Relay 30 Replacement

[Guest grahamm]

First things first, this site is the dogs b*ll*cks. It has helped me solve my Galaxy problems on a number of occasions. As a way of supporting this site and giving back what I have taken (air con, water in footwell, wet parking sensors to name a few) I have recorded a detailed description of my latest fault fixing exercise, ye olde won't start problem due to relay 30 (well relay 27 on my MKII).

Some background, the car is a MKII 51 plate 2.3 petrol Zetec with manual transmission. The problem, lights come up on the dash but no signs of wanting to start, not even turning over. This is not really a new problem for my Gal, it actually did it within a few months of owning the vehicle but it re-started and I thought nothing of it. Alas of late the problem has happened more often till yesterday when it would not start at all and after my tinkering to get to the relay it started but then again today it stopped leaving the wife stranded.

Wisdom from this site tends towards relay 30 being at fault (or on MKIIs relay 27 as marked in the owners guide). Now as I found out last night getting to the relays is not easy. The fuse/relay assembly has three levels, level 1 being the fuses visible from the fuse panel, and level 2 and 3 being the relays. The assembly itself has to be completely removed to get at the relays and requires the removal of dash panel in front of the fuses panel.

[img]http://static.flickr.com/71/172072998_1249a9e3f4.jpg?v=0[/img]
fig 1: Dash panel concealing fuse/relay assembly.

Before you start make sure that you have a flat headed screw driver, a torque bit screw driver with bit T20 (I had two, one was from a socket set), a pair of scissors and of course a new relay 27/30 (Ford part number 7203442 but check what is appropriate for your model of Galaxy). In addition to this make sure you have enough room so that you can work with the driver door fully open and have an old blanket or something that you can place on the ground to kneel on when working in the foot well.

Before starting make sure there are [b]NO[/b] keys in the ignition. We don't want any accidents.

Using the screw driver carefully prise the panel normally concealed when the driver door is closed. Make a note of the where the lugs are and apply pressure near them (circled in red in fig 2). Otherwise you may stress the panel and break it.

[img]http://static.flickr.com/66/172073000_83a647b2c7.jpg?v=0[/img]
fig 2: Removing the side panel.

Now remove the silver trim just above headlight rotor. It prises forward and has three arms on the back so make sure that you remove each end a bit at a time and not snap an arm off.

[img]http://static.flickr.com/46/172073001_5c8619fd36.jpg?v=0[/img]
fig 3: Removing the silver trim.

Removing the trim has exposed three rectangular metal inserts where the arm slotted in (the leftmost is indicated by the red arrow in fig 3). They need careful removal by sliding the screw driver behind them and slowly prising forward. You may find that the delicate plastic surround will break or is already broken. Mine were so I suspect the initial assembly snapped them. When the trim is in it all fits snuggly so I don't think this is a major problem.

With the three inserts are three screws that will require removing with the torque bit screwdriver. Actually I don't think the middle screw needs removing but I did it anyway.

Two similar screws need removing from inside the fuse panel (circled red in fig 4). These can be tricky because the fuse panel flap makes any decent sized screwdriver awkward to use. This is where the socket set with a torque bit helped.

[img]http://static.flickr.com/63/172073002_17622ec1c5.jpg?v=0[/img]
fig 4: Fuse panel screws.

Now work the entire panel slowly forward towards you. If it will not move you may need to prise up two slot-in catches located that are at the top of the panel and are normally concealed behind the silver trim removed earlier. In addition to this there are two lugs in the leftmost bottom corner of the panel that hold the panel to the neighbouring dashboard panel. They are tricky to separate and slide horizontally away from the dash (indicated by the red arrows in fig 5).

Once the panel starts to come away disconnect the headlight rotor connector and the headlight alignment connector.

[img]http://static.flickr.com/54/172073004_a420af6851.jpg?v=0[/img]
fig 5: Bottom leftmost lugs.

Once the dash is free lay it carefully in the footwell. The engine diagnostics connector is still attached to the panel so you cannot remove it fully. To stop additional stress on the diagnostics cable remove the plastic panel with the foam insulation. Push it left or right and one end just pops off (bottom red arrow in fig 6).

[img]http://static.flickr.com/57/172073005_7b892acee9.jpg?v=0[/img]
fig 6: The exposed fuse/relay assembly.

To remove the fuse/relay assembly a single screw needs to be removed from the assembly frame (upper red arrow in fig 6).

[img]http://static.flickr.com/44/172073857_6e0a265bb2.jpg?v=0[/img]
fig 7: White clips.

Now release the white clips at the bottom of the fuse/relay assembly. There is one either side and they click forward (lower red arrow in fig 7). The assembly won't yet slide up and forward because just above the each clip in the assembly frame there is a lug (upper red arrow fig 8). The frame needs to be eased apart gently and the assembly gently slide up and forward. Care must be taken as there a lot of wires and connectors in the vicinty. A primary wiring loom travels up the back of the assembly and it must not be damaged.

[img]http://static.flickr.com/57/172073005_7b892acee9.jpg?v=0[/img]
fig 8: Right white clip and assembly lug.

You may not be able to tilt the assembly down and get access to level 2 because of the main wiring loom. There may by cable ties holding the loom tight against the level 2 assembly. You may need to snip and remove them. Take care not to snip any wires or the loom!

[img]http://static.flickr.com/66/172073854_73b57322af.jpg?v=0[/img]
fig 9: Getting access to level 3.

The level 2 assembly clips into level 3 assembly. Easing the clips apart allows level 2 to be tilted forward and out of the way (clips marked by red arrows in fig 9). Once again this may only be possible once the ties around the main loom have been removed.

[img]http://static.flickr.com/68/172073855_dd1f70bdd4.jpg?v=0[/img]
fig 10: Revealing the beast that is relay 30.

Now level 3 should be visible, identifiable by one or more large fuses and the infamous relay (indicated by the red arrow in fig 10). In reality the relay is labelled 30 even though the owners guide refers to it as R27 so always check when you purchase your relay. The relay pushes in so gently prise it out and replace it with the new relay. For peace of mind give all the other relays a push home in case one was disturbed during disassembly.

At this point you may want to see if your lovely Galaxy will start. If it doesn't then panic. Hopefully it will.

Now reverse the entire procedure. Carefully return the level 2 assembly back to it's correct position. Slot in the bottom edge first and push the clips home. Lift the entire assembly up into the correct orientation and carefully slide the base into the grooves where the white catches are. I had to push the white catches back first, slot in the assembly and then bring them forward again before clicking them into place. Make sure the lugs above the catches are also correctly located.

Return the screw attaching the assembly top to the assembly framework (fig 6). Carefully lift and push the fuse panel dashboard back over the assembly making sure that the top and the leftmost bottom lugs align and engage correctly with the other parts of the dash.

Return the three screws at the top of the panel and then the two screws inside the fuse access flap. Then replace the small panel located directly under fuse assembly. This is best done with fuse panel open, so revealing the lips on the bottom of the fuse/relay assembly frame (fig 6).

Re-insert the inserts at the top of the panel and replace the silver trim, careful again not to break the arms. Finally slot in the panel normally concealed when the drivers door is shut. If you have any parts left over then panic (I had a rubber block from somewhere, I assume it was just packing).

Of course you follow these instructions at your own risk.

[Strawdog]

HAYNES better watch out.

Excellent piece of work but I hope you wont be offended if I say "I hope I never have to follow these instructions", you know what I mean.

[buford_t_justice]

Top bloke! That's a great post.

[Another?Maybe!]

Gosh! I agree with Strawdog, I hope it never happens to me! I know it says in the Handbook that there are more than one level in the fuse box but I'm sure it doesn't tel you how. I can see why now.

PeteR

By the way, there are no reassembly instructions!!



Oh, I've just spotted the reassembly notes...sorry...was totally confused by then! Great post though, very useful.

PeteR

[NikpV]

Submitted and put in the FAQ

[Guest Cepheus]

Quality post ...... well done that man!!

I hope I never have to do it, but if I do It'll be lot easier now! (I'm sure the MK1 job will be a very similar process, dash trim excepted)

[Andrew T]

I'm getting a little confused with the relay numbers and functions.

I understand that failure of relay 30 (power boot relay) is a well known problem on Mk1s (only up to 98?).

My MK2 handbook (car registered April 2001) lists relay position 30 as not used. No other relay is listed as the power boot relay.

A previous thread suggested that relay 27 on the MK2 had superseded relay 30.

My handbook lists relay 27 as "Fuel Supply (DOHC Engines)". Whilst I can see that failure of that relay would lead to cutting out of the engine I can't see that it would prevent the engine turning over.

Another member with none starting and cutting out problems on his MK2 2.3 has been told by his dealer that they relaced the Power Boot relay, but they didn't tell him which relay it was.

One explanation is that the handbook is wrong (not for the first time) and relay 27 is the power boot relay, however the none starting / power boot relay is a problem that has been mentioned occasionally on Diesels, on whch I presume relay 27 is ommited.

Any thoughts ?

[Guest grahamm]

Just to keep everyone in the loop, since changing the relay the Gal hasn't failed again. All I need to do now is debug the parking sensors and heated wing mirrors.

Graham

[neilb]

Nice work Graham and many thanks.Nice to see another member taking time to photo and post their work.
Perhaps the admin/a mod could create a subsection in this forum for these handy "walkthroughs". They could then all me moved and pinned there.They would be easier to find all in one place than having to word search.

Just a thought!!!!

[Guest JohnGal]

Graham et al,

Many thanks for pointer to the troublesome relay 30 as it has helped me to cure my non-starter 1995 Galaxy GLX in next to no time!

However, on this model there only appears to be ONE level of fuses/relays and relay 30 is immediately visible after removing the cover.

A possible workaround to replacing relay 30, is to remove the relay outer (black) cover by gently prising it off; a small screwdriver (or two) can be used to move out the lugs which hold the cover onto the relay. The relay can then be re-inserted (minus cover) and it's operation observed whilst operating the ignition key; I believe that the relay should visibly close (and audibly click) when the ignition is operated.

In my case, the relay did not click/close and to remedy this, I gently reset the relay spring/contact by hand a few times. After doing this the relay returned to life and I believe that the "buzz" of the fuel pump could now be heard.

Hope this may help someone get out of trouble and it is only recomended as a "get home" measure (at one's own risk, etc) .

[Dave-G]

Grade A++ - top ebayer etc

well, worthy of great feedback

[Guest JohnGal]

[quote name='Dave-G' post='74814' date='Aug 22 2006, 14:59:45']
Grade A++ - top ebayer etc

well, worthy of great feedback
[/quote]


Just thought it worth mentioning that the problem with my relay 30 turned out to be dry solder joints on the PCB that the relay is mounted on. These were re-soldered some weeks ago and I have not had a single non-starting proble since!

Not sure if this is the same cause for others but it is probably worth checking to save time and money!

[Steve P]

Spooky - I had exactly the same a few weeks ago. Must be global warming

[url="http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=9666"]http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=9666[/url]

Cheers
Steve

[petemc]

I'd just like to add my thanks also. Followed these instructions back in march, spotted the bad soldered joints in the relay, resoldered them all and haven't had a problem since. Made things a lot easier than trying to follow Haynes manual information in the dark and cold. Thanks again!

[bramleydawson]

first class discription, never seen better, wish i had details like these when i rebuilt my series 2 landrover!!

[Modus_Galaxus]

My experience of Relay 30

I have a 1998 ( i think mk2 therefore) 2.3 petrol
Last november i had intermittent starting problems. Much the same as everyone else describes.... car would start fine for ages, then refuse to start... wait a few moments and it would start and drive happy as larry.
Finally it refused to start. got it towed to the local Fraud dealer who diagnosed the wonderful relay 30 as the problem.
They replaced the relay ( in exchange for

[sudonim]

The above walktrhough is awesome, I can't wait until i have a free evening to give it a try!
My 03 galaxy is having this problem - Occasionally it won't start, particularly after just stopping for a second to nip into shops et, e.g. when the systems hot.

so, sorry for the dumb newbie question:

where do i go to buy one of these number 30 relays?

There's a parkers (the parts people) near my house... will they have one? or halfords - or do i have to go to a ford dealer?

[bj2004]

i find halford a bit like pc world
find a good motor factors but always check the dealer ford seat vw

[sye]

just joined this site and i must say at first was a little gutted as couldnot find or download info on fuse layout however after reading this post and looking at the pics i have been able to see what amp fuse and where fingers crossed thanks so much oh if any body wants to help further im after complete fuse layout and anp of galaxy 2000 2.3 petrol as i have no book and for some reason int dash and heater switch lights up on the rear pas roof dont work hope its just fuses oh and i have the same dreaded problems of no cruise control no air con and for some reason the old girl stutters some times when driving along as if i lose power as its automatic a just step down and 3 4 sec later power returns so if anyone could please help wouls be very greatfull indeed thanks once again sye

[daveandsharan]

I also had the same problem on my old Mk1 Galaxy, 1998 1.9 tdi GLX.

Having located the relay, thanks to this site, I soldered the legs which had a dry joint, and it lasted for two years until I sold it on.

The dry joint was also flagged from this site, If you are confident at soldering, saves the cost of a new relay.

Hope this helps someone,
Dave

[ridway]

Hi all

Followed your schedule to a treat, very well written and gave me all the confidence to do it in half an hour; thanks for that. Relay cost 15 inclusive from main dealer.

My gal has had this starting problem for 3-4 years now, starting only if the door LED is on constantly on when the igition is on is turned on. If it flashes rapidly it wont do a thing until I wait for a period and try again. Sometimes it will go on the first attempt sometimes its can be ten minutes; it really can be a pain. It will always eventually go though.

Unfortunatley replacing relay 30 has not cured the problem so if anyone has any other ideas I'd be most thankful. I really thought this would work but i suppose there are other things that can go wrong.

Incidentaly, rightly or wrongly I took the risk of leaving the engine idleing while I gained access to relay 30. This was necessary because I was blocking access to a garage area and may have needed to move. Anyhow the point being is that the relay was fully energised right up to the point of extraction, this stopped the engine as expected. Quickly putting the new one in it started first time, what really suprised me is that it was very hot almost to the point of not being able to handle. Could this be why they fail so much. Again leaving the engine idling the new one seemed to be getting quite warm after a few minutes so who knows. Certainly felt too hot to live a full life to me.

Anyhow any thoughts please post and again, thanks for schedule, well done

Rich

[myheadhurts]

Just thought I'd say a BIG THANKYOU! VERY helpful post. After struggling with a 2.3 Galaxy doing all of the above for 2 weeks on & off , 45 mins later and a

[fallen]

Legendary, thanks

[sniper]

My '98 2.3 Ghia had a one stall (restarted no problem a few minutes later) and a few 'stutters' and then finally last Saturday it just stalled and wouldn't start again. I tried again the next day, but no dice.

I found this article, and used it to dig my way into the fascia to relay 30. (My fascia is different to the one shown, so when I get finished I'll add some pics to show the differences.

Anyway, took out the relay and then thought I'd just refit and try starting. An the car started first time. Then I took the relay out again, took the cover off to check for dry joints etc. but it looked ok. Refitted it and now it won't start again. It'll turn over, but doesn't start. Just bleeps when I stop cranking. I've also noted the driver's door led flashing rapidly.

I'll probably try get a replacement relay tomorrow, but considering how much trouble it is to get to, I'm already worried about the next long journey!

BTW - I found there was no way to get to 'level 3' without cutting two tie-wraps on the main loom, and one that seemed to have been fitted to stop level 2 being removed. (Level 2, once loosened, can be moved to the side - there isn't really a 'neat' way to keep it out of the way. Edited May 18, 2009 by sniper

[sniper]

After removing the fuse cover on the driver's side, removed the 4 screws.

[img]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/451/screwsi.jpg[/img]

Then with a screwdriver pushed in the gap in the fascia, unclip it. There are 2 of these on the rhs of the steering column, and one on the left.

[img]http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/2715/clipsa.jpg[/img]

There is also a kind of plastic 'pop rivet' on the rhs next to the door pillar. Pop it out with a screwdriver, and withdraw fully with some pliers.

[img]http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/9682/rivet.jpg[/img]

The fascia panel is then removed by unclipping the lower left side by pulling towards the door, and then lowering the panel, unclipping the wiring to the light attached to the panel.

To swing the fuse panel up/out, after pulling the white clips on the side forwards, I found it easiest to then lever the round pins (that the white clips were clipped over) up/out with a screwdriver.

Once the panel started swinging forward, I noted that a few of the tie-wraps needed clipping to allow proper access to the panel. The clips to release the 'level 2' relay panel are tucked away at the top of the panel and need to be pushed out (simultaneously) to allow the panel to unhook. Again, there was a tie-wrap holding up progress.

Finally, I clapped eyes on relay 30:

[img]http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/3221/relay.jpg[/img] Edited May 18, 2009 by sniper