Rusty Nail

Hi chazy Firstly welcome to the forum (a bit late I know but better late than never). You shouldn't be put off by bits of piston and rings etc, it just means that things are more interesting and the project may take a little longer. Just think how satisfied you would be if you fixed it and got it going..... Anyway, good luck and enjoy the forum

Hi stevic I would go with the rear washer pipe issue as 'gaznlou' suggested or failing that it must be the blocked scuttle drains. Try those first and take it from there. Good luck

Hi to all Just sat here tonight purusing the forum and whilst doing so I am munching away on a packet of fruit Skittles. I know which ones are my favourite, but which is yours and why? Just a bit of fun, but why don't you vote Cheers :rolleyes:

Hi comhander Do I take cc to mean cruise control? If so - aren't the wipers on the other stalk? Or is it just me?????? :rolleyes:

Hi there Chrissy and welcome I think everyone would agree that this forum is a fantastic source of knowledge and information for all. I know you will benefit as we all do, so use it and enjoy it. :rolleyes:

Hi comhander Sounds to me like the stalk may be the issue. If the front / rear wash & wipe is OK as is the linkage snapping wally mode, then I would say the motor is OK as is the ECU. I'm sure its a pig but I would start looking under the steering cowl for loose or damaged plugs etc. Have fun

Hi Bobski I'm with davewill on this one. Having large hands, I find it easier to drop the headlight unit out. It only takes a few mins and you can easilly access all the lamps. I would advise fitting LED sidelight lamps as they last forever (alledgedly) so you won't have to change them ever again.

It depends on the breakers, reputable ones cost a bit more but should guarantee the parts as working (may only be a short guarantee but long enough to get it checked out). Recon is next best as should be tested etc and guaranteed, else loadsa wonga for the new. The choise is usually wallet dependant (I know it is in my world).

I thought compressors costed upwards of

Hi steyve and welcome I have only been on here a short while myself but have found all to be very friendly and helpful. Enjoy your Gal

I too have just purchased a VagCom lead from the bay - coming from China in the next week - month - year, if it ever gets here that is. I only paid

Hi Banjo-Kipper Great name Welcome to the forum. From my experience, they are a nice friendly bunch, with a great deal of experience and are good with sugestions too. If you need any help on here - just ask. Most things are sortable. Anywell, welcome and enjoy

Hi gregers You say it's something to do with the heating - is the noise related to fan on / heated screens on etc? Could it be alternator drive belt squeal due to increased electrical load? Just a thought.

Update time. CV's arrived at 8:10 this morning, but had been repackaged by TNT as there was a problem with the consignment at some point. During this problem a tube of grease went AWOL and all the gater clips were bent. This meant onlt 1 could be fitted until replacement bits arrive. I set about the task in the garage which was lucky as it had just started to snow. The hardest part of the dissasembly was splitting the lower ball joint mount from the hub assy. It was only stuck but a bit of a pig to break free. Once all was free and the centre bolt removed, a supprising amount of water came out from within the gater. Good job I was replacing the whole lot. Whole job took just over an hour with cleaning up (that grease gets bloody everywhere) which I didn't think was bad for a bloke with a broken leg! One down; which is all I needed for the MOT, and one to go at my leisure. I would recommend to anyone that if a gater does split and there is any question of how long it has been split for, that they change the whole CV as it is less work than stripping, cleaning and replacing the gater and grease alone. So there we go. Tools used :- Jack + Axel stand 19mm, 27mm 1/2" sockets 18mm combination spanner 5mm, 6mm, 8mm Allen key/socket Ball joint splitter 1/2" Torque wrench and long handle T-bar (155Nm + 90 degrees for the hub nut) Nylon Mallet Junior hacksaw (for cutting off the old gater clips) Large pincers (for tightenng the Gater clips) Torch - 'tis dark under there Plenty of rags to clean up with. Have fun..

It would prob be cheaper to buy VAGcom and check the system out yourself rather than buy 4 new sensors and have all of that hassle. Also, if you have VAGcom you can check all futute issues (bound to be some with a Ford) and diagnose them too.

Yep Cheers

Good call Rather you than me though. :lol:

Ok then, Putting all the above together I would conclude this: The engine warmed up during your drive, you parked so the engine wouldn't be generating nearly as much heat as when under load. The water continued to circulate heating the car, but in the proccess the heat exchanger would naturally be cooling the water so the temp guage would drop as per big kevs reply. Once you set off again, the engine heating returns and so the guage rises. Any good to you?

Hi there Just a quick question. Does you car have parking sensors? The reason I ask is that I know on mine that if you have engaged the parking sensors they will automatically disengage at approx 16mph. If you have had wiring issues, I was wondering if there was a back feed from this function causing the lamp to illuminate. Just a thought - probably of no help but hey, you never know.

Hi gregers Did you have the engine running whilst you were waiting? That would make all the difference I'm sure

Hi there Can I ask two questions, 1) Which vehicle is it 2) Do any of the wipers work at all? I had a problem where the wipers refused to work at all up front or the rear, but then the rear would work if you used the rear washer. This turned out to be a simple fuse problem. There are two different fuses in the fuse board that control the wipers, and of course it was the second less obvious one. The two you need to look at (on a Mk II Gal) are 24 and 33 Fuse 24 is the main wiper power, Fuse 33 supplies the switch to control the wiper ecu. If these two are both OK then sorry but I cannot help you. Good luck

I'm sure that method only works on large 'pushed in' type dents and not dings. The expansion / contraction of the metal on a smaller dent would not be sufficient to ping it back out. Does anyone know how rapid application of the extremes of temperature affects the paint? :lol:

Thanks comhander. I missed the delivery of mine yesterday, TNT promised to re-deliver today but failed, so after a moan I am meant to be getting them before 9.00 tomorrow - we shall see. If they do arrive, I shall try and fit them tomorrow and will let you know how it all goes. Just in case anyone was wondering - a new genuine Ford gater for the CV from the stealers at staff discount is nigh on

Looks different and may well work, but like 'adrianf' I'm not sure I would use it. I suppose, on the bright side though, if you did get it and it didn't work, you wouldn't see the dent anymore as you would have a great big pulling cup glued to your boot :lol: Can you not get in from behind and 'work' the dent out?

Thank you 'Beyond Help?' As soon as the joints arrive I shall set to the task. I have all the required tools (jack, stands etc) as I have spent way to many hours 'fixing' cars and bikes over the last bluuuggghh years, just thought I would check re special requirements as I can't find my TIS CD at the mo. I shall update with my findings as and when. Cheers