Drivers Door Electric Window

[Guest hudsonpaul1]

can anyone please help me, i have a 1998 ford galaxy 2.0 glsi, my drivers door window will not work at all, my double switch on my door will put the passenger window down but not up, it will not work my window at all, i have replaced the switch but the same problem arises.

 

The motor cannot be bought alone, you have to buy the full window regulator at a total cost of one hundred and fifty five pounds, the passenger switch works fine it will lower and raise the passenger window, its like no power is getting to my door window motor, is their anything else that i can try before i have to buy a new regulator or is it dead.

 

Any suggestions would be of great help, thankyou

hudson.paul1@virgin.net

[seatkid]

If you do a search you will realise the weak spot is where the wiring loom comes into the door thro the rubber boot. The quality of the wire used is such that it often breaks at the flexing point. You need to check out the wiring with a meter for continuity. Some where on the forum is info about colours and what to expect voltage wise at the motor plug end.

[Guest vr6galaxy]

As seatkid says the most common causes of problems with the electric windows and central locking is wiring faults and damp in the ECU :(

you will need to peel back the rubber boot on the loom from the door to the Apost and inspect the cables for sign's of failure, the fact that you still have some control of the passenger window from the drivers door would suggest a wiring fault in this region!

to really check out the cables by buzzing them through you may need to remove the door card? this has been covered elsewhere, so I wont repeat it :)

the cables for the switch are as follows.....

 

pin 1 grey/green switch illumination

pin 2 brown/blue

pin 3 red/yellow

pin 4 brown, neutral

pin 5 brown/blue

pin 6 brown/neutral (switch illumination)

 

what happens when you use the key to open and shut the windows?

[Guest hudsonpaul1]

thankyou all for your info, i never thought of the wiring, when i use my key in the lock then i can open or close the passenger window but not mine, thankyou again for the info i have disconected the plug and their is rust on 2 pins so i think i can cure this problem, many many thanks

[Guest mjp753]

I had exactly the same problem when I bought my 96 2.0 Ghia last year, replaced switch and checked wiring between doors but in the end took it to my local man who got their visiting electical expert to find the fault. Bill reads Electric window motor

[Guest vr6galaxy]

and irratating buzzing, from climate / fan/ under dash area?

That is usually the sensor fan in the CC panel, the fan pulls air from the cabin over a sensor to sample the temperature, with it it pulls in dust, air born crud and it get dirty and starts to buzz! if you look at the CC panel you will see a vent at one end above the auto button try cleaning the fan behind it with the hoover by sucking the crap off the fan blades but dont stick the hose over the vent fully leave a gap so the full strength of the hoover isnt used! or try using one of the small hoovers with a brush attacthment on you can use for cleaning your PC's key board with

[Jemble]

I've got the same driver door window problem on my 97. I've got broken wires inside the rubber boot. I have mended them before with Scotchlock connectors, but now one has broken right at the connector so there is nothing to crimp on to. Any suggestions about cheap sources of a new door loom, or a repair kit so I can get the pins out of the A pillar connector?

[Guest vr6galaxy]

ScotchLocks :lol: you were asking for trouble using those! they work on the theory that when you crimp them shut they cut into the cable to get a fixing! and you just shortened the life of the cable by using them in a high stress area! if there is enough cable left at the plug end solder or crimp a replacement section of wire in, secure the joint to the rest of the loom and then run the new cable into the door to join it to the other end

that way the new length of cable will take the stress of the flexing and not the joint

[Guest NigelP]

Very useful this thread. It took me straight to the problem within about 2 mins. When I pulled back the rubber boot on the door to body connector a one inch red/yellow (12V to the switch and regulator) piece of wire fell out!

 

When it warms up (-12C at the moment) I shall follow the advice to remove the speaker in order to get to the wires rather than trying to peel of the plastic membrane.

 

 

NigelP

[rushy]

Does the same apply to a drivers window that sometimes works fine, othertime not at all??

 

Ps. Great and very informative site!!

[Ivor_E_Tower]

When it warms up (-12C at the moment)....

Where are you? Not another forum member in Scandinavia?

[Guest NigelP]

Where are you? Not another forum member in Scandinavia?

 

I make up the Bavarian Chapter just North of Munich. It does get a little cold from time to time - not unusual for -20C in the morning......so it is a bit of pain that both the HFS and driver's side seat heater have stopped working.

[kester]

Any suggestions what to do when the main wires break out of connector crimp? Has anyone had success removing crimp from connector?

[chrispb123456]

Any suggestions what to do when the main wires break out of connector crimp? Has anyone had success removing crimp from connector?

To generalise cut of old connector, then either crimp on new one or solder on or both.

What connector are you trying to repair.

 

This topic/post is over 10 years old it's best to start your own new topic on your problem.

[kester]

It's the door boot one mentioned above, which is summat like 24 pin, so seems a bit excessive for 1 crimp! Was hoping someone's come across this one before and managed to get the crimp out of connector ...

[BrianH]

You'd have better luck finding an empty area of the connector and drilling a hole straight though it and then running the wire past it. Will make it a pain to deal with in future as you won't be able to unplug it. Or solder directly onto the connector provided enough of its left to do so.

 

Start a new topic if your still struggling to solve it - it will only get confusing otherwise!

[gregers]

holy thread ressurection batman. :32:

[kester]

Nothing left to solder onto, but your advice was spot on, there was a spare pin that I drilled thro, leaving long enough wire that connectors can still be removed in future ???? we'll see how long it lasts.

 

The connector can be a right pain to reconnect, be aware that the pink centre lug can be slid along, either allowing, or in my case initially preventing, the connector properly mating.

 

THANKS