Dead On Starting - Immobiliser Issue?

[otronics]

Hi.

 

I have a Ford Galaxy Ghia 2005 P reg.

 

This seems to be happening often now.

 

I unlock my car, put the key in the ignition, unlock the steering, turn to key to start and the whole car cuts out dead - no electricity to anything apart from the LED on the drivers side which is constantly but dimly lit.

 

The engine does not turn at all.

 

Bizarrely, opening the bonnet fully and then closing restores power and I can then drive as normal.

 

Any ideas?

 

It is very annoying as I have to make sure the clock is set at the correct time and then keycode the radio as of course that is reset.

 

Other details:

 

* Car battery is new.

 

* There is no warning/error message displayed on the main screen when the car 'trips/cuts out'.

 

* I am using my remote key where you can unlock with the buttons. The battery in this seems OK and the chip is inside. I have yet to try my totally 'traditional' key.

 

Thanks.

 

Oliver.

[chrispb123456]

Assuming it's a 2005 MK2 (P reg and 2005 don't go together)

 

Open the battery fuse box see if it's gone into melt down.

[otronics]

Hello.

 

Yes - it is an MK2.

 

I've just had a look inside the battery fuse box and it looks as good as new..

[BigDog]

Hi, I think from the description that you have an intermittent fault (high resistance) in the high current starter circuit which is causing the whole electrical system voltage to collapse when the starter solenoid is energised by turning the key to the start position. I don't think it has anything to do with the immobiliser otherwise your clock would not reset. The fault could be either in the + or - side. It is rather suspicious that the battery is new. Are you sure both battery terminals are tight and clean where they connect onto the battery posts? And are the wires that are bolted to the terminals also well connected and undamaged? If you have a multimeter then you can trace where the fault is using an assistant to operate the key. Put the multimeter in voltage measurement mode and put the red meter lead contact on the + battery post. Put the black meter lead contact on the + feed actually at the starter motor. You should measure 0V. Operate the starter and it should not read more than 1V or so. If it reads more than 1V or so then you have found where the fault is. You can do the same on the - side between the starter body and the battery - post. The battery voltage will be appearing across the high resistance, you can narrow down it by moving the measurement points, being sure to only measure across points that should be low resistance (normally well connected). It is also possible to use a test bulb instead of a multimeter. it is possible the place where the high resistance has occurred has got really hot and melted soemthing. Good luck. Let me know if you need a clearer explanation of this method.

Matt

Edited January 1, 2013 by BigDog

[dlt1617]

You mention the battery is new have you checked the battery terminals to make sure they are tight? I've seen several cars over the years with strange electrical faults which have had new batteries and the terminals are loose (people don't check as that's the bit they know is new!)

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

[Ford1973]

Have you tried using a different key, in case there is a prob with the chip inside the one your using, I had similar problem when I forgot to re-insert the chip when the key battery was replaced, the car would start then cut out via the immobilizer.

[otronics]

Thanks for the replies all.

 

I have checked the battery terminals and they are OK.

 

I will try a different key tonight.

 

If it does cut out again, I will note how long the red LED stays on for as I have noticed it lights after after cutting out for x amount of seconds.

 

I'll try looking around with my multimeter too.

 

More later.....

[otronics]

PS/ anyone know why opening and the closing the bonnet 'fixes' the problem?

[SilverBeast]

If the dash and all lights go out I would think immobiliser/key is unlikely as it should crank and then run for a second or so before cutting out (I'm assuming it's TDI).

 

Is it opening the bonnet that fixes it or slamming it shut? If the latter it could be doing something with the ground straps, possibly the one from the battery to the chassis. (I'll switch to my laptop in a minute and see if I can find a photo, but if I recall you can,t really see it very well until you remove the battery)

 

The only electrical connection that should change opening the bonnet should be the switch for the alarm (I believe it is operated by the hinge on the passenger side).

[SilverBeast]

This is the best one I could find.

 

 

Headlight is removed and this is taken through the aperture, white plastic is washer bottle filler neck. I think the two brown wires are bolted to the body behind the wiring harness sleeving. If I recall the battery negative wire is grounded under the dome nut in the centre of the shot, though it's not particularly clear (you can see the braiding of the conductor).

[otronics]

Hi.

 

OK - some updates.

 

I have tried a different key and the same thing happens.

 

What I have noticed is that the car cuts out only when it has not been used for several days. Turning it off and starting it within a few minutes or hours is fine.

 

Today, some really weird stuff was happening.

 

The red LED on the drivers door was steady and flashing.

 

When the car had 'tripped', the odometer screen came back on after removing the key, but turning headlights on tripped the lot again.

 

Then, when turning the key, the 'top windscreen washer fluid' warning light was flashing but noting else was on.

 

Also had the spark plug warning light (separately) flashing steady and quickly.

 

This sounds like a tricky one.

 

Oh, and I tested the bonnet 'fix' - it is when I close it that everything is restored as it should.

[otronics]

Hi.

 

OK, I have had a good look around today.

 

The battery terminals were OK, but I have cleaned them up.

 

The actual connections to the battery were dirty and needed a good clean - especially the earthing connections.

 

Also, on closer inspection, the connections were not tight - they are now.

 

We shall see if this has fixed the issue.

[cyborg]

check your wires in all tailgates and doors sounds like there sorting .

[otronics]

Hello all.

 

As always - thanks.

 

I am going with this as fixed as it has not happened again since I have had a look.

 

So for anyone reading this in the future, it did appear to be a combination of loose battery connections and dirty grounding contacts NOT an immobiliser issue.