MrT

Oddly enough mine did this years ago when I put a new dodgy MAF in. I was going quite quick up the A1 and I thought I had hit something when this happened, the engine serously over-revved. I had my laptop with me (and the old MAF). When I read the fault codes, they came up with MAF-Inplausible reading and gearbox-overtorque. I cleared the faults but this happened again at lower speeds after a few miles and I stopped at the next services and put the old MAF back in. I have absolutely no idea how a faulty MAF could do this to a gearbox but it was something simple and totally unrelated so you may not have as serious an issue as first appears. It has never happened since.

Some work well on Vista and some do not. The leads which rely on the Prolific USB-serial convertor chip have a lot of data flow connection problems with some machines and work perfectly well on others. The other FTDI USB-Serial chipset based lead is far more stable. Windows7-x64 is even trickier and to get the older versions of VAG-COM to work you need to run it under WindowsXP virtualisation mode.

The problem with the rear chrome strip is that you have to buy the number plate light holder that takes it, as there is a recess cut in it to which the chrome strip fits which is not present on the original. This comes in primer grey and needs painting. It might have changed in later models, but I had to buy both bits for mine and paint the holder. The mounting tags on the chrome strip are very weak and break off if you insert and remove it too many times.

The leads vary a lot in the USB to serial conversion chip used in them. There are two fairly common types of chips used, the more common Prolific which most USB-Serial converters use and the FTDI. The Prolific chip from my experience will work on one laptop and not on another and seems particularly error prone with VAG-COM. With the Prolific on a variety of PCs and software builds I can access most of the devices on the Galaxy with the exception of the engine and autobox where I get numerous synch errors. Using a standard serial port or an FTDI based USB lead, I can access all devices. I have also found that the Prolific drivers can cause issues on Vista and Windows7 machines where other software monitors USB ports/devices for activity. Windows Mobile and TomTom Homerunner being two applications that spring to mind. These clashes happen even when the Prolific device is not plugged in. I can scan the following addresses on my Galaxy: 7M,Ford Galaxy,01,02,03,08,09,15,17,19,33,3F,45,46,56,76 I have the airbag included as mine is not one of the range that have potential issues.

Thanks, looks like I will have to put a little LED in front of the cluster.

It seems odd but I am sure I used to have a green dipped headlight warning indicator in my instrument cluster? It may be just I am more used to driving the Focus with auto headlamps now but several times recently in the Galaxy in poor visibility daytime driving I have had the dipped headlamps either on or off when I have expected them to be the other way or just had side lights on. It is obvious from the switch position, but that is not in your immediate line of sight when driving and I may have sides on when I expect dipped as sides light up the instrument cluster and switches.

I think the run on pump is on a timer rather than temperature as mine will start on the ignition without the engine being started and cold and runs for some time. They get noisier as they get older and worn.

I have seen this before when one of the door/bonnet/lock position sensors does not detect that something is closed. If not everything reports locked, the lights do not flash and you get a different pattern to the red door LED flash. It could be that the seized lock is not moving on electronic locking and the system still thinks the lock is open. This will also be why the alarm goes off. Check you have no door opening warnings on your console, but this is not always correct as on this car some of the switches have two sets of contacts and sometimes the console lies about which door is open. The wiring harness to the doors or rear boot could be worn or broken where they enter the door/frame. As you have a seized lock, I would suggest looking in this area first.

Check the relay and also double check the fuses as the handbook description does not always match the fusebox fitted. On the lid of the box there is either an embossed or stick-on fuse description which should match the box. The fusebox/relay box is several layers deep.

The engine management light can be brought on by many things including virtually anything that effects emissions. On mine it had been brought on by a dodgy MAF and failing coil packs causing a misfire. You really need an electronic code reader which will tell you exactly what the fault codes are that are causing this. You can buy a simple handheld reader that just downloads the codes, you then look up the code and it will clear the code. If you want to spend a little more you can go for a computer based reader with a connecting lead such as VAG-COM. If you buy a reader it needs to be for Volkswagen-Audi-Seat system rather than a Ford as the Galaxy Mk2 does not use the Ford system. You can look at: VAG-COM or you can phone these people for advice and buy from them, good prices and next day delivery: Tall to my car There are many other suppliers as well.

I recently had a fault on the Focus (Mk3) where my sons feet knocked off one of the connectors on the bottom of the fusebox which disabled the outside temperature gauge, bonnet closed sensor and several other bits. I reconnected the connector and all is working again except it has left the engine managment light on. Is there a simple way to clear this light without paying a dealer? I have VAG-COM and an X-Two lead for the Galaxy but this does not like the Focus and whilst the OBD-II test detects the module it is not compatible. I don't want to buy similar for the Focus again just for a simple light reset.

The interior lights have an electronic timer controller which I seem to remember is in the relay box and this could be playing up. Your battery voltage seems very low. When my battery died it would start the car but it would go flat in minutes if any lights were left on or if I ran the radio whilst cleaning it. I don't know if you are on the original battery but I would expect it to be dying by now, mine lasted about 5-6 years (25000M). I can remember unusual electrial behaviour when my battery died, the interior lights would play up, the doors would lock themselves a few seconds after opening them and I got false worn brake pad warnings.

When my heated screen was replaced the job was not done properly. The screen (assuming it has not changed recently -MK2 circa 1992) has two 12V contacts with large spade connectors half way up each side of the windscreen behind the pillar covers. These are usually connected OK. However at the top centre of the screen there is a plastic strip with copper wires (looks like a PCB connecting cable) which goes to an earth stud attached to the roof. On mine they damaged the stud and did not make proper contact to earth with this plastic/copper strip. I suggest you look behind the roof light unit and ensure that there is a good earth contact here. If you measure the voltage on this copper strip when the screen is on, it should remain at 0Volts but if there is a bad earth, it will rise towards 12V. A bad contact here may also show burning marks on this strip. If this is OK, check the voltage at each side of the screen, there should be 12V at each side connector when it is on, if you don't have the 12V the fault is elsewhere, probably in the wiring or timer/relay area. As the screen has two sets of elements it is unlikely that both sides would go at once, the only common part being the central earth connection. A pont to note is that when testing the screen the engine must actually be running otherwise the screen will not work, just having the ignition turned on does not have the screen powered on. This is from memory from around 8 years ago and I seem to remember posting details here about it then, so have a search and see if anything else comes up on this topic.

Normally when the compressor seizes, the pulley on the end will still turn so as long as you make sure the compressor clutch is not also seized and remove the wire to it (so it does not engage) you should not need to remove the compressor until you are ready to replace it.

The brake light switch on the pedal or the cable sticking that runs to the ignition lock are two possible causes. When in Park there should be a light in the dash the looks like a circle with a pedal in it, this should go out when you put your foot on the brake and come on again a few seconds after you release the brake pedal if you do not put it in gear. If this does not happen suspect the brake pedal switch. This brake switch needs to work before the gearbox will move from Park. You should also hear a relay or solenoid type click from the gearbox area when you press the pedal. There is also a bowden type mechanical cable that runs between the ignition lock and the gearbox which prevents you removing the key when in gear and I think it also works the other way around, check this is not stuck. After this you need to look at the other parts of the interlocking mechanism or the gearbox controls.

You no doubt had the faulty coil packs and it is quite likely by moving them around or just pulling the cables that you disturbed them. Part of the fault is that the units start to break apart where the long thin bit enters the black electonics bit and removing them could easily hasten this happening. I would (and did) replace the whole lot.

It would be quicker for you to search the forum as this and simlar issues have been discussed many times before. As a guide the MAF seems to make little difference to performance in petrol cars compared to diesels but it will have small effects on fuel/air ratios. If it runs better if disconnected it sounds faulty but there could be other reasons. There are many cheap Chinese made MAFs masquerading as original parts on ebay - I bought one and it made things far worse. I am not sure on your engines version but for mine you can buy the electronics part (from VW or GSF) of the MAF rather than the whole unit which saves a bit of money. You could use VAG-COM of a simlar Ford compatible reader (not sure which one for your engine) and look at the MAF readings and see if they are within limits.

When I have had to get my disabled mother into the Galaxy I have found it useful to carry one of the four legged plastic steps/stands about 20cm high with about a 30x20cm top which she uses to step up. In the rear of the car the legs of the front headrests make a good handgrip to pull yourself in. Also the inner armrest on the chair is useful to stop you falling across the vehicle as you manouver yourself in. In the front having the seat low and the steering wheel high makes access easy.

I disconnected the plug from the light switch then swapped the rear and front fog light contacts within the plug so when I pull out the switch one notch the rear fogs go on and two notches both. The dash warnings still work as normal. I did this because I have found a greater need for the rear fogs than the front fogs. I have heard rumours that on BMWs there is an option for front fog lights to permanently wired on as the drivers want to draw attention to the fact that they have bought an overpriced car and want to be noticed driving it. :lol:

It should not run continuously under all conditions, the climate control will tell it when it needs to run and it can run with the heating on and the screen demist button on the climate control specifically does this. You should normally leave it in AUTO and adjust the temperature to suit. If the AUTO goes from the display when you change a setting too far, it is no longer in AUTO mode. I would check that it does turn off when set to ECON and if it does, it is unlikely that anything is wrong.

The brake pedal is linked into the light failure sensor as I have the warning until I first press the brake pedal. I thought this was to do with the auto box lock out but am not really sure on this.

As above you only get chilled air in the back if you have air vents in the roof above the rear seats..

The air con system has a high pressure and a low pressure side, when the system is running the compressor takes from the low pressure side and pumps to the high pressure side which increases the pressure in the high pressure side and reduces it in the low. This is why when the system kicks in the pressure in the low pressure side is seen to drop. The pressure gauge is meant to be read when the system is running. The pressure gauge also shows the pressure not the volume in the system so whilst they are related, it is not accurate. When my condensor leaked it also worked when cold but not when hot although the leak on mine was due to corrosion at the top of the receiver dryer part. According the manuals the front end of the car needs to be removed to get the condensor out, but a little cutting of the plastic bulkhead in front to allow the mounts to be removed is a very good workaround which saves a lot of time. There used to be photos of doing this on this site. I seem to remember the condensor cost me a little over

I think this is something to do with the unit that cuts off electrical power to various devices on a timer which is triggered by events such as removing the key or locking the car or even battery undervoltage. I would guess that the fuse or supply to this has gone? Do you have problems with the interior lights which have a delay timer? The car also goes into a greater sleep mode when it has not be used for a certain number of days. I cannot be more specific but it is somewhere in this area.