Wiring Loom Lock Key Tool - Galaxy 2004 1.9 Tdi Zetec

[job]

Is there a special tool available to release the lock ring on the door pillar end of the wiring loom gaiter, I believe i have a broken wire in the drivers door but attempting to release the lock ring on the gaiter in the door pillar using a screwdriver and hammer simply stripped one of the raised sections, it is obviously VERY tight (or else it unlocks clockwise!). Currently the window is part open and I need to raise it as well as fixing the wire that stops locking etc.

[chrispb123456]

Have you followed these instructions.

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/8401-checking-wires-from-door-to-pillar/?do=findComment&comment=64104

[viperclive]

You can make a tool, bend a sturdy piece of wire into the shape of a long C, the two ends bend out two form two pins which you engage into plug in gator/door Pilar, now turn anticlockwise, easy.

[jobyrne]

Thanks for the advice, and please excuse the delay in replying, it has been a busy week or so.   As I've not managed to get the door pillar connection off, I've not managed to do any repairs, but I did remove the door end of the gaiter, and can confirm one definite wire broken and one other not far off, as I can see the core wire through the insulation, there may be others, but as I can't get at them cleanly enough I can't confirm.  I am curious however, I'm presuming the breaks are caused by the flexing of the wires as the door opens and closes, as I can't see any other reason for it, they don't seem too tightly stretched, there appears to be no corners or edges that the wires can catch on, so it must surely be the fatigue effect of continually bending metal, the fact that the 2 wires are the thickest ones would appear to confirm that.  Which leads me then to wonder, if I insert extra sections and solder, how long will a repair last?  I'm wondering if fitting spade or the cylinder ends to the wires and having a 'push' connection rather than soldering in a section is more or less likely to fail due to the continual flexing, does anyone have any experience of the different approaches? Both would appear to introduce inflexible lengths whose ends are more likely to suffer stress and fatigue, soldering two, is I add in a section, the connectors one, but possible a bulkier/longer inflexible section.

 

TIA - now off to see if I can find a C spanner, as I'm not sure I'd get a DIY tool working in the same time span.

[jobyrne]

C spanner was the answer, thanks - just got to fix the wires now

[viperclive]

I did a visit to scrap yard and ripped out good wire from inside pillars, this gave me the right coloured wire to replace damaged.

[jobyrne]

Well after weeks of driving around with a disconnected door loom and a part open window, I have at last got around to continuing the repair, and got my window up, I crimped the wires in the end as it is such a cramped space that I decided I'd only end up at A&E if I tried soldering, or electrocuted if it rained.  Now the fun has started, I just cannot get the connection back together.  I got the window up by removing the fuse box trim etc, pulling the pillar connection out, and connecting to the door connector around the pillar - I thought it best to check the repair worked before putting it all back together, so up went the window.

 

Then I got back to trying to connect them properly through the door pillar. What a nightmare, I've got the door pillar connector held in the pillar with the simple O ring, but I can't see how I can actually connect the male connector that holds the wires from the door. It has male pins that fit the pillar pattern, but the big lock ring (I think it is called that, the one with the raised blocks) when pushed onto the door connector is fixed by 3 raised sections (well it is when I put it on), so if I rotate that, the male connector & pins rotate, so how can it fit the female socket in the pillar as it seems to me to be a push fit that (mind you I've been trying for ages today, but no luck) I even tried removing the ring from the door connector, fixing it to the pillar connector (turning it so it was tight) then trying to push in the door connector.  So far, no luck, I just cannot seem to get the things to line up - the marker lines I've put on the connector I can line up, but then no push fit, and if I try turning anything all it seem to do is disconnect the simple O ring and the damn pillar connector disappears back through the hole. 

 

Has anyone any advice on what I'm doing wrong?

 

TIA

[andyt83]

Hi there. I had the same problem and realised the locking ring was slightly damaged. It seemed to hold the female section in the door pillar tight enough, but in reality there was a little bit of movement that meant it kept falling to back in through the pillar when I tried to fit the male section back in.

 

I ordered a replacement locking ring from Ford's, cost around £5.00, and fitted it around the female section in the door pillar. Was dreading fitting the male section, as was having all sorts of problems with it before, but went in first time like a dream!

 

Hope you get it sorted, or have already.

[jobyrne]

Oh dear, my apologies, it is a year since I fixed this, I eventually managed it by using silicon lubricant and holding the back of the wiring loom through the door panel.   Windows work fine and have done for over a year - now I'm trying to find out why my dashboard looks like my Christmas tree (December 17 2014) !

Edited December 17, 2014 by jobyrne

[daddyfixit]

tailgate wires have probably snapped..........brings on fog warning lamp ?  and makes dash light up as you press brake pedal ???