Ginettamad

ECU is not bolted to the side but sat under the top cover on top of the water jacket. Both top covers need removing to access it as the fan one fits under the ECU cover stopping that being removed on its own. Yes it is canbuss readable and I doubt it would be compatable with the earlier cars easily. If a much more common earlier D5W heater would fit the later cars then that option may be possible although with some pratting about. Earlier cars have two sets of wiring leads going to them this has just one etc etc??? Fingers crossed mine is still working and it was frosty this morning! H

Well I spent Saturday morning under the car again and in the process have gone down with bloody Man Flu?? I had to replace a hose I damaged then clamp off the hoses to remove the copper pipe bridge. I only lost about two cup fulls of red anti freeze which I caught in a bowl then filtered and returned. Getting the rebuilt heater back on was quite tricky as fisrtly you need to remember which hose goes to which inlet (thanks to CZ web site pictures for that one)! Once the hoses were on I then found it difficult to line up the hoses and fuel pipe in the correct angles when pushed up into place but after several attempts and lots of swearing and bloody knuckles it went back into position. I used the original hose clamps and was worried they would leak but they seem ok so far as I guess they dont have much pressure behind them. I wired up my Dash switch from the outdoor temp sensor then started up the car then switched the heater on and quickly jumped under the car. The AUX Heater fan started up ok then some promising sparks shot out the exhaust then hey presto its was running again. I then said my prayers hoping it wouldn't leak and after two days running all seems ok. On Vag-com it showed an initial overheat probably due to air in the water system but once the fault was cleared it showed the heater running up to 275 degrees and turning down to the slow speed once the water got to around 72 degrees. So apart from the clean and service as I swapped the ecu from the scrap heater and that seems to have cured mine as I suspected the original VAG 1413 fault re the dosing pump was incorrect as the pump runs fine. It also does not click like the older pumps do for reference. Now I wonder if I can return that scrap heater? Snow forecast but I'm not worried now! H

Much cheaper ones are available on line with free delivery but just wanted to know the OEM specs. None say 900cca for a Galaxy ie normally around 780cca suggesting the ebay ones are bigger than really required (not that that would be a problem). H

Really well done with those pics. I attempted to disassemble my heater earlier this year- its def the same as yours. When I discovered that you had to drain the water/coolant to get it apart I cancelled the whole operation. Mind you I did get a sneak peak through the top cover and discovered that the glow plug was a pre-wired deal. A few months later I borrowed my buddies VAGcom and got a dosing pump error(short circuit). Changed the dosing pump- (scrap dealer, and had to tell him where to look for it!) Still no joy. Questions:- 1) Is the dosing pump wired into the control module in the heater? I'm only assuming it is. 2) any idea where you can buy the control module, 3) Is there much problem refilling the coolant system, with air-locks etc..? Oh, by the way, I have a feeling the module was fried when the back-box of the exhaust was being welded!!!!! N See my other posts re the fault and yes the dosing pump was the error message but that is controlled by the

My original OEM sealed Exide battery has a little window on it which is now showing clear and on its label it says if the window is yellow or clear replace! Cranking is now slowing in the cold weather so its on it way out. So I have had a quick look at batteries recommeded which show quite a range of differing specs so I wonder what spec the original exide was as its lasted 5 years. No specs are printed on the case just what look like part numbers? Specs offered relate to Size 017 or size 100? Amp hours range from 72ah to 88ah? Cold cranking Amps from 680cca to 750cca Three case sizes come up too ie 278mm x 175 x 175High 353mm x 175 x 175H 278mm x 175 x 190H I will now have to measure the Exide one! Prices vary from £59 to over £100 and most give a 4 year guarantee. So basically I want a similar spec to OEM for a reasonable price and long guarantee and high cca but its difficult to choose w/o OEM specs. Anyone? Harvey

Points taken re Battery and yes mine is getting touch and go to start the engine so looking for a new one soon! The D5Z-F is however a completely different machine to the earlier models. Its actually got less parts but a much more complicated and expensive ECU or control unit. It also uses a ceramic Glow Plug which are supposed to never need replacing but people still change em. The burner design, water jacket, fan unit, and sensors are also different. So I'm not sure what the cut off volts would be but on a cold dark frosty morning most would give the battery and alternator hell i.e. Heated Screens both on, lights on, demist on Mirrors etc all at the same time as the AUX heater is trying to heat its Glow Plug which on my bench took around 15 seconds to go red. The suggestions were only theory anyway as just looking for worst case scenarios??? Its too bl--dy cold here to be under my car anyway! Luckily on my run to work I average 70MPH so the engine still warms up but when I come off the motorway the temp gauge goes back down to about 1/4 for town driving at 1 degree C. Harvey

Well I have tested and cleaned my D5Z-F heater sensors and flame mesh although it was stuck in its tube. I have taken sensor resistance measurements but dont know what they all should be but after sourcing a S/H heater I have swapped its ecu onto my heater and put it all back together. Fingers crossed it will work but the S/H heater looked very corroded and used inside so I suspect that one hadn't run for some time either. At least I can send it back to the seller within 3 months if its ecu is no good either. I'll also test the other heaters sensors once thats in bits too. I have also run wires from the outside temp sensor to the dash to fit a Off switch for the Aux Heater to save all the short stop starts stressing the glow plug. Also something to think about is battery power could reduce the way the Aux heater works if the volts are lower than normal. They do sense under or over voltage to shut down and to get that plug hot enough they need a lot of power. Mine is getting low as its been on for 5 years now and the little window has gone clear suggesting replacement? Bet they are not cheap? As its cold and dark after work I'll re-fit the heater at the weekend and see how it goes. Will let you know what happens later. H

Pretty sure my run on pump does not carry on after switch off but maybe its just very quiet? I do here the water rush start when I switch on however so think its running ok. Maybe later cars had a different control system along with the different Aux Heater? Maybe it would run on if my Aux heater was running at switch off but its sat on my workshop bench after a recon! H

Well I have finally got my AUX heater apart and sadly had to snap or grind off several seized in screws to get the top covers off. Even the exhaust bracket was seized and snapped and as my car is only 5 years old with 40K on it I suspect most of you will have the same issues to contend with. The Glow Plug is apparently not such a problem on these units and its hard wired into the main socket. There seems to be very little info on how to test and repair these units but if anyone has TIS or VW parts and repair details to add that would be great. I have gleaned lots of info from Russia and the CZ where the heater must be used most of the year and Ebby dealers are not allowed to help car owners with OEM heaters due to the Ford VW licence agreements. Many other threads discuss the AUX heaters but few refer to this late Model presumably still used in Shrarans and Alhambra’s? Here is the Model number label and the D5Z-F unit is quite different from the earlier models with the cable going into its top not base. Temp sensor from under Wipers 10 degrees switch on. This is what the plug pins look like connecting to the car. This is the main parts showing fan unit, burner,and water jacket casting all cleaned. This is the modern ceramic Glow Plug and the small round water temp sensor or overheat sensor not sure which but it sits in the water jacket? The wire insulation to this sensor has broken down exposing the copper so this could have caused a short which would stop the heater working??? Here is the sealed control unit which are claimed to be the main cause of problems with this D5Z-F heater and around £300 to replace (ridiculous in my view)! So far I have these detail from RU web site Ebby part number 225205002001 The control unit 12B D5Z-F Hydronic II-F MPV VW (5HB 008 885-00) Now are these repairable by stripping away the Silicone water proofing on the PCB???? These are pretty simple interesting machines but as a group we need to be able to access alternative parts for a reasonable prices otherwise we a stuck having to use main stealers who are often not great with Aux Heaters. Harvey

Will see if the alternative part number listed for the D5W-F will fit the D5Z-F can be sourced from a UK Ebby expert I Have found? VW :Nr: 7M3963271E Cost :280

:lol: Below is the 'no help' standard reply that the UK Eberspacher outlet gives to suffering Aux Heater owners trying to fix their problems and run their cars on a budget. I have tried contacting a number of their UK dealers who have similar comments leaving us with little choice but to either buy from the EBay people in Turkey, e-webasto.eu or pay Stealer Prices. So far it seems the ECU could be around

I thought there were tests I could do from the pins in the multi-plug but not 100% Still not got the top screws out yet however? H

Looks like my D5Z-F control is bug-ered too! Is there a replacement upgraded better one to use or am I better just buying a S/H heater for

Well I by passed the temp sensor set the heater running and tested the voltage to the pump and absolutely no voltage at the pump so I decided to remove the heater which was a job to try and my a bypass tube to keep the water in the car. I've now lost about a cup full of red antifreeze so anyone know where I can buy more of it and its make? My heater is a hydronic 11-F D5Z-F. Now slowly soaking in WD40 and trying to get the silly screws out of the brackets and top covers as all rusted and seized. One so far has snapped off but I suspect others will and few of them have moved yet. I wish people would use grease on threads but they don

Thanks for the replies. I'll have a go at disconnecting the pump as you say but as I have to borrow a Laptop to use VAG-Com its a pain to check and re-set the codes for me. Sadly as per the other threads on here with the same message I fear the heater control unit may have gone but not sure if any test will proved that for sure? Maybe a multimeter on the pump connections to see if any pulses are sent? When a get some time I'll remove and clean the heater too. Looks like I'll need a U section of pipe to connect the water pipes to by pass the heater when removed. Anyone got a spare control unit and or Pump to try???

Water pump checked and although very quiet it appears to be working on start up. All connectors removed cleaned and put back. Code cleared again.

Yes but the EBBY heater controls the fuel pump so the pump wont work unless the heater tells it to? What I want to know is all the options where the heater would stop the pump ie Overheat? Electric Water pump not working? Glow plug failureetc etc? H

Just a thought but if the mini water pump has packed up would the heater sense that then cut the fuel pump feed? The heater does not get warm or fire up but the AUX Heater fan does run at a low speed on start up? I used to regularly here the Water swish when I turned on the ignition but just realised I've not noticed it for a while? Where is the W Pump on a late model Gal situated? H

Heater worked ok last winter. VAG-com reveals this nice message now? 01413 - Dosing/Metering Pump (V54) 29-00 - Short to Ground Joy, I have had several cold trips below 10 degrees only to find I get the same VAG 01413 fault code re the pump. So I've cleaned and checked all the electrical connections but no joy as yet? It does not say flame out so I presume the glow plug is not at fault? Which fuses should I check as there are a lot under there! Which Relay controls the pump? Can it be repaired and if so how? Suggestions I have read are the expensive control module that pulse feeds the solenoid in the dosing pump need replacing? My hope is that there could be other shut down protection options that stop the pump working but does anyone know this? I dont want to fork out hundreads of pounds for a new ECU controller if something else has stopped the pump? I plan to remove the heater at some point and give it a service as those on boats who use the same heater suggest regular servicing and cleaning. Would any other pump and heater work if I found one at a scrap yard? Mine is a 55 plate so I suspect it will be the later 5KW heater and pump sadly with the dodgy control unit I'm told? Anyone got the Beru Plug part number for the late heater as I've heard of Boaters buying them for around £20 rather than £60??? I'd also like to know how I could add a switch to keep the heater switched off for any short damaging runs and protect the heater in the future. Which wires could be bridged on the the Temp sensor safely? H

Heater worked ok last winter. Joy, I have had several cold trips below 10 degres only to find I get the same VAG 01413 fault code re the pump. So I've cleaned and checked all the electrical connections but no joy as yet? It does not say flame out so I presume the glow plug is not at fault? Which fuses should I check as there are alot under there! What do you mean by the control unit is faulty? Can it be repaired and if so how? Anyone got one of those old fashioned but great radiator blinds that can be raised and lowered from in the car??????????? Harvey

Just checked and mine is the 5000 stereo but not sure which changer I have 6 disc. Hadn't realised it was I.5 din so that complicates things. H

I have a standard 2005 Ghia head unit with CD changer in the rear compartment and would quite like to have a Double din SAT Nav DVD but do you know which would fit and still control the changer? I presume its a VW set up? Many of the Ebay double dins have a great set of features for around

My Gmax set of 4 lowering springs were only

Well Friday night I had a little spare time so I completed my service in around two hours and as you say its generally very easy to do. Service Pictures would be useful in the FAQ but I didn't take any as it was dark Friday night! Much less mess oil wise with those new cartridge style filters until you tip over the sump oil container on yer drive by accident! Her in doors not happy! Removing the lower under windscreen tray was only just possible without removing the wipers plastic upper tray above as that had to be bent upwards hard to remove the lower main tray from under it. I found if you pull the drivers side out first then slide it side ways towards the drivers side to get the other end past the coolant bottle then forward and out. The only reason you need to do this is to make removing the Diesal Filter and pollen filters easier. Getting at the Air filter rear screw is also easier with the tray out as I found after putting it back in and struggling with a badly angled screw driver! The philips head was already damaged from previous dealers trying the get the screw out without taking out the tray I suspect. I just cleaned out the pollen filter with my air line and it takes about half an hour to get it back in properly after upteen tries and a lot of swearing! I wonder how many dealers claim they change these without bothering? If paying for a service make sure you check by looking under the wipers for the new filter. I spent a fair bit of time cleaning out the area behind the tray of leaves and debris again with the air line which comes in useful. I also covered over both strut tops with plastic bags as they hold water which rusts the top nuts and threads to the point where they are impossible to remove without damage. I found this out the hard way with my MK1 when I lowered the suspension and need new top bearings. (All had to be destroyed and replaced.) I certainly dont recommend tipping the old Diesal from one old filter to the new one as you could contaminate it with old debris from the dirty side of the element. The engine tray was intact but several fasteners were missing which again I blame on the previous dealers. So I replaced all 4 M10 bolts and the 2 M10 nuts with Stainless steel items as I wont allow anyone to fiddle under my cars from now on! So since I bought my MK2 gal supposedly serviced it did less than 5000 miles before the service light time ran out so its now been re-set and I will note the miles for next time. My sump has no oil sensor in its base so I guess mine just counts miles rather than tests the oil quality. (I doubt they did a proper job as many of the parts looked older than 4 months). So now all the brakes have been replaced and the service is done I'm happy my car will not let me down over winter hopefully. The

All cables routed and clipped as they were from new. One at the front and one at the back and no damage found anywhere so its odd. 2 days driving and nothing then it comes on for a while then goes off again? I guess using the handbrake pressed the pads in hard enough to change pad pressure but furthur HB use has been fine? I know the Pads are all good matching ferrodo items but suspect a dodgy wear sensor on the rear pad is somehow allowing it to earth? Not too worried so I'll just monitor it. Service next.