Aux Heater ?

[chrispb123456]

If you cant wait you could remove the temp sensor and bridge the two terminals in the plug, if you don't know the sensor can be found clipped to the wiper linkage, after removing scuttle tray (3 bolts)

[xavier]

Attempted this today, bad light stopped play (probably just as well as I was about to do something I'd probably regret). Usual sheared bolts, biggest problem I have is I can't disconnect the multiplug to allow me to lower the heater, the thing won't budge. Copying from a previous post :

 

"The single biggest problem I ran into was getting the electrical connector disconnected from the heater before lowering the heater down from the vehicle. I'm completely unfamiliar with these connectors and I must have spent the best part of an hour trying to get the thing disconnected. It's very awkward to get at and you can't get a good purchase to pull plug and socket apart and if you don't even understand how the connector works, it makes it even more difficult. In the end, out of desperation, I more or less prised it apart with a big screwdriver and fortunately this didn't destroy it."

 

Has anyone got a pic of the plug disconnected, it's not even obvious where I should insert said big bloody screwdriver!

 

Some of the other guides suggest I should be able to lower the heater enough to get access to the plug, but I can't get it down far enough. Any tips welcome!

[chrispb123456]

You need to lower the heater with the bracket attached 4 bolts then remove the 2 nuts that separate the bracket the wire is long enough providing it hasn't been misrouted, you need to squeeze the sides of the plug to release the lugs then pull apart

[xavier]

Thanks Chrispb. Cable definately isn't long enough, I've tried to pull some slack through where it passes through the bodywork but there is no slack. The cable and connector doesn't come down as far enough to even pass the sill. I'll take some pics, want some anyway of the plug incase people have the same problem as me! Right, once more into the breach, what I'd give for a warm garage to do this in! And a ramp!

[chrispb123456]

Yours has obviously been tinkered with before.

Here is the link to the section in the FAQ'S on removal and as you can see this member left the plug connected and worked on the heater while still connected.

 

Pics start on page 6 thread 81

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/3623-aux-heater/page__st__75

[xavier]

Ok, got the connector off, have taken some pics to help others. Also once I got it down I figured out the disparity between length. My connector plug was still mounted on the cage the heater sits in, the pics I see in Mirez's excellent PDF guide the connector has been removed. Having a cuppa before I tackle the torx screws, think I'll need the impact driver.

[xavier]

Thanks for the link to the other pics. If you look at pic 7, the cable disappears up past the sill, and you can see some wires which is probably where it enters the connector. In hindsight removing the connector from the cage rather than separating the plug / socket would have been better. The connector needs removed anyway to allow the cable to be moved to let the cage to slide off easily.

[xavier]

Stripped the head off the 1st torx screw, so looks like I'll need to sort it on the bench.

[gregers]

hey you wernt expecting this job to be easy was you?

[bigdave982]

Wow 34 pages

[chrispb123456]

It's the favourite topic this time of year :(

[xavier]

> hey you wernt expecting this job to be easy was you?

 

No, but after starting the job and realising the exhaust port had corroded away from the heater, shearing the 2 bolts that held the bottom cover on, taking over an hour to get the multi plug apart, I figured my luck had to kick in sometime!

 

So, any tips on removing rounded torx screws?!

[seatkid]

Maybe this will help ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14SUSxfPHPY

[seatkid]

Also these files from previous posters in this thread may help

 

Hydronic_20D5WZ_2025_2216_20TD_2006_202003_20JE.pdf

 

AuxHeater.pdf

[xavier]

Thanks Seatkid - I had seen the servicing vid before, thought it would be a useful guide to what to expect when I'm in there - if I ever get in there! Picked up on chris's tip of using some 22mm copper pipe to join the 2 heater pipes together, I presume I need to clamp the diesel line shut or cap the end using something. Then I can get the heater off the car, strip down properly and replace gaskets rather than just doing the glow plug. Having said that, with the exhaust ports falling off this one I might resort to a second hand unit from another car.

[chrispb123456]

Yep a small bolt in the end of the fuel pipe will suffice, as you have the problem with sheared bolts and the added problem of the exhaust connection broken/eroded away then another unit would be the quicker/easier option.

Just a word of caution!

The D5WZ is fitted to a few different vehicles EG Mercedes, Landrover VAG and others make sure your replacement has 25-2163 as the model number.

The problem with using a different model number is when you need to run Vagcom on the heater, it will only connect with the above number.

Of course you could swop over the control unit to get around this.

Edited December 4, 2012 by chrispb123456

[ypt87]

Hello friends,

 

I dont have a galaxy, but i have a sister... Sharan 1.9 TDi 2004.

 

I had this problem on my heater... grey smoke from the heater...

 

and i read from vag com this errors:

 

Address 18 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 7M3 815 071 A

Component: HEIZG. B/D5W 0001

5 Faults Found:

01492 - Function Lock-Out

35-00 - -

01409 - Repeated Flame-Out

35-00 - -

01414 - Combustion-Air Blower (V6)

36-00 - Open Circuit

01409 - Repeated Flame-Out

35-00 - -

01414 - Combustion-Air Blower (V6)

36-00 - Open Circuit

 

So i ordered a new BERU plug GH001 - 0100 226 340, changed the plug without any problem and without taking out any pipe from the heather, i had removed only the side panel and changed the plug.

 

After put it back to the car, i cleared the error memory with vag com... i made 2 tests with vag com output tests, on the internal blower and on the dosing pump, and seems to be ok... i heared some clicking noise with vag com, and whitout any error on final.

 

I dont know how to test the heather, because it was not too cold day on the day i changed the glow... so i waited for today, and today on morning was cold, the heather started to work and guess what... lots of gray smoke again :)

 

What can i do next?

I dont know what can be...

 

I changed the glow plug and today again smoke...

 

Thanks for any help!

[Taygarth]

Ok lets see if we can make 36 pages!!!!

 

Any one had this before -

 

The heater stopped working and on VAG comm had "pump earth fault" - I put a temp supply from the battery to the pump and pulsed the supply after reseting the error codes and it fired up all the time I was pulsing it - I thought the ECU was fried and gave up, A hat, scarf and gloves are pretty cheap compared to a replacement heater!

 

Then a few weeks later (without me resetting anything) it fired up - I thought, great it has healed itself, BUT it runs until the temp gauge is around 2/3 of normal and turns off.

 

It fires when the engine is cold again and does the same - has been doing this for a couple of weeks.

 

Any ideas as to why it cuts out - no more fault codes have appeared - is there a thermal protection? or could it be that as it heats up the ECU in the heater it trips out?

 

55 plate 130bhp

[chrispb123456]

The D5Z-F fitted to the later MK2's is prone to controller failure and can give misleading Vagcom readings, not known one to come back to life though, there are two temp sensors one being a overheat sensor.

[BrummyGit]

I was about to ask a similar question - my newly fixed booster heater wasn't running after a journey yesterday when I know it started up fine from cold. I have bridged the temp sensor so I know it wasn't latent heat cutting it out.

 

Is there a set of conditions where it stops running - it seems to make sense if you are on a long journey which works the engine enough to no longer require the booster to maintain temperature, or is it just a sign that my run-on pump also needs some tlc?

 

I'll download the fault codes later when my wife brings the car back.

[SilverBeast]

I was about to ask a similar question - my newly fixed booster heater wasn't running after a journey yesterday when I know it started up fine from cold. I have bridged the temp sensor so I know it wasn't latent heat cutting it out.

 

Is there a set of conditions where it stops running - it seems to make sense if you are on a long journey which works the engine enough to no longer require the booster to maintain temperature, or is it just a sign that my run-on pump also needs some tlc?

 

I'll download the fault codes later when my wife brings the car back.

 

I believe it shuts down once engine temperature reaches a certain temperature. About 75C if I recall.

[BrummyGit]

Thanks, but unfortunately for me it looks like I need a new metering pump as mine worked fine with a full tank after bleeding, but with just under half a tank I'm now getting:

 

 

Monday, 10 December 2012, 23:11:51.

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2

Control Module Part Number: 7M3 815 071 C

Component and/or Version: HEIZG. B/D5W 0001

Software Coding:

Work Shop Code:

VCID: 301393C3E33B

5 Faults Found:

01409 - Repeated Flame-Out

35-00 - -

01409 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

35-00 - Please Register/Activate

 

65535 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

00-00 - Please Register/Activate

01409 - Repeated Flame-Out

35-00 - -

65535 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

00-00 - Please Register/Activate

[niallsan]

If anyone wants to post the D5Z-F controller to me- I will have a look at it - no guarantees though!!!

[niallsan]

Just adding these photos of Eber D5Z-F controller/ecu internals etc...

 

Edited December 27, 2012 by niallsan

[airbox]

mine was playing up the other day, white smoke outside and a smell inside. That is how I discovered these heaters. Sometimes I hear the turbine like noise, sometimes I don't. I am not too bothered about fixing it though, first car I have ever had with a heater like that and if it only works at temps less than 10*c then I can live without it. Car still seems to heat up alright and hot air is blown out the back blower so I shall leave it alone, at least until the drier warmer weather kicks in and by then I won't need it so it can stay as it is!!