Urgent - Burnt Out Fuse Box Advice Needed

[El Dingo]

VW part number is moulded onto the inside of the lid... Oh, it melted. :)

The thing is, you might need to change one or more of the cables that go into that fuse box.

The new fuse box comes with the battery terminal connector cable.

 

The pic shows the damage to ours. Both the alternator cable had to be replaced and the cable running off to the (other) fusebox had to have a new piece spliced on. 'Heat treating' the cabling like this causes the cable to become highly resistive and will cause more heating up. So unless you replace any damaged cabling, you'll end up replacing the fuse box again.

 

(7M3 937 548 A)

Edited December 28, 2007 by El Dingo

[mikej]

El Dingo your a star mate thanks alot . I can order one am tomorrow .The damage to mine was bad , the top cable 150 AMP ( looks like the alternator) is all twisted with the heat and the fuse had almost gone , bloody big hole in box size of 50p piece i am just thankful for the forum advice , it looks to me like the cable retaining nut in the box may have worked loose causing the high resistance and melting . i will check all other associated wiring tomorrow prior to fitting new box .

thanks again for the prompt reply

mike....

[stevie m]

I had one of these go on my gal recently too. i changed myself for

[mumof4]

change the big black cable if you didnt do it before and change the main fuse feed box aswell.Otherwise your alt MAY go poof aswell like mine did the second time the MFFB decided to melt.

[mikej]

MFFB :rolleyes: ?

[Saif Rehman]

MFFB :rolleyes: ?

 

Main Fuse Feed Box

[roadhog]

Can anyone please advise - i have had the same problem of the Fuse box melting - this has happened to me twice over a year and a half - It seems to occur during the winter when all the electrics are working ( heating, radio wipers..etc) the fuse for the cable from the alternator to the battery keeps burning out and hence melts down the fuse box. The RAC chap has put a temp fix for the moment - he seems to think that i need to replace the multistrand copper cable from the alternator to the fusebox -not sure why i would need to do this - as i understand the fuse is melting because of high current, above it's rating - I believe the fuse rating was 100 Amps does this need to be increased -

 

Someone has suggested this could be a design fault ( I have a Ford Galaxy 1.9TDI 2001 reg)

 

Has anyone come across this problem before - I am reluctant to replace the fuse box if this is going to happen again - has anyone resolved this problem - please advise

[mumof4]

you must replace the cable from the alt to the fuse box at the same time you change the fuse box., the cable once this happens once, will be faulty and the fuse box will melt again.Be lucky that your alt hasnt gone yet as if you dont replace it, next time it happens the alt may go aswell.

 

As has been said on this thread by myself and others.replace the cable.

[Willie Krashitt]

...And while you are at it, have a good look at the thick cable that goes off into the main wiring harness. When my fuse box began to melt, I replaced the both the fuse box and the alternator wire , only to notice some slight heat damage at the auxiliary fuse box within a few weeks. The terminal to the main loom was blackened, and when you gently flexed the cable , you could hear the terminal/cable joint creaking. I had to cut the main wire back about 4 inches before I got to wire that wasn't blackened. A new piece of 80A cable spliced on, and all has been well ever since.

George.

[Rusty Nail]

Can anyone please advise - i have had the same problem of the Fuse box melting - this has happened to me twice over a year and a half - It seems to occur during the winter when all the electrics are working ( heating, radio wipers..etc) the fuse for the cable from the alternator to the battery keeps burning out and hence melts down the fuse box. The RAC chap has put a temp fix for the moment - he seems to think that i need to replace the multistrand copper cable from the alternator to the fusebox -not sure why i would need to do this - as i understand the fuse is melting because of high current, above it's rating - I believe the fuse rating was 100 Amps does this need to be increased -

 

Someone has suggested this could be a design fault ( I have a Ford Galaxy 1.9TDI 2001 reg)

 

Has anyone come across this problem before - I am reluctant to replace the fuse box if this is going to happen again - has anyone resolved this problem - please advise

 

I too have now fallen foul of the faulty fuse box. :D

 

I had trouble this weekend after a day out ferrying the wife around the shops.

We had visited at least eight shops, starting the car on each occasion. We covered quite a few miles - enough to keep the battery topped up (or so I thought), but as usual we had the heater, radio and DVD running most of the time.

Come the last shop - Argos - upon trying to start the car the starter only just tried to turn before the battery died. I hobbled back into the shop and purchased thier high quality jump leads - I nearly died laughing when I saw them, but when needs must and all that.

 

Note to self, put 800A leads back in the boot as they are of no help in garage - dough!!!!

 

Anyway, I collared a guy in a Freelander and managed to jump start the ole Gal before the leads melted. I thanked the man and made a dash for home as I was evidently running off of what was left in the battery. I had no indicators, no sence from the dials, an array of flashing warning lights (ABS, Airbags, Handbrake etc) and beeping that made you want to hit something.

I made it home - just, and put the battery on charge overnight. The next day I started the car - first time and checked the battery voltage - 12.4V, a bit low me thinks as I was expecting 13.8V plus. There didn't appear to be any much more coming from the back of the alternator, so I took it off and gave all the connections and brushes a clean. This helped things as I now had 13.4V at idle. Better but not perfect.

 

Que Forum - hey presto - similar issues, great, I'm not alone.

 

That is when I had a poke around and found the fuse box fault just as described (Fuse box is in front of the battery on 1.9 Tdi MkII)

The top of the box had signs of burning and I had to force the top open as things had melted together.

 

The alternator lead was burnt, the main 150A fuse had semi-dissintigrated and things just didn't look to great. I stripped the lead, fuse etc, and started the clear up. I re-fabricated the fuse (no shops open at 23:30) cleaned up all the terminals and crimp connecrions and re-connected. The battery was at 12.4V before, and 13.7V at idle, but the alternator was kicking ot 14.4V.

 

I felt along the alternator lead and as you got near the fuse box, the lead got hotter and bl**dy hotter. Great - NOT

 

I am now looking at getting a new Fuse Box, a new 150A Fuse and a new Alternator Lead. I shall update you all with costs and fitting times as soon as I know.

 

Have faith all- you're not alone ........ :)

[mumof4]

a new main fuse feed box only costs around 20 quid IIRC and it comes with the fuses inside of it.That is from Fords.The lead shouldnt cost that much either.

[Rusty Nail]

a new main fuse feed box only costs around 20 quid IIRC and it comes with the fuses inside of it.That is from Fords.The lead shouldnt cost that much either.

 

Thanks MO4.

 

Just in case anybody has a 2002 MKII 1.9Tdi 115, the MFFB is just in front of the battery, and is Ford Part No. 1112108. I paid

Edited February 9, 2008 by Rusty Nail

[cardno]

HELP! :unsure: My Gal has broken down again tonight, less than 2 weeks since last time. New alternator was fitted last week, but tonight exact same thing happened again. RAC diagnosed faulty alternator again! I asked DH (he was driving this time!) if they had checked the fuses as I remembered reading a post on here that they didn't need a new alternator, just a fuse box. Well would you believe it, the 100 amp fuse in the small rectangular fuse box near battery has burnt out completely and melted the fuse box casing etc. RAC had done a temporary repair by using another 100 amp fuse and adapting it slightly to fit, just to get DH home.

 

Firstly, does anyone know what could have caused this?

Secondly, is it going to cost me an arm and a leg to repair? (DH wants to do it - he says it's easy)

and Thirdly, is there anything else that could have gone wrong we need to check?

 

And RAC guy said this fuse could be affecting the a/c, and the guy came )finally!) yesterday to look at it, and it's working fine.... The Gas has not leaked out... So why did it not work the other week....? Could that be this big 100 amp fuse?

 

Just one other thing, excuse my ignorance, but what rating of alternator should my gal have - could they have put the wrong one in?

 

Any advice greatfully received.

 

;)

[ALARM MAN]

Ok can someone help me out on Here

 

Blue traced wire i beleive this is Alternator

What is Red traced wire ?

 

Regards Ian

Edited November 11, 2009 by ALARM MAN

[richaber]

Wow, can't believe how many problems this fuse box gives. Have just bought a 55 (06) 130bhp tdi to replace our R reg Gal. It's only done 45K and all good but last night Mrs phones 'weird dashboard lights and radio going on and off, now it won't start'. I popped out and bodged a repair to get her home.

 

I can't help with what the red highlighted wire is because I haven't looked into it yet, maybe that feeds the main fusebox? But now I look at the pic I took I see it is showing signs of discolouration, I will have to investigate that when I change the fusebox. I note Willie Krashitt remade the end of that cable. Am so grateful to Rusty Nail for posting the parts numbers for the fusebox and alternator cable. I agree it's false economy just to change the box.

 

Have attached a pic of the fusebox to add to the rogues gallery.

 

The older Galaxy inhibited the rear cabin heater if the heated screen was on, but in this one you can have everything on at the same time. An amp too far maybe?

 

Been away from the forum for some time but it's great to see it's still going and as helpful as ever.

Rich.

Edited November 27, 2009 by richaber

[richaber]

Please excuse the bad form of following up one's own post...

 

Finally got a round tuit and fitted the new fusebox and cable this morning... Replacing the fusebox is easy. Note that it clips into a plastic base which stays on the metal support.

Changing the cable is a lot more fiddly. Pull off the engine cover to see it. Still loads of other stuff in the way. You need the hands of a gynacologist to get to all of it. The plastic clips that hold the cable to the car at various points come with the cable, so you don't have to be too gentle removing the old ones, I chopped the stub off the back of most of them with a chisel. I failed to get all the clips back in, the one one the back of the alternator and there is one somewhere to the back of the windscreen washer bottle.

Took the best part of 2 hours.

[swifty]

Hi all I have had the melting fuse box as well. As all the dealers are closed till monday am best off not driving the gal for the rest of the weekend till I can get a new box and lead. Also can you only check the actual fuses when all the wires are disconnected? Sorry if thats a stupid question..

 

Swifty

[yaya]

First post here...

 

After several electric gremlin-ish annoying issues (parking sensors playing up, A/C, brake-pads warning lights etc.) I searched and found this forum...went and had a look at the F box...yup...melted...Going to get a new one and a lead tomorrow (hoping that the nearby Dagenham will have them). Just one question (a dumb one I guess): Do I need to disconnect the battery? I am assuming yes but will there be any issues after that with re-setting keys or whatever?

 

Only had the car for 6 months (51' 1.9 TDI Ghia) and I can't say it's been too reliable so far...

 

thanks!

[yaya]

First post here...

 

After several electric gremlin-ish annoying issues (parking sensors playing up, A/C, brake-pads warning lights etc.) I searched and found this forum...went and had a look at the F box...yup...melted...Going to get a new one and a lead tomorrow (hoping that the nearby Dagenham will have them). Just one question (a dumb one I guess): Do I need to disconnect the battery? I am assuming yes but will there be any issues after that with re-setting keys or whatever?

 

Only had the car for 6 months (51' 1.9 TDI Ghia) and I can't say it's been too reliable so far...

 

thanks!

 

Lifted the carpet in the passenger footwell and it's flooded.

 

Now, are the MFFB issue and the flooding/ PDC issues related to one another?

 

Wanting to ask if I change the MFFB+lead, change the PDC and dry everything out, will I have a gremlin free car or not?

 

Just wondering...

[gregers]

do a search for the dreaded flooded foot well been covered numerous times it could be a few things that it might be,like the rear wash pipe.

[Steve_w]

Hi stubbled across the site whilst looking for ideas on fixing my Galaxy.

 

Nice to see im not alone!!!

Our Galaxy (an 02 2.3 zetec) died whilst wife was taking kids to school all the lights came on, radio died etc.

RAC came out diagnosed faulty alternator, so today in the snow I replaced the alternator with a new one and replaced the aux drive belt whilst i was at it.

Jumped the car to charge the battery then as soon as i turned it off (after 10 minutes) it was still dead.

It was then i spotted the fusebox cover was looking a little warped out of shape when i managed to get it open both the two top connectiones had melted and the wires were touching just as in the pictures posted on this thread.

So tomorrow i gonnna have to take a trip to the ford dealer for a new fuse box and alternator cable.

I will also rebuild the other cable to cut out the heat damaage.

 

Question is do i swop out the new alternator for the old one or is it likely to be faulty also?

 

 

Im more than a little anoyied that Ford seem to still be ignoring this problem!!

[mikej]

Hi stubbled across the site whilst looking for ideas on fixing my Galaxy.

 

Nice to see im not alone!!!

Our Galaxy (an 02 2.3 zetec) died whilst wife was taking kids to school all the lights came on, radio died etc.

RAC came out diagnosed faulty alternator, so today in the snow I replaced the alternator with a new one and replaced the aux drive belt whilst i was at it.

Jumped the car to charge the battery then as soon as i turned it off (after 10 minutes) it was still dead.

It was then i spotted the fusebox cover was looking a little warped out of shape when i managed to get it open both the two top connectiones had melted and the wires were touching just as in the pictures posted on this thread.

So tomorrow i gonnna have to take a trip to the ford dealer for a new fuse box and alternator cable.

I will also rebuild the other cable to cut out the heat damaage.

 

Question is do i swop out the new alternator for the old one or is it likely to be faulty also?

 

 

Im more than a little anoyied that Ford seem to still be ignoring this problem!!

 

 

Very common on these old buses, it's more than likely your alternator was fine before you replaced it and the RAC misdiagnosed it so i wouldn't bother taking off the new.The biggest issue is that some people don't replace the cable after the box melted YOU MUST DO THIS or it will happen again and melt the new one also get your fuse box from VW as it's cheaper or it certainly was for me and it's a vdub part anyway. A local auto sparks should be able to make you a new cable cheaper, i paid a local firm that refurb starters and alternators a tenner for mine and it's been fine since. After you fit the new fuse box make doulble sure all the small nuts are tight.

best of luck mate

mike

[hassan]

I had the same problem with my 02 Galaxy 2.3 LX on 18 December when I started driving back home from costco, First the electronic frozened and after a while, all electric came back and engine went off. Called RAC guy and he jump start the car and left the battery attached until we reach back home. He diagnosed Alternator was gone. So had ordered alternators over internet which were very cheap. Today when I starting replacing the alternator, saw the Fuse Box melted, I opened it and was stunned to see it was totally burned because of the battery-alternator connector. I somehow juggled around and connected it (old school tactics) and jump started the car. It started well and left it for about 10 minutes in which battery was charged enough, Today I had a chance to see these post and reckon that RAC guy was wrong when he diagnosed the alternator failure. Alternator was fine here and this second time I am having the same problem in last 6 months, The garage which repaired it last time charged me with a whopping 370 Quad as they said it was all the relay switches which were replaced which I am sure was a lie. Should I go back to them and ask for a free repair?

 

Tomorrow I am going to Ford dealership to pick fuse box, alternator wire and will replace it, Until the last minute the car did started first time and was running well.

 

Thanks all you who gave advises here and make me think that sometime its better to put some of your own brain rather than depending on and trusting these RAC and dodgy garages.

[hassan]

Finally found out today that Alternator was fine so I changed the power cable that connects battery and alternator, and fuse box. I also purchased few extra fuses 150 Amps and an insulation tap just in case if similar problem occurs in future, I can at least reach home. No longer believe in these RAC/AA their skills are only limited to jump start and/or tow your car home or a garage of their chose which are awfully expansive and rip off. Current flowing from battery is about 16.8/9v which I suppose is ok.

[marcostig]

yep hassan got ripped off box