Urgent - Burnt Out Fuse Box Advice Needed

[Simon_H]

Just like Steve (above) I was idly looking through posts on here and came across this thread. Went out & checked my Galaxy & saw a deformed lid on the fuse box :huh: - opened it up and the whole fuse/connector from the alternator looks very rusty & warped so I assume I have the same problem ;) .

 

The fusebox - look at the connector at the top

 

 

Taken from further away in case anyone is as dim as me and not sure where to find this fusebox - passenger side of engine bay is at the bottom of the picture, front of car to left, battery to right, engine block above. This is a 2.3V6 MkII Ghia, not sure if the diesel models have it in the same place.

 

(apologies for poor quality - it was my phone camera!)

 

As this box is hidden under the battery cover it's not something you see very often and if I hadn't been looking for signs of warping I might never have noticed.

 

We had an electrical nightmare with this Galaxy a few years back where it would be driving along happily then just completely lose all power & acceleration, then slow down & stop. Sometimes you'd be able to restart it but eventually we had to get the AA out to bring us home. It went into my local trusted garage who had to get an auto electrician on the case and he replaced various bits, including the alternator, until it worked. Cost me a LOT (this was before I knew about this forum or the story might have been very different!). I wonder if it was all linked to this fuse box or if the failure back then is what caused the fuse box to end up like this.

 

Anyway, I'll be replacing the box and the alternator cable ASAP because I don't want that to ever happen again.

[richyrich]

I had the same problem with this fuse box and cable 5 or 6 years ago.

After replacing said items and looking at everything in detail I convinced myself that there may be a problem with the battery as well - so I replaced that too.

Batteries can develop internal faults, and as I hardly had anything on at the time the melt down happened to me the current from the alternator should not have been too much.

To melt the terminal the way it did, and the fact that my alternator was still ok I thought there must be something wrong somewhere that caused the alternator to load up to 150amps!

The securing 10mm nut was not loose - it has serrations underneath that help to lock it together.

 

I always replace my battery every 5 years, and it must be a silver/calcium type if specified.

 

Anybody any thoughts along my line!

 

Richard

[mikej]

Never used the silver/calcium battery just a standard 72amp jobby from vauxhaul as it was cheap through the trade, had it on the car for over 4 years inc when the fuse box melted and after. Just replaced recently prior to the mini ice age just to be on the safe side. I have owned the galaxy for approx 5 yrs plus and never had any issues as yet with the batteries so i think you may be barking up the wrong tree on this one. In my own opinion the over heating is likely due to high resistance in the box due to poor contact but i have been wrong many times :lol:

[richyrich]

Mikej - it was just a thought.

Ford introduced a'Smart Charging System' to it's vehicles from about 99 onwards. Google it and you'll see what it means.

The Galaxy - according to my TIS - has been fitted with Ca batteries since 09/99.

It does also say that Ca batteries MUST be fitted due to the higher charge voltages that can be used.

The actual charge rate is determined by other factors - not just the 'system' voltage.

You can use Ca batteries in cars not fitted with the Smart system - but not the reverse.

 

Hassan - I hope your charge voltage has by now settled down from the 16.8 v you say you had.

A more realistic figure should be 14.8 max.

 

Check out - www.thequalityfactor.co.uk/offers/​FORD%20CARS-SCS.doc

interesting little fact sheet.

 

Rich

[hassan]

Hassan - I hope your charge voltage has by now settled down from the 16.8 v you say you had.

A more realistic figure should be 14.8 max.

 

Check out - www.thequalityfactor.co.uk/offers/​FORD%20CARS-SCS.doc

interesting little fact sheet.

 

Rich

 

Voltage flow still is over 16v, what you think? shall I change the battery?

[chrispb123456]

Are you sure about the voltage reading you are getting, over 16 volt is extremely high for a 12 volt system as already said 14.8 max when engine running.

You will be running the risk of damage to electrical components with continued use

Have you checked it with another meter to double check, if the meter is correct then the alternator regulator is the likely culprit