2L 140 engined cars but they didnt feel much better than my old 110 with the weight of a Gal but the 150 feels much more powerful so worth looking for. They also give better fuel consumption on paper anyway! The New MK3 Gal has less internal space as the seats are fixed in and is half a ton heavier so that felt even slower than my old 110 even though Ford claim a faster 0-60 time for the 2L 140 engine! H

New car new problems! I suspect I have a split water pipe inside my rear door somewhere as the washer works but lacks pressure but on opening the tailgate I found the leaking fluid had filled the floor catch at the bottom of the floor? I know about the pipe joints coming apart at the front of a Gal but are there joints at the back too inside the rear door? I Cant see an obvious way of getting the rear door cover off yet and I dont want to break any spring clips trying without finding out how its fixed in place firstly. Has anyone any pictures of a removed rear door panel on a MK2? Harvey

My Old 110 Tdi is running great but up for sale as the new 2005 TDi150 Gal is its replacement. I have an old version (not sure which) of VAG-com which works for checking the MK1 but will this still be ok for checking for faults with the 2005 Gal. The new Gal has a 3 month warranty but the dealers is a long way off and since buying it I have a slight judder or miss fire mainly felt when cold to check out. I know if I drive 2 hours to the dealer it wont show itself so wanted to check it out before ringing them. If I set off from cold put on the cruise at a set lowish speed say 40mph then the car misses and hunts a bit and aint 100% smooth? Is this normal with the PD engine or is it a fault? Seems ok when warm? Its not too bad but thought I'd investigate before the waranty runs out. Also its now done 42k miles from new so I presume a cambelt will be needed too after my warranty runs out? Cheers Harvey

They look great. Will any Audi VW or Ford 5 stud wheel fit ok? Whats the wheel spec you need to ask for ie Offsetts positive or negative and what spec tyres were need to keep the correct rolling radius? Just got a new Gal and would like some better alloys once I wear out my tyres. H

Can anyone supply a picture of the AC pipe that fractures all so often so I can check mine out for damage? Can it be replaced with a flexi pipe to prevent vibration damage? H

Not sure re BTB reference so will look for that but cant find any of the markings with the AUY or ASZ (130) or ASZ1 is meant to be 150ps. My insurer did come up with 150 however as did another reg check so fingers crossed. Harvey

I've Just put some money down for a 55 gal Ghia 150ps for an upgrade from my trusty 110 afn gal. First question is cambelt as its 5 years old in October but 42k miles on it. So should this one be at 60k or 4 to 5 years whatever the miles? I could not locate any proper evidence that its a 150ps ASZ1 spec but their Autotrader reg check confimed it. It did feel a little quicker than a couple of 130's tried so fingers crossed. I looked for the code sticker in the back wheel well and on the cam cover but nothing? Can anyone provide a list of options the 150 had and a list of the specs that were upgraded? Was it just the engine? I notice the two 150 cars I've looked at both had Chrome roof Rails which seem rare? Cheers for now and I hope its a good as I had to pay top wack for it and drive several hundred miles! Harvey

Any chance of some VAG Com screen prints of this process. Which is the component field? Which is the box to check for the G? H

Took the S/H CC switches off and checked the connections and yes the extra black socket was there on the CC side stalk and its connected up ok. No extra sockets on the other side on mine as not computer fitted but the new switches have the stalk controls. I Had the code put in using VAG a while back and not got a version handy as it was on a mates old Laptop as I dont own one. What else controls the CC? Could the switches on the pedals be faulty but not show a problem as no CC has been fitted before? Will my car have the correct pedal switches fitted and where are they exactly for the CC. Remember my car is a 99 MK1 Zetec. Harvey

This would have been for all "Petrol" Gals. All you need for the Tdi's is the switch and the cable. WHAT CABLE??????? I plugged in the switchgear using the same original sockets but is there extra wiring plugs missing I should have? H

Doh! a bit a lateral thinking out side of the box (so to speak) and my PATS problem and only 1 working key is fixed. Top Man A place in York called carboodle do chips for most keys they say when I called with my Gal MK1 key. They may well do mail orders? H

It wont warm up at all in winter if your booster heater under the rear Pass Door floor is not starting up below 10 or 5 degrees? This is most likely reason cars are running too cold and above that temp still slow too as stated. H

The ecu was set as per above and yes I also tried to set it with my non Gen VAG lead. Dont think it gave any testing options however. So could be the switch but recently I saw a Gen CC little silver box for sale on ebay for all Gals so could that be missing as mine had no standard CC? I'm sick of pratting about really and frustrated really after all this time. Hence why I want to test alternative switch gear preferably without the computer options on the left stalk as mine has no computer. 99 Zetec. H