Gadgetoid Posted December 12, 2005 Report Posted December 12, 2005 Don't forget that the pipes to both the booster heater and rear heatermatrix run along the bottom of the car - very exposed to cold air when moving. I lagged mine with standard house 15mm pipe lagging (bit of a gap left, but rotated lagging so the gaps faced each other rather than open air). Held on with standard cable ties. Booster now fires up much less often - used to start up half way through a trip if the car was coasting on a cold day. Quote
fireski Posted December 14, 2005 Report Posted December 14, 2005 Question Re VAG-COM lead. I have noted previous posts that suggest that cheap leads listed on E Bay should be avoided. (Currently available for Quote
Masked Marauder Posted December 14, 2005 Report Posted December 14, 2005 Don't forget that the pipes to both the booster heater and rear heatermatrix run along the bottom of the car - very exposed to cold air when moving. I lagged mine with standard house 15mm pipe lagging (bit of a gap left, but rotated lagging so the gaps faced each other rather than open air). Held on with standard cable ties. Booster now fires up much less often - used to start up half way through a trip if the car was coasting on a cold day. I thought about doing that but was worried about trapped moisture corroding the pipes. Was thinking alonge the lines of 22mm Armaflex and Armatape along the joints and on the ends. Quote
neil Posted December 14, 2005 Report Posted December 14, 2005 HiHave read this thread with interest, but would like to ask a question.I have a 97 diesel with both auxillary,(dash switch and rear controls)and booster heater (under galaxy) fitted. If I understand correctly, the booster heater heats up the coolant water, but where does the auxillary heater draw its temperature from?Thanks Quote
malcolm.dobell Posted December 14, 2005 Report Posted December 14, 2005 The rear heater draws its heat from the cooling water. That's why there's water pipes running under the car. Quote
marinabrid Posted December 14, 2005 Author Report Posted December 14, 2005 neil to save furthur confusion, the name booster heater and auxillary heater are usually known as the same thing.the heater in the car is a front and a rear, the rear you are able to switch on and off with the switch on the dash that is a master switch and control the temp with the knob above the pass seat and also controlthe fan speed at the back.if it goes faulty its usually the glow plug and you can get them on ebay at the moment half the dealer price. Quote
Guest vr6galaxy Posted December 14, 2005 Report Posted December 14, 2005 What I think Neil is asking is wether the aux heater is before or after the internal heater unit in the coolant lines from the engne? does the hot coolant pass through the heater matrix from the engine and then get reheated by the aux heater before being pumped into the engine? or I could be totally wrong? ;) Quote
fireski Posted December 14, 2005 Report Posted December 14, 2005 After changing glow plug, if you have to go to dealers to reset 5 error codes. how much do they normally charge? Quote
Jeff115 Posted December 14, 2005 Report Posted December 14, 2005 What I think Neil is asking is wether the aux heater is before or after the internal heater unit in the coolant lines from the engne? does the hot coolant pass through the heater matrix from the engine and then get reheated by the aux heater before being pumped into the engine? or I could be totally wrong? ;) Coolant circuit flow diagram on mine looks like:1. Taking coolant pump as start2. Cylinder head3. Additional heater shut-off valve4. Coolant circulation pump (run-on pump?)5. Branch to both front and rear (additional) heat exchangers6. Booster heater unit from rear (additional) heat exchanger only7. Return from front heat exchanger and feed from booster heater join to go back to coolant pump Also8. Cylinder head to top of radiator9. Bottom of radiator to coolant pump Also 10. Expansion tank fed as branch from line from cylinder head to top of radiator11. Expansion tank returns to line at 6. above So I think the answer is No/after, it's engine then heat exchangers/matrices then from rear matrix/exchanger to booster heater unit then to coolant pump and engine Hope this helps,J. Quote
neil Posted December 15, 2005 Report Posted December 15, 2005 Thanks for the replies gents, i think you have all contributed to the answer in one way or other.What i was trying to ascertain was wether the rear heater (operated from the dash switch), was an additional heat source to the front heater. ie does it have its own heater. It would now appear that all the rear heater really does is blow the same heat source as the front. As such it is not really an auxillary heater as an auxillary fan.CheersNeil Quote
Jeff115 Posted December 15, 2005 Report Posted December 15, 2005 Hi Neil, Er no, rear heater has its own heat exchanger/ matrix, heat settings and coolant supply and is therfore an additional heater. Try setting the rear heater on hot (level 3 on control, NS over pillar in roof lining) and the front on cool with a/c on. Works for me to cool down the fractious adults in front while helping to get the youg un's in the rear off to sleep <_<  Mine's non-climatronic Regards,Jeff. Quote
Guest andrew hume Posted December 19, 2005 Report Posted December 19, 2005 Hello all. Hope you don't mind me jumping onto this topic concerning my Sharan tdi (1Z engine).I changed the glow plug in the heater and shorted out the air temp switch at the front. The unit did not work. This afternoon VAG Com could not communicate with Module 18 (Aux Heater). Any ideas on what to check next? thanks in advance. Quote
Guest pnwheels Posted December 19, 2005 Report Posted December 19, 2005 Was the engine running? The aux heater needs an input from the alternator. Quote
Guest andrew hume Posted December 20, 2005 Report Posted December 20, 2005 Yes, the engine was running. Having read the workshop manual, I now know that the coolant was above 75 degrees and therefore blocked off the module. I think I need to diagnose with the engine at a much lower temperature. I have been looking into getting a VAG COM lead this week. I am tempted with the X-Two from SK Pang for Quote
Galaxy Man Posted January 4, 2006 Report Posted January 4, 2006 I will have another go at changing the glow plug soon.I run Vag-Com(shareware version) but the Aux Heater module does not show up, the only errors I get are below, is the 00522 code anything to do with it?---------------------------------------------------------------------------VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N Control Module Part Number: 028 906 021 HC Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC G00SG 1905 Software Coding: 00002 Work Shop Code: WSC 000204 Faults Found:00522 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) 29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent17978 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs P1570 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent00553 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 31-00 - Please Register/Activate00741 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 27-00 - Please Register/Activate VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N Control Module Part Number: 1J0 909 603 AB Component and/or Version: AIRBAG VW3 - V03 Software Coding: 16706 Work Shop Code: WSC 000201 Fault Found:00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 07-10 - Signal to Low - Intermittent Quote
Ivor Posted January 4, 2006 Report Posted January 4, 2006 Keep trying the VAG-COM (unplug / start stop laptop / ingition on off etc.)Â My aux heater doesn't come up in VAG-COM every time. Quote
Guest peter312 Posted January 4, 2006 Report Posted January 4, 2006 Boy, am I pleased that I found this website. :(  I understand from reading this that the sound of Thunderbird 2 landing is quite normal for a Galaxy TDi Booster Heater, as is a faint "howling" noise (like the sound of air across an empty glass bottle). However, when my booster heater kicks in, the "howling"noise is sometimes very audible inside the car and very loud outside the car. Should it be this loud? As my car is a 2005 TDi, I'd like to get it repaired in the first year if it is at fault. cheers Peter Quote
Jeff115 Posted January 4, 2006 Report Posted January 4, 2006 I will have another go at changing the glow plug soon.I run Vag-Com(shareware version) but the Aux Heater module does not show up, the only errors I get are below, is the 00522 code anything to do with it?---------------------------------------------------------------------------VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N Control Module Part Number: 028 906 021 HC  Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC G00SG 1905     Software Coding: 00002      Work Shop Code: WSC 000204 Faults Found:00522 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)    29-10 - Short to Ground - IntermittentGalaxy Man, Per VW & SEAT W/S manual, G62 refers to the coolant temperature sender for the a/c switch-off. This passes info. to the ECU or radiator fan control unit to switch on the a/c clutch at high coolant temps. This unit is located on the near-side of the radiator. The coolant temp. sensor controlling the booster heater is located within the heater unit:In the D3W (3Kw unit >05/2000) unit the temperature sensor is part ref. G18In the D5WZ (5Kw unit 06/2000>)from unit the temp. sensor is part ref. G241 Your 00522 DTC then does not seem to be related to the booster heater operation but you should probably check wiring and connections to G62 anyway. Regards,J. BTW Peter,Yes the combustion air blower in the booster heater unit does make a loud turbine like whining noise when in operation :( Quote
Galaxy Man Posted January 4, 2006 Report Posted January 4, 2006 I will have another go at changing the glow plug soon.I run Vag-Com(shareware version) but the Aux Heater module does not show up, the only errors I get are below, is the 00522 code anything to do with it?---------------------------------------------------------------------------VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N Control Module Part Number: 028 906 021 HC  Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC G00SG 1905     Software Coding: 00002      Work Shop Code: WSC 000204 Faults Found:00522 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)    29-10 - Short to Ground - IntermittentGalaxy Man, Per VW & SEAT W/S manual, G62 refers to the coolant temperature sender for the a/c switch-off. This passes info. to the ECU or radiator fan control unit to switch on the a/c clutch at high coolant temps. This unit is located on the near-side of the radiator. The coolant temp. sensor controlling the booster heater is located within the heater unit:In the D3W (3Kw unit >05/2000) unit the temperature sensor is part ref. G18In the D5WZ (5Kw unit 06/2000>)from unit the temp. sensor is part ref. G241 Your 00522 DTC then does not seem to be related to the booster heater operation but you should probably check wiring and connections to G62 anyway. Regards,J. Thanks ever so much Jeff for your reply, at least I know what that code means. Cheers Jason Quote
Masked Marauder Posted January 5, 2006 Report Posted January 5, 2006 I will have another go at changing the glow plug soon.I run Vag-Com(shareware version) but the Aux Heater module does not show up, I have a full version of VAG-COM and can not get my heater to talk to it and I have tried everything. Mine is a R1998 btw, fitted with a D3W heater. Quote
Dave-G Posted January 5, 2006 Report Posted January 5, 2006 :P yep real interesting all this... mine has started to emit clouds of light grey/white smoke - but with no fan sound. thinking about it.. I aint heard that jet this winter at all! Also had signs of fuel leaking from it - after 10 mins or so of running the smoke stops - I assume thats when it gives up starting attempts, yet it try's again next time I start the motor EDIT: I have temporarily pulled off a wiring terminal from the fuel feed pump - no more smoke - not tried to see how long it takes to warm up yet though Quote
Jeff115 Posted January 5, 2006 Report Posted January 5, 2006 Dave,I had similar symptoms (excessive smoke, booster apparently not firing, leaking fuel) as others have had - see Ivor's past on Page 4. I suspected the combustion air blower but found this to be fine on dismantling the unit. VAG-COM test could also turn the blower on by itself. The fact that you're getting smoke at all indicates that the blower is probably working but failing to get fuel to burn completely maybe during to faulty ignition.but with no fan sound.as blower is not ramping up to normal operational revs.  I fixed mine by exchanging/upgrading the glow plug and clearing the 'flame-out' DTC's using VAG-COM. If you've d/c the metering pump then the booster will not get fuel at all and you'll probably get a 01413 Metering Pump faulty DTC also. Hope this helps,J. Quote
Dave-G Posted January 7, 2006 Report Posted January 7, 2006 Right then guy's, one of my younger brother's is much more PC cleverer than I and has just bought a lappy Exactly what would I/we need to get this vag-com working on it? both for this and other usual things like oooo I dunno recalibration if my speedo goes wrong etc Quote
Guest Turbo Posted January 11, 2006 Report Posted January 11, 2006 A couple of weeks ago I drove from Carlisle at -4 down to Penrith then to Glenridding, at the end of Ullswater. From Penrith temperatures were between -6 and -9. The aux. air heater was still on when I parked up. How much fuel does the system actually use in say an hour? Anybody know? Quote
Masked Marauder Posted January 11, 2006 Report Posted January 11, 2006 Yep. But it depends on whether high output or low and how old the car is. What year was your car built? The early model has a 3kw booster and uses 0.4 of a litre an hour on high output and 0.19 of a litre an hour on low output.  The 5kwh unit uses 0.67 of a litre/hour of fuel on high output and 0.31 of a litre an hour on low output. Quote
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