Ivor_E_Tower

Engine and year? I take it, by 1200 limit, you mean that the engine won't rev over 1200rpm - in which case this seems more drastic than a limp-home failure.

The build quality issue is an interesting one. Various surveys, reports and forums give different results from owners; some claim that Galaxy trim stands up better to wear and tear, others that VW trim stands up better. This is despite the fact that all are built in the same factory using largely the same parts! I take it that all the seat trim materials are the same. The dashboard mouldings are different on the upper dash, and I suppose that the door trim panels are largely the same. I therefore wonder how some people claim that their trim is more durable - is it psychological or is it down to whether or not their kids/passengers kick the trim to death when travelling in the vehicle?

..and again, refer to the posting "Galaxy running really well" (or similar). Since mine was serviced and the aircon fixed, it too is running really well - so much so, that now when stopped at traffic lights, I have to check the rev counter to make sure that the engine is still running! It's vibration-free and it's gone very quiet - even with aircon running and no noisy kids on board.

That's not as big an ouch as from us belt-drive camshaft owners! We have to look at

* Back to original question: Timing chains should be good for at least 100,000 miles, if not the life of the engine. So long as the oil is changed at recommended service intervals, you should have no worries. You should get plenty of warning if it needs attention - certain metallic noises will start to occur! There is always the chance that the chain can break, but this is much, much less than the risk of a timing belt snapping.

Ah yes - remember now - place I used to work at, bloke on next desk to me had this problem with a Volvo 850 petrol auto. A good clean of the throttle body assemby fixed his stalling problem so this must be worth a try.

'twas cut and paste (plus I have printed it, although I hope never to have to use it!)

Reminds me of my parents' car from many years ago - single carb auto; often needed to adjust the idle speed in the summer. With modern electronic systems, adjusting the idle speed isn't as simple as half-a-turn on a readily-accessible screw under the bonnet though. Sounds like an electronic problem somewhere - incorrect or wrong signal from something, or incorrect idle speed being requested.

Any idea of how many vehicles may be affected, and build dates?

Don't know if the aircon is the same type as fitted to the Audi A2, but I've just found this on another car help site and it may be relevant:Thanks to the Audi A2 owners club site for this: - Accessing On-Board Diagnostic codes: Press and hold the recirculation button. Then press the manual flow control up arrow. You should see a 1c. Press the temperature up ("+") or down ("-") buttons to select a code number. Then press the recirculation button again. The value should display. Press the temperature up or down button again to display another code. NOTE: Air Flow Motor (V 71) and Potentiometer (G 113) are not installed in USA/Canada vehicles. Disregard values displayed for these components. - Code Displayed Value: 1 System malfunction - displayed as a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), see chart below 2 Digital value of Interior Temperature Sensor, in Headliner (G 86) 3 Digital value of Interior Temperature Sensor, in Instrument Panel (G 56) 4 Digital value of Fresh Air Intake Duct Temperature Sensor (G 89) 5 Digital value of Outside Air (Ambient) Temperature Sensor (G 17), front 6 Digital value of Outside Air (Ambient) Temperature Sensor 7 Digital value of Ambient Temperature Sensor At Fresh Air Blower (G 109) 8 Digital value of Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 92) 9 Delta value of Temperature Regulator Flap 10 Non-corrected specified value of Temperature Regulator Flap 11 Digital value of Central Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 112) 12 Specified value of Central Flap 13 Digital value of Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 114) 14 Specified value of Footwell/Defroster Flap 15 Digital value of Air Flow Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 113) 16 Specified value of Air Flow Flap 17 Vehicle Speed (km/h) 18 Actual Air Blower voltage (Volts) 19 Specified Fresh Air Blower voltage (Volts) 20 A/C Compressor (A/C Clutch) voltage (Volts) 21 Number of low voltage occurrences, non-transient 22 Cycle condition of A/C Refrigerant High Pressure Switch (F 118) 23 Cyclings of the A/C Refrigerant High Pressure Switch (F 118) 24 Cyclings of the switches, absolute non-fluctuating 25 Analog/Digital value, Kick-Down Switch 26 Analog/Digital value, Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Warning Light 27 Coding value 28 Engine Speed (RPM) 29 A/C Compressor speed in rpm (Equals Engine Speed x 1.28) 30 Software version 31 Display check (all segments of A/C Control Head display light up) 32 Potentiometer malfunction counter, Temperature Regulator Flap 33 Potentiometer malfunction counter, Central Flap 34 Potentiometer malfunction counter, Footwell/Defroster Flap 35 Potentiometer malfunction counter, Air Flow Map 36 Feedback value, cold end-stop, Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 92) 37 Feedback value, hot end-stop, Temperature Regulator Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 92), max. stop 38 Feedback value, cold end-stop, Central Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 112) 39 Feedback value, hot end-stop, Central Flap Motor Potentiometer (G 112) 40 Feedback value, cold end-stop, Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer (G114) 41 Feedback value, hot end-stop, Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor Potentiometer (G114) 42 Feedback value, cold end-stop, Air Flow Map Motor Potentiometer (G 113) 43 Feedback value, hot end-stop, Air Flow Map Motor Potentiometer (G 113) 44 Vehicle operation cycle counter 45 Calculated interior temperature (internal software, in digits) 46 Outside (ambient) temperature, filtered, for regulation (internal software) 47 Outside (ambient) temperature, unfiltered, (internal software, in deg C) 48 Outside (ambient) temperature, unfiltered, (in digits) 49 Malfunction counter for speedometer (vehicle speed) signal 50 Standing time (in minutes) 51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) in deg C 52 Graphics channel 1 - A/C compressor switch-off conditions are identified by illuminated segments of the

5 or 6? Is it a standard Torx driver that you need? If so, readily available from all good tool and accessory shops - even Argos/Index sell them, I think.

On normal systems, the vent on the rear wheel arch is fed from the blower unit for the aux heater (if diesel engined vehicle); with climate control, you can operate the fan using the rear fan buttons on the A/C panel, but it will just blow air around inside the car - there is no separate airconditioned outlet. If you have dual aircon, cold air comes from the extra vents in the roof headlining.

Take a Galaxy and a C8 for a test-drive; see which you prefer and if there are any major annoyances. Study vehicles and brochures/spec sheets, identify any items that you really MUST have - such as rear parking sensors etc - check if these are standard or options (or not available). Consider depreciation and likelihood of re-selling a few years down the line - if you want to. Take into account likely problem areas (did I hear someone say Galaxy air conditioning?), ease of obtaining, and price, of replacement parts. You are now in a place to make a reasoned decision. Most of us on this site came out in favour of the Galaxy!! Good luck - and whatever you choose, you won't be wrong. Ivor

You will need to check that the USA system uses suitable satellites to show your position in the UK! If it uses a different set of satellites, you will not get any positional fix in the UK. Maybe someone with more detailed knowledge will give additional info, but I think you will have problems.

Impossible to tell without examination. I have heard of a similar problem with an old BW 3-speed auto that was in top on a motorway and suddenly decided to change to 2nd. Never found out what caused it, but owner was very wary of cruising at speed after this event..... Hope that your engine wasn't damaged by over-revving too.

Not all faults are reported/logged by the software - for instance when my system played up, notified by flashing lcd display on control panel, second visit to garage changed condenser etc but compressor was not working. The display did not flash after this part of the repair, even though the system was obviously not working.

Could be stuck valve in heater. Try setting to max heat, then max cold, then max heat and then max cold again - leave for about 1 minute at each setting. If this doesn't produce some sort of alteration in the air temp, then something is drastically wrong. Have you checked fuses? Good luck - hope you can sort it without another trip to the garage. (why is the aircon system soooooo unreliable?)

Thule bars and fixing kit to fit the standard roof rails cost about

I have a problem with the rear wiper on my Gal - it makes the "outgoing" sweep OK, starts the return journey but stops about 15 deg into the arc, waits about 1 second then continues OK. I've just learnt to live with it.

Maverick = Terrano II (this may help a little bit)

Why do you want to change the autobox oil? You shouldn't ever need to do this. You should also only need to top up if you have had a leak or other misfortune - perhaps that's why it is not mentioned in the manual.

Great shots - like the one of the undertray you took for me a few months ago. What camera are you using? I take it that you are using the flash?

Have you checked the fluid level in the box? Did the problem start suddenly, or has it been doing this occasionally for a while?

Yes - but not into a Galaxy's auto box. SA Intruder isn't going to like this (?!) - I used a funnel and topped up through the same tube that takes the dipstick. This was the approved/recommended way. Basically you should not need to top up an auto box fluid unless there was been a leak or other strange occurrence. Neither, normally, should you need to change the fluid in an auto box.

First simple check: make sure that kickdown button under the throttle pedal is not jammed by a floormat. Does this happen every time you accelerate from rest, whether gentle or violent acceleration?