Rusty Nail

Hey there all. I must have got things a bit wrong..... I had my wipers stick tonight so I stripped the mechanism out, worked the siezed spindle out of the casing using a little heat, release agent and a little brute force and ignorance. I cleaned out the casing of old grease and corrosion, cleand as best I could the pitted and partially chrome-less shaft, re-assembled using a molybdenum based assembly grease (designed for bearing/bushes etc). I then fitted the whole lot back in place, all without loosing or breaking anything. I then tested it. All worked better than I remember them ever working, all done in 2.5 hrs and whilst watching TV. I then decided to check this forum for any info and came accross this thread ------- :rolleyes: Would have thought I'd have learnt by now - check here first - much easier. Great thread, loads of useful ideas, and it must be a good conteder against the 'booster heater' for length :o Enjoy

Is it just me or does everyone think that these Aux heaters are more trouble than there worth. Itr seens everyone has trouble with them at some point or other. Mine is working at the mo, but for how long is anyones guess... :-)

Stick some big rubber blocks (3" cube) on them and use them as buffers. or Use a lump hammer and persuade them in. :16: That's gunna look real nice ....... why not just fit a bull bar and mount the sensors under the 6 8" spot lights......

I would go with the masses and change the small fuse box and alternator lead. I did! It doesn't take long, doesn't cost much and I'm sure it will solve your issues. The problem is within the crimp of the main cable from the alternator and the fuse box. The elements get to the the fuse box crimped end causing a higher resistance and so the cable heats up (vicious circle starts). This can cause the fuse box to melt as mine did, and or cause bad connections all round from this point as the fuse links become loose or worse - and it's the main point between the battery and alternator. Not all of this with the damage is visually noticeable and so will need checking with a DMM as per turk90210's post Good luck and be quick.....

Hey Ben2001 Your sensors are deep. I have a set of FIAM sensors that are about 16mm deep (0.65 inch) from the back face to the bezel. Then all there is is the 3mm cable that protrudes prom the bottom edge so max depth 19mm or 3/4 inch. I bought a cheap set of 4 sensors for Out-Laws car from ebay and those sensors were similar depth. Try these (or similar colour) as these are the same as the Out Laws. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wireless-Parking-Rev...=item5635c9d071 Cheers

Hey there guys (and gals) I have just had to strip my aux heater after it failed to spin into life this year. I VAG COM'd and had a Open Circuit Glow Plug. I was most intruiged by this as Fraud had only replaced it (allegidly) about 2 1/2 years back. My first suspition was that they hadn't actually replaced it and just reset a fault to get it going again (I don't trust the stealers...) Anyway I was wrong; I found the glow plug to be fine and it had been replaced as you could see where some bodge artist had soldered the new lead in. I checked the connectors and re-fitted everything (using a touch of high temp grease on all bolts just in case I had to take it all apart again) before starting it up. Outside temp is 3 degrees, so off it went - YEY :lol: Then it stopped just as it got really going. VAG COM stated over temperature. Hmmmm So I reset, re- scanned, and off it went again, only to stop. Grrrrrr After checking the codes again it had 2 faults - Open Glow plug & Over temperature. I checked the input pipe to check I hadn't pushed it too far into the sill, checked the external connector again, reset the faults and re-tried. IT WORKED. Took the car round the block and all was good, VAG COM showing max working temp at about 315 degrees and it shut down when the water temp was showing 70 degrees. Luckily it restarted properly again when the water temp dropped. I have check all codes and there are no faults - I shall update should things go 'pu stit' again. Enjoy your aux heater - I know I just love it...... when it works :16:

I agree - would suffer less from stress....

Glowplugs are different. If you read up on the above mentioned threads, several suggest Seat dealers are cheapest. You could always try Eurocarparts.com

Hi Barry Depends on which model (Zetec/Ghia) Gal you have wether you need the 90 or 120A unit. The Ghia (as mine) requires the 120A because of the additional electrics Eurocarparts quote mine as - Lucas Alternator Part Number: 401442431

Hi Mirez I thought that my Gal actually had reasonable Bass for a standard system, but thats not to say I wouldn't like a little more.... I did see a Alambra at a car thingy a few years back which had a sub and amp fitted in the rear right stowage panel in the boot. I think the CD changer had been removed (fancy head unit fitted) which freed up some space. It sounded damn good but was a lot of work. I'm still strugling to work out why my fader just stopped workin about a year ago? Never mind, can't often hear much over the roar of the monsters behind me... :D

That most prob will be the air bag connectors. Just out of interest, do you know if the Seat aux battery connectors are under there? If your control module for the heater has thrown in the towel, that may be why you're not getting a reply. Have you tried bridging out the aircon gas pressure sensor (not sure where it is) and then clearing the aircon low pressure fault code to see if that stops the aircon display flashing on startup?

Hi Jayton This is how I did it.... 1) Started the laptop 2) Pluged the lead into the car 3) Switched on the ignition 4) Pluged into the laptop (make sure you always use the same USB port as you did when configuring the VAG-COM software and the com 3 setup) 5) Start VAG-COM 6) Perform test (should take only 1-2 seconds) 7) Save 8) Enter module 18 Mine took only a few seconds to register the module and be able to look at fault codes. I read the codes, printed them and also saved them Hope this helps mate Cheers :lol:

By jove - COM 3 does it again Thank you Jayton - now to find the open circuit glow plug and sort it out Cheers

Thanks Jayton. I will ive it a go a min and let you know what happens.

Good evening all. I have had a similar experience with my VAG-COM. I bought a

Waste of time. Silica gel is hygroscopic - it takes moisture out of the air. Once they are damp they are useless unless you dry them out again. Unless you could make the bin liners completely air tight moisture would eventually get in anyway. I Concur - mine are just put in the garage under an old sheet and have been fine over the last 3 years....

Hi there Whitty I had a similar issue a while back, and there are two possible issues. 1) I posted - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...mp;#entry128728 which covers the alternator pully 2) The alternator warning light is most likely triggered by a bad connection caused by the melting of the fuse box just above the NSF headlight. I had to replace the alternator supply cable and the fuse box (takes about 30mins max) and since then I havn't witnessed the return of the warning light. Hope this is of some help Russ

Hi Dewsy My post is listed under : Ford Galaxy Owners Club > MKI and MKII Galaxy specific area. > Technical Section (Galaxy) Post title: Alternator Pulley Annihilation, What is that squealing?? Hope it helps Cheers

Hi Dewsy Not sure if this helps but I had a similar sounding issue, I will find my post and get back to you Cheers

Hi there King o and welcome to the forum. Certainly sounds as if the clutch is slipping (judging by the drop off of the cruise) but a faulty clutch at 30K is unusuall. Fraud are very good at not wanting to pay for things. I'm sure other members have had sinilar dealings so will be able to help you further. Good luck

I know this topic has been around for a while but this occurance was new to me. I have had the stereotypical juddering of the PAS at idle for a while, and was just waiting for 'right time' to sort it out. A week last Wednesday a squealing appeared from the engine bay at anything below 1700rpm so I took it as being the alternator belt tensioner bearing having failed from the abuse the aternator pulley seizure would have inflicted. I took this as a sign (seeing as I was going on holiday on the Sunday)and ordered a new tensioner, belt and alternator pulley from Frauds on the Thursday. On the Friday lunchtime, the squealing was accompanied by the lovelly smell of burning rubber. I took this as being the tensioner bearing having seized and the belt rubbing. After picking up the parts later that day and removing the tensioner, I compared it with the new item and found it to be in full working order and within the same tollerances as the new item. The fault led firmly at the door of the alternator pulley. After removing the alternator it became obvious that the formally seized pully had completely self destructed internally. The burning smell was the pulley bearing end cover being melted by bits of red hot bearing being spat out. The squealing was from the bearing not being able to drive the alternator under load and also the pulley rubbing on the alternator housing. I had to weld round both edges of the bearing end plate to enable me to clamp the pulley in the vice and undo the alternator spindle using the spline drive. Total reassembly was completed in about 10 minutes with the new belt fitted and the old tensioner. All is quiet now and the tensioner much more stable. An easy enough fix for just over

Great pic Mk2vr6. In reference to the above pic; The big question is, why would you want to put smaller tyres on your rims? Having to stretch the sidewalls so distorting the tyre, affecting ride, wear and handling, also exposing your expensive precious rims to damage from kerbs, stones etc??? Can't quite see the attraction myself, but each to thier own I guess. PS. Gregers, by reducing the width, you will also be reducing the diameter too (as the sidewall hight is a percentage of the tread width), but not enough to worry about though... :lol:

Hi quint I would go with the drive shaft too. Have a search and see which posts fit your scenario best Good luck

When I sold my last car, I took the parking sensor kit off, and superglued some plastic blanking gromets in place, they looked the part and even the jet wash didn't budge them. Can you get to the back of the sensor and use a rubber open gromet slid ovrt the casing to hold it in place? Just a thought.

Hi Brian Are the Avons ZV3's? If so, they are the ones I have on the front at the mo. Nice looking tyre, handle well, good in the wet, BUT, and it is a sizable but IMHO, mine are nigh on gone after 12K of pootling round on the school run, shopping and very occasional motorway use. Also do check on fitting charges for tyres as I have done some checks, and nearly fell off my seat with laughter when 'Bathwick Tyres' quoted me