chromedome Posted December 10, 2012 Report Posted December 10, 2012 Can someone verify that I am correct. My electric secondary water pump has stopped, does this affect the booster heater not starting? I am sure that I have read this some where on the forum but I can't find it now. Thanks in advance for any information. Quote
chrispb123456 Posted December 11, 2012 Report Posted December 11, 2012 It wont cause it not to start but will cause it to cycle up and down usually registering a overheat code due to lack of circulation. Quote
chromedome Posted December 14, 2012 Author Report Posted December 14, 2012 Thanks for the reply chrispb. The aux heater does start but shuts down after a short while because of overheating. I have checked for any fault codes but fortunately it is clear. I am fitting a new secondary water pump this weekend if I can get to it. B) Quote
chrispb123456 Posted December 14, 2012 Report Posted December 14, 2012 Removing the bulkhead extension and fuel filter with the bracket will give better access, replacing the spring type hose clips to the jubilee type will help refitting. Quote
Floydey Posted October 26, 2013 Report Posted October 26, 2013 Anyone know of a good/cheap place to get a pump. Best I can find so far is GSF at Quote
xavier Posted October 26, 2013 Report Posted October 26, 2013 ebay second hand. There's one there for Quote
Floydey Posted October 26, 2013 Report Posted October 26, 2013 Thanks. Spent ages today trying to get the pump back together after replacing the bushes. I have now given up. Quote
daddyfixit Posted October 26, 2013 Report Posted October 26, 2013 as far as I knew, the pump not working causes the booster heater to overheat---then it shuts itself down ?? I would read the guide to changing brushes on here, I think its taken off a german sharan owners club ??? I done mine using a pair of alternator brushes, sanded down on a piece of emery paper on the kitchen table !! Quote
Floydey Posted October 26, 2013 Report Posted October 26, 2013 I have replaced the brushes just can't get the motor back together again :-( Quote
SilverBeast Posted October 26, 2013 Report Posted October 26, 2013 Have a look here. The pictures are from when I did mine. I used strong cotton to hold them in place, but fishing line would probably be better (stronger).If you read the guide on this site (if I recall correctly) you can drill a couple of holes in the plastic end pieced and use a pin or nail to hold the brushes back against the springs until you get the cap back on. Quote
Barlidge Posted October 27, 2013 Report Posted October 27, 2013 I tried the cotton thing but couldn't get it to work for me, in the end I propped the brushes apart then put a single drop of water on each brush, popped it in the freezer for half hour then remove the prop and quickly put back together. Quote
xavier Posted October 27, 2013 Report Posted October 27, 2013 > Thanks. Spent ages today trying to get the pump back together after replacing the bushes. I have now given up. I drilled 2 holes in mine so I could pop cocktail sticks through to hold the springs from the end of the brushes. I'll see if I can find a pic. Quote
xavier Posted October 27, 2013 Report Posted October 27, 2013 Can't seem to upload. Will try these links : Quote
Floydey Posted October 27, 2013 Report Posted October 27, 2013 Thanks for the photos Xavier. I will have a go later on in the week. :) Quote
xavier Posted October 27, 2013 Report Posted October 27, 2013 There are a couple of things to watch for. The brushes need to be far enough back to allow the motor commutator(?) to fit in the middle. Also, the ends of the brushes and wires need to be clear of the edge. When reinstalling, there's also some resistance due to the rubber seal. I found holding the unit vertically and lowering the water end into position was easiest, but needed a few goes to get it right. I tried a few times with thread but it just wasn't working. Found it a lot easier with the cocktail sticks. Make sure the brushes are short enough so everything will go back together with no fouling. some people also have filled up the holes with sealant, needless to say I didn't (forgot until I'd put it back on the car!) but no problems so far. Quote
Floydey Posted October 29, 2013 Report Posted October 29, 2013 Many thanks again for the tip with the cocktail sticks. I managed it today. Had to shave a tad off the length of the brushes though. On the downside I ended having to replace the brake vacuum pipe as I managed to split it when wrestling with the pump. What a pig to fit! Quote
chrispb123456 Posted October 29, 2013 Report Posted October 29, 2013 It's best to change them spring hose clips for the jubilee type when refitting. Quote
xavier Posted October 29, 2013 Report Posted October 29, 2013 I invested in the draper tool to remove the hose clips, made the job so much easier. Biggest problem I had was disconnecting the electrical I decided to keep the CT clips (constant tension?) after I found the jubilee clips I put on when I removed the aux heater had started to weep. Put the CT clips back on and no more leaks. Mind you I wouldn't be surprised if it was the quality of the clips (or lack thereof) that was the problem. Quote
xavier Posted October 31, 2013 Report Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) came across this on ebay recently, not sure if it would be suitable for the galaxy? Certainly doesn't look a million miles away : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSCH-universal-auxiliary-additional-electric-water-pump-for-car-vehicle-heating-/181245107708?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a330cddfc BOSCH number 0 392 020 034 Edited October 31, 2013 by xavier Quote
chrispb123456 Posted October 31, 2013 Report Posted October 31, 2013 Usually it's only the multiplug thats different I have a non Galaxy part on mine, just soldered the wires straight to the socket. Quote
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