Need Advice From Diagnostic Report

[chrispb123456]

Hi Omar

 

Nik may be on to something I seem to remember an issue with the early Mk 2's and of course you have just got the car so you don't know how long it's been like it.

 

What I have noticed with mine if it's parked facing downhill and only has about ¼ of a tank next time I come out to the car the fuel light will beep and the gauge will show empty, then once out on the road it gradually comes back to the ¼ and the light goes out, it never used to do that but have got used to it now but would think tank unit is worn causing a break in the circuit when the float arm is hanging down and forward.

To confirm this would need to remove unit from tank to operate by hand.

[omar]

What I have noticed with mine if it's parked facing downhill and only has about ¼ of a tank next time I come out to the car the fuel light will beep and the gauge will show empty, then once out on the road it gradually comes back to the ¼ and the light goes out, it never used to do that but have got used to it now but would think tank unit is worn causing a break in the circuit when the float arm is hanging down and forward.

aaahh... exactly the symptoms i have!

hmmm... maybe i won't bother trying to fix in that case

 

To confirm this would need to remove unit from tank to operate by hand.

not that i want to try and fix if i don't absolutely have to... but what does this mean? not sure. if it's not too much effort, then i'd be willing to give it a go

 

important: i've been driving the car around. is this ok? will i do damage to the car if it's not fixed and i drive round?

it's a struggle, but i've kinda got used to it. i've had a few pensioners in skoda's over take me as well which has been demoralising.

let me know. thanks

[chrispb123456]

Worst case is running out of fuel, it's one of those jobs I keep putting off, probably if the gauge wasn't working at all I would do it, or if I was constantly running out of fuel.

You need to remove the rear arch trims and scuff trims to get the carpet up to access the plate in the floor so it's not a five minute job.

[xavier]

I had a car years ago with a dodgy fuel guage, just filled it to the brim every 300 miles or so. Interestingly after a couple of years I actually fixed the problem, turned out to be a corroded connection to the sender unit.

[omar]

guys, thanks for the last 2 replies

well... the thing is, i don't plan on keeping the car for more than a few months

say 6 months - it's ok for now

so don't want to fix unless i absolutely need to

 

one thing i'll say though: the size of the car is getting on my nerves! my previous car was a bmw 3 series. damn do i miss it!!! i used to love it. sold it to webuyanycar (long story - but a funny one!). i got the galaxy virtually for free so can't grumble

[gregers]

beamer eh,totally different animal a gal is.

 

i left the mpvs for 5 mths and went and got a car,BIG mistake.lost money but am now back in them.

[omar]

i saw a nissan juke on car lease - £130 per month for 2 years (+VAT)

awesome i thought. went to have a look with the wife. you could barely fit 3 skinny size 0 models at the back!

(it does look just sooo awesome though - lovely looking car)

salesman then showed me the qashkai - the leg room at the back is *less* than what i had in my 3 series bmw

so we went up to the next one, i forgot what it was called - something terrain

legroom barley acceptable - this car is longer than the ford galaxy i have

 

i'm thinking now, maybe the ford galaxy is pretty ok :angry2:

the leg room we have seems massive compared to what else i've seen in other cars

[omar]

UPDATE: car is fixed and working fine now

 

We had a mechanic strip the car and get to the injectors

My friend tested all 4 looms with an electric meter and they seemed to be OK

Everything else seemed fine, the only thing left to do was the Cam Sensor - this was reported as being faulty in the diagnostic report that I gave in the first post in this thread

We replaced this and now the car is running fine

 

It's been a big headache lifted off my shoulders

 

Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated

[chrispb123456]

Well done :46:

[gregers]

Everything else seemed fine, the only thing left to do was the Cam Sensor - this was reported as being faulty in the diagnostic report that I gave in the first post in this thread

We replaced this and now the car is running fine

 

 

well done grasshopper.

 

1st post eh me thinks you couldve saved your self all of the heart ache :5:

still at least you now know how to put the engine back together now. :46:

[omar]

**** and double **** :46: :5:

the problem is back

it came back last night. i filled up with fuel and magic, it went away

this morning it's back

 

i'm going to use the obd2 tool to reset

but i'm assuming this won't fix??

 

erm... i didn't do myself

i paid someone to do

it's cost £300 so far :(

 

any ideas?

[omar]

OK... I've reset using the OBD2 tool, same error is reporting:

 

 

 

18075 - PD Unit Injector; Cylinder 2 (N241): Electrical Malfunction

P1667 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

what next?

 

my friend suggested that we use the fuel injector cleaner - i'm not to familiar with this, but he said that you put in and run the engine at high speed to wash out the insides

 

will this solve?

(just asking for opinions)

 

thanks

[chrispb123456]

Ah back to the injector wiring then!!

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18075/P1667

[omar]

Ah back to the injector wiring then!!

 

http://wiki.ross-tec...php/18075/P1667

i had a look at the link. the problem is that the solutions suggested are too many

 

>> Check wiring and Check / Clean all connections

that's been done thoroughly

 

>> Replace the cable-tree to/from all the Valves for Pump Jet

all cables were tested and seemed to be working

my friend got an electric testing unit and that indicated the wirings were ok

 

it does say below:

 

For each Valve the ECU checks the Begin of Injection Period (BIP) via a voltage. That voltage is very small (less than 0.0001A). Each extra resistance in the cable is fatal. So, in case of any doubt, just replace all cables.

could it be that testing using the electric meter could give a positive result, but that the wires could still be faulty??

i would have assumed that either there's a break in the wire or not?

 

it also says:

 

>> Replace Valve for Pump Jet (replace them all !)

the problem with replacing all cables and/or valve/pump is that it's really really expensive!

the fault is most likely just one single connection :46:

replacing all of those parts could cost someone £1000 just for the parts (if they went to the wrong place to buy)

 

EDIT: i've just driven the car and all is fine again. what do u think this indicates?

 

thanks

[chrispb123456]

Type in injector wiring into the search box and have a read of the relevant posts there Edited October 25, 2012 by chrispb123456

[omar]

Type in injector wiring into the search box and have a read of the relevant posts there

just done that, but all i get is results for this thread!

can u give me a link or 2 to follow?

thanks

[seatkid]

Intermittent rough running on the PD due to a faulty wiring loom is very common and a known problem to dealers (probably has a TSB) Testing the loom with a meter does not usually find any fault as its a result of faulty crimps that it only shows up when running. It quickest and easiest to replace the loom.

 

See here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/11659-anyone-know-of-electrical-issues/page__view__findpost__p__98219

 

and See http://www.fordgalax...hl__wiring loom

Edited October 25, 2012 by seatkid

[omar]

thanks for that link

i actually read that thread before (didn't take notice of where the guy said he tested cable after and it was OK)

 

still not sure though - makes no sense to me

if the wire tests ok outside of being plugged in - and then it doesn't work when fitted back doesn't make too much sense

if it's getting squashed or squeezed and that's what's causing a breakage,then surely that could be fixed??

 

i think it would be a good idea to test thoroughly more with the wire out - maybe test the wire while bent or something

[omar]

@seatkid, you updated your reply and gave a second link

the second link has some text saying "There is a resistance test that you can carry out to check your wiring loom and confirm the diagnosis. I can post this when & if your willing to do this."

i've tried reading through the post but seem lost - too much information overload

if u know the resistance test and how to do, can u give me a link to instructions?

thanks

[chrispb123456]

Type in injector wiring into the search box and have a read of the relevant posts there

just done that, but all i get is results for this thread!

can u give me a link or 2 to follow?

thanks

When you type in the search box before you click on the the green search button click on the grey "This Topic" that will open a drop down menu select "Forums" then click the search button

[omar]

guys, i still have the problem :23:

 

first time round: cam sensor was changed. all wirings and everything else were fully checked and tested ok, as i said above

 

today: europarts agreed to take back the first cam sensor and supplied a new one. new one fitted. the old one showed signs of the timing belt wheel rubbing - so this was slightly adjusted. turned on engine: no change. :(

 

put old cable back in. drove car. no change. drove for 2 min and came to stop.

started car again and the problem was gone!!

took 2 small trips to local shops 30 min apart. on second trip on the way back, problem back. :(

 

unplugging and replugging the cable must have had some sort of effect??

i'd also add that i used the obd cable and roostech software to try and clear the codes after fitting of the new wire

 

not sure what to do next??

 

my friend has suggested that clearing the fault with a proper vag diagnostic unit might help

we're going to try this tomorrow - apart from that, we're at a loss

 

any suggestions would be great

thanks