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Posted
Thanks for the very detailed strip-down. Did mine tonight and replaced the relay, ford charged me £25, even though the garage near where i work said it would be about £15 but they didn't have one. The beast now starts, so fingers crossed, I hope i don't have to re-solder like someone has posted, still it was not exactly a doddle but with your help I did it! Thank you again, regards, Steve.
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Posted
hiya guys, at a real loose end. Could really do with some help. i have a ford galaxy 2.3 ghia t reg.
form the begiining.
i was driving on motorway and then power went. everything stopped and got it to side of road. Tried starting it and it turned over nicely but no firing up. The aa came out and kept trying and they found there was no power to the fuel pump switch (ineartha). towed it to a ford dealers in bishops stortford and they had it for 18 days. They removed the aftermarket alarm and checked the relays. the car now doesn't even turn over but this could be the battery cos nothing works in the car now. After 18 days they wanted to charge me £1800 for diagnosis fee. told them to swivel as they hadnt diagnosed it. got the car back home and searched online. Relay 30 kept coming up so i ordered one and replaced it. charged the battery up after it being dead for 2 monthes. The fuel pump now makes a sound but still not turning over. Theres power to the starter motor and i gave the coil a little knock but still nothing.
Tried jump starting and no turning over. Tried bump starting and nothing again. Ford left all the fuse box hanging down so i can get to all the relays. checked them all, all the fuses are fine. checked cables, fine. Had a look at the ignition barrel and it seems it has been changed. as turn the key one click, two click and then third click makes a spark sound.
I.m literally at a loose end and really don't want to get rid of the car as its not worth much scrap and its the first car i really enjoy driving. Please any advice or help would be greatly apprteciated. Thank you and look forward to the replies
  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...
Posted

i had the same prob ,, i looked on here and saw the relay 30 post but i was thinking it cant be that as my car ir not turning over... all i can say is thanks to the gay who posted the pic help me out thanks ,,,, look at the how to remove relay 30 post get the relay out like i did and resolder it all the solder on it i did run fab  [attachment=6433:972109_10151969709982454_785779629_n.jpg][attachment=6434:47040_10151969709882454_960947221_n.jpg]

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

i had the same prob ,, i looked on here and saw the relay 30 post but i was thinking it cant be that as my car ir not turning over... all i can say is thanks to the gay who posted the pic help me out thanks ,,,, look at the how to remove relay 30 post get the relay out like i did and resolder it all the solder on it i did run fab  attachicon.gif972109_10151969709982454_785779629_n.jpgattachicon.gif47040_10151969709882454_960947221_n.jpg

Thanks to mickdon from me.

Today I did get my 1999 galaxy 2.3 which did run fine the 1st few miles (30 miles) but after parking the car at a store, it did not wanted to start.

someone passing by told me it was the cam / rail sesor or something, and that after cooling-off for 2 hours it most of the time works again. I did find this also as common issue, but the blinking led in my door pointed to the relay 30.

 

so I tried to find that, but did not know how to access it (I have no manual nothing with the car, so if someone knows where to find the documentation of my 1999 2.3 ghia X..) with the images posted by Mickdon I was able to see how to reach the relays, and opened the relay. i notices a loose contact. and tried the relay without its case, and by moving it a little i could start again, sadly when releasing it stopped again. but at least i know it could work.

I was in front of a Range store do did buy a soldering iron and solder. but was not allowed to use it in store (health and safety rules), and also  a restaurant nearby had the same reason of not being able help me.

luckily i was able to hind a residential home who let me in en use their energy to power my soldering iron.

I did solder the loose contact. and went back to the car.

 

IT STARTED.

now everything back to its place (also not that easy) but we where able to drive home

cooling off time of the car 3 hours, which did not work. accessing and fixing the relay 1 hour so 4 hours after being stranded with 3 children (age 3,4 and 6) and a 35 weeks pregnant wife. we could continue our trip to home.

 

Thanks Forum, Thanks mickdon

Posted

sylray :46:

how did you manage to keep all of them happy and entertained?

Posted

mainly making sure we got enough candy and some toys from the store we where in front off.

 

And the oldest (almost 7) will learn how to solder in not to long,

I am doing a training with him for HAM radio licence, and  also include some real electronics (not needed for the 1st level, but always nice to do)

 

and further just ignore the complaining ;-)

 

(now up to the next points. non working left rear door locking(electronicly) and the right rear door window not opening/closing)

Posted
Yea, will give it A search later. But I guess it does mean cutting the cables in by one and extend With a new wire (sealing each wire With a heat crimp socket over it(sorry don't know the official English name for it (Dutch krimpkous)))

Does someone know if there is a digital user manual for the galaxy 2.3 ghia X 1998

There are a lot of things I have to figure out how they work
(for example I have a "res" switch at the left side of the steering wheel, don't know ow what it does)
Posted

These buttons are for the cruise control

 

Res = Resume previous set speed

Set = Set Speed

+ = Increase speed

-  = Decrease Speed

Thanks.

I think it is not working. so am going to search to the issue behind the left side indicator i did read about. (And i think I have to see if i can find someone local who has vagcom or something. (I would love to have a look inside)

 

so if there is someone living in north dorset. (I live in DT10) and has diagnostic software(and hardware) to read out my 2.3 1998 Ghia

  • 7 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted
Excellent description and advice.

I have had the same issue, to begin with I wasn't sure if it was R30 or R167. Stripped down to the 3rd level of the fuse housing and simply unclipped both relays, leaving them hanging down below the fuse panel once all was put back together. As a quick fix, this allows me to simply pull off either relay, give it a tap on the door sill then push it back into place. Not so much of a fix, but gets you going again within 30 seconds. I will eventually get around to buying a new relay and put everything back together.
  • 1 year later...
Posted

I've just diagnosed and replaced a faulty Relay 30 as a result of an incredibly helpful suggestion on another thread - thought I'd post any useful detail here.

 

I have  a year 2000 2.3 Ghia Galaxy Mark II. The fascia looks a bit different from the photos here, but the instructions here were sufficiently close to what was needed to help me get to Relay 30.

 

I had 2 problems (i) intermittently the engine would lose power at speed - felt as if it was missing or something like that. Just now and then. (ii) intermittently, the car wouldn't start. Turned over fine but didn't seem to fire. Or if it was firing, there was nothing to burn. Give it 10 minutes and it would start without a problem.

 

I took out relay 30 and opened it up. Sure enough there was a dry joint. I got a replacement off fleabay (I tried soldering but it wouldn't stick - maybe I needed different flux. It's such a pain getting the thing out that I didn't want a bodged repair that might soon fail again). Strangely they seem to be cheaper under the VAG number. See details elsewhere on this thread.

 

The only point I'd add to help others is the following. I've seen this described as a "power relay". It's quite confusing that in the failure condition (and I've tried this with the relay completely removed to confirm), the engine turns over - there is no obvious shortage of electrical power. Why does the little red light flash on the door? Who knows. My best guess was that the fuel pump needs this relay.

 

As the guy who started the thread said - this site is the b*ll*x!

Posted

I've just diagnosed and replaced a faulty Relay 30 as a result of an incredibly helpful suggestion on another thread - thought I'd post any useful detail here.

 

I have  a year 2000 2.3 Ghia Galaxy Mark II. The fascia looks a bit different from the photos here, but the instructions here were sufficiently close to what was needed to help me get to Relay 30.

 

I had 2 problems (i) intermittently the engine would lose power at speed - felt as if it was missing or something like that. Just now and then. (ii) intermittently, the car wouldn't start. Turned over fine but didn't seem to fire. Or if it was firing, there was nothing to burn. Give it 10 minutes and it would start without a problem.

 

I took out relay 30 and opened it up. Sure enough there was a dry joint. I got a replacement off fleabay (I tried soldering but it wouldn't stick - maybe I needed different flux. It's such a pain getting the thing out that I didn't want a bodged repair that might soon fail again). Strangely they seem to be cheaper under the VAG number. See details elsewhere on this thread.

 

The only point I'd add to help others is the following. I've seen this described as a "power relay". It's quite confusing that in the failure condition (and I've tried this with the relay completely removed to confirm), the engine turns over - there is no obvious shortage of electrical power. Why does the little red light flash on the door? Who knows. My best guess was that the fuel pump needs this relay.

 

As the guy who started the thread said - this site is the b*ll*x!

 

The red light is the indicator for the immobiliser - that isn't receiving correct power due to the relay, hence its flashing an error code at you.

 

The VAG number is cheaper as the ford part will be the VAG part with Ford's markup on top!

  • 6 months later...
Posted
I'm writing this long after the thread was started in the hope that Graham sees it. I would like to extend my deepest gratitude to you Graham for helping me solve my start problem with our Galaxy 2005. I followed your instructions and found that relay 30 was either faulty or had come loose. I pushed it in and my car started without hesitation.

You have just saved me a lot of money but above all you have given me peace of mind. And for that I will always be grateful.

Thank you.
Posted

I'm writing this long after the thread was started in the hope that Graham sees it. I would like to extend my deepest gratitude to you Graham for helping me solve my start problem with our Galaxy 2005. I followed your instructions and found that relay 30 was either faulty or had come loose. I pushed it in and my car started without hesitation.

You have just saved me a lot of money but above all you have given me peace of mind. And for that I will always be grateful.

Thank you.

 

If it does reoccour (its certainly possible it may do) then the relay can either be replaced (I've found a replacement for under £10 off GSF's website using the number printed on the top of it) or pull it out and get the solder points resoldered (they will have gone dry - broken/cracked/crazed appearance on the solder). If you aren't confident in doing it it shouldn't cost much if anything at all to get some fresh solder on the points and fix the problem for a few years by doing so.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

:8:  :8:

 

Great instructions, found relay 30 and as suggest re soldered joints on relay board and refitted to car and OMG first time starting!!!!!! every time!!!!!!

 

Many many thanks.

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