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Posted

I've just inherited a Ford Galaxy, 2001 model

It was given free to me - I've got a diagnostic report for which I was hoping to get views on - see below

 

I need to know if I'm OK driving the car for a short while without doing anything - say a few months

 

Just about everything has been serviced/replaced that could be a problem

 

There does seem to be a small problem as told by the previous owner. They said the symptoms were similar to one they had before where they had to replace 2 of the engine pistons

 

Yesterday a garage had a look and ran a diagnostic. The mechanic said that one of the fuel injectors needed replacing and that would solve the problems highlited in the diagnostic report

 

I'd really like some views/opinions/factual advice

 

See below for the actuall diagnostic report:

 

http://i.imgur.com/RQJbu.jpg

 

Thanks

 

 

Omar

Posted

Hi Omar

 

first of all would advise you to get your own diagnostic lead from ebay see link and do your own diagnostic check, some of those faults may be old, what you need to do is clear the fault codes go for a drive and see what codes come back.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-Compatible-VCDS-LITE-or-409-/330753371108?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d026febe4#ht_4445wt_1163

 

You haven't explained the problems your having but looking down the list.

 

1. 17965 is positive deviation turbo overboost this can be sticking turbo vanes and can be intermittent

 

2. 19463 Faulty wiring or faulty cam sensor

 

3. 17978 PATS chip may have been lost from key fob when changing battery.

 

4.18075 & 16686 linked to faulty injector wiring, faulty injector or even badly worn camshaft lobes

Posted

chris, thanks for the reply - that's really helpful

 

are you 100% sure that cable will work?

i sell obd2 bluetooth cables on eBay and they only work on cars that are 2001 or after if petrol and 2004 if diesel

i'll buy if you can confirm. thanks

 

>>You haven't explained the problems your having but looking down the list.

well, the previous owner said that the car suffered loss of power when driving

this only happened once 2 days ago and hasn't happened again since

i've only had the car from last night

 

>>3. 17978 PATS chip may have been lost from key fob when changing battery.

aaah... well the key buttons don't work. i have to manually close and open

i was actually just about to post another question asking where i can get my key replaced (other than going to ford and paying an arm and a leg)

let me know if u can help answer

thanks

 

other errors, i'll if they still come up after i buy the cable and see if i can clear and have them not show up again

Posted

chris, thanks, that's reassuring

i assume i will have to buy the software from ross tech to get full functionality?

what will the lite version do for me? i'm assuming that only the full version will be worthy of any use?

let me know

thanks

Posted
Unless you intend or need to recode modules or turn on or off specific functions, stick with the free version, you can do irreversible damage by changing settings unless you fully understand what you are doing.
Posted

if your anywhere near me,you could try my lead and if it works buy it :( .

as it wont work on my smax.

Posted

chris, thanks, i'll buy now and give it a go

i'll post back here with results

 

gregers, do u know for a fact that your car is the problem?

i sell bluetooth obd2 units on ebay, we've got a really good rate of good units - 98% work

the ones we sell are not like all the other sellers on ebay (i.e. same black model)

the ones i sell are direct from the manufacturer

but... but... we do get 2% that are faulty - some just won't start and others will intermittently appear to work

all faulty ones are replaced + return postage paid for

i'd suggest you go back to the place you purchased if in any doubt

 

(let me know if u want to give the bluetooth unit a go. i'll give one at cost price. send me a pm if interested. will definitely work with your car - if it's the same as in your signature)

Posted

chris, thanks, i'll buy now and give it a go

i'll post back here with results

 

gregers, do u know for a fact that your car is the problem?

i sell bluetooth obd2 units on ebay, we've got a really good rate of good units - 98% work

the ones we sell are not like all the other sellers on ebay (i.e. same black model)

the ones i sell are direct from the manufacturer

but... but... we do get 2% that are faulty - some just won't start and others will intermittently appear to work

all faulty ones are replaced + return postage paid for

i'd suggest you go back to the place you purchased if in any doubt

 

(let me know if u want to give the bluetooth unit a go. i'll give one at cost price. send me a pm if interested. will definitely work with your car - if it's the same as in your signature)

Omar thats interesting, but what software would you use to connect with the S-Max/Mk3 Galaxy

Posted

omar thanks for that but as i understand its a totally different type of program/software and lead??????? you need for these cars mk3 gal/smax

hence i understood mine lead wouldnt work,but if you know of a program i can get and reckon my lead will work??? then happy days.

Posted

sorry for the late reply - my email notification are going to spam

software: for the OBD2 bluetooth, most customers use torque on the android phone

i also sell a wifi unit that work on iphone, that uses one of a few different apps, the recommended one is dashcommand

does that answer questions?

the wifi unit, i could give you to try out for free - we've got a few returns that are perfectly OK - you can pay if u think the unit is any good

let me know if i answered both questions

Posted (edited)

apologies for digressing with this thread...

i now have serious problems :rolleyes:

the car has literally no acceleration - little power- i struggle to get to 30mph

 

my friend drove the car and said it was fuel injector related

i showed him the diagnostic report i gave above

 

>> 2. 19463 Faulty wiring or faulty cam sensor

he's said this is the most likely cause of the problem

instead of replacing the fuel injectors, he suspected that replacing this unit will solve my problem

he said he recently had a similar problem with a bmw (an old one) and this solved the issue

 

any opinions?

the cam sensor unit costs £30 roughly which is ok - but no use spending a single penny on this if this won't solve

 

are there anythings that should be done to fully pinpoint the problem??

 

thanks

Edited by omar
Posted

As previously suggested spend <£10 on the lead from ebay and download the free version of VAG-COM/VCDS-LITE from the RossTech site. I use the type linked to above. Clear all the codes, as if the garage didn't do so before doing their printout, some may be old as most don't self clear. You will then be in a position of knowing what the current faults are.

 

Lack of power is a symptom of 'limp mode'. The default 'safe' ECU setup for when it decides sensors signals are erratic or missing. I would check the wiring to the sensors first as that to the Injector 2 lift sensor (I think that's the only one used by the ECU) is known to be prone to damage.

 

The overboost is again common and due to sticking turbo vanes. There is info on the Forum about checking the actuator for these (on the turbo itself). It sounds like stripping and cleaning is relatively straightforward, though others have used a product specifically designed for this (10K boost?).

 

Good luck.

Posted

silverbeast, he has a 2001 model which is a PD engine. Lift sensor is on pre 2000 TDi models.

 

After checking with VAGCOM, I would look at the cam sensor (if reported faulty) and its wiring first. Misfiring is likely to be the injector wiring loom or plugs (common problem), the diagnostic suggests look at the loom/plug to no. 2 injector. New looms are available cheaply (search the forum). Overboost can be a number of reasons, but first thing to check is for sticky vanes/actuator on the turbo. Over/underboost triggers limp mode until ignition is reset but limp mode would still take you comfotably over 30 mph - that I think is cam sensor problem.

 

VAGCOM /VCDS as suggested.

Posted

guys, thanks for the replies

i purchased from the link on ebay and got delivery next day

i've now tried to use

 

first off, i got a message saying "latency poor" - the ross website says this isn't good and that u need to go back to the supplier/original company

 

most of the tests/functions don't complete - they just time out and no response is given

one that seemed maybe relevant 'disel pump' does this (was't sure if this is the same as fuel injector pump)

 

i did get some messages, see below:

 

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1

Tuesday, 16 October 2012, 18:34:28.

Control Module Part Number: 038 906 019 FA

Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC 0001SG 1457

Software Coding: 00002

Work Shop Code: WSC 02314

VCID: 5BC9146FDA2B

2 Faults Found:

18075 - PD Unit Injector; Cylinder 2 (N241): Electrical Malfunction

P1667 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

16686 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P0302 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

 

i clear this and it comes back

can one of u guys tell me what this means?

reading the text, could it just be a wiring issue?

 

1 Fault Found:

00771 - Fuel Level Sensor (G)

30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

 

ok, today i found another problem: the damn fuel gauge!!

the car is magic. sometimes i'll have zero fuel and then by magic it goes up to half a tank

now when i got the car, it started off at just less than half

have i got a golden goose of a car - one that u don't have to refuel???

yes!!

or more like **** help! how do i fix?

 

i tried running a full test. i used volkswagen sharan chasis - i was told that was what the ford galaxy actually is?

it conked out saying that this function could not be performed and that i needed to buy the full version

but i got this text before it conked out

####### Start of quote

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1

Tuesday, 16 October 2012, 20:30:31.

 

 

Chassis Type: 7M - VW Sharan

Scan: 25,01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,22,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56,76

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-019-AJM.LBL

Controller: 038 906 019 FA

Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0001SG 1457

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 02314

VCID: 5BC9146FDA2B

2 Faults Found:

18075 - PD Unit Injector; Cylinder 2 (N241): Electrical Malfunction

P1667 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

16686 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P0302 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.LBL

Controller: 1J0 907 379 P

Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001

Coding: 12702

Shop #: WSC 02314

VCID: 3E0FBDFB2979

No fault code found.

 

######### End of quote

(the forum wouldn't allow me to quote multiple times for some odd reason)

 

same thing indicated?

 

i didn't try everything. are there specific buttons that i should try?

i'm a bit lost - so all the help given would be great

 

@gregers: i'm based in hornchurch. give me a shout if u pass by :angry2:

 

@seatkid: i'm new to the website. 'where' exactly do i search for looms?

my friend said that we should start by replacing the cam sensor unit - costs about £30 from europarts

but also replace the wiring - he said he looked into this and it can only be purchased from the main dealer - of which the nearest is in chingford for us

looms = wiring i assume?

let me know

 

thanks for all the help so far - really appreciated

Posted

High Omar

 

The default setting for latency is 16, this needs to be reduced to 2 or 3

 

These are the instructions when using windows XP

You can change latency setting by going to device manager, you do not have to be connected to the car just connect the lead to the laptop.

 

From control panel double click on system then click the hardware tab, now click device manager and look down the list for Ports(COM&LPT double click this then double click USB serial port, this will open the serial port properties box, click on port settings tab then click advanced, you should now be at advanced settings for your COM.

Look for Latency timer(msec) and change the setting to 2 or 3 do not alter any other setting then click OK

 

Do not use the auto scan feature it will only work with the full version, this is not a problem just scan each module separately

Not all modules are relevant to your car and will show no response from controller.

It certainly looks like you have an issue with the injector wiring loom, this is what it looks like see link below

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-VW-1-9-8v-TDI-PD-Head-Injector-Wiring-Loom-for-PD115-PD130-PD150-/130700558700?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW&hash=item1e6e5c416c

am not saying buy one but would certainly be checking here first.

 

As for the fuel gauge there is an inspection panel in the floor under the middle row of seats under the carpet for access to the tank unit, I would be checking for bad connection there or a faulty tank unit.

 

I see some of the fault codes have not returned this may be because they are old faults and have been rectified

Posted

chris, thanks for that. really helpful

 

i'll do the thing to fix the latency in a bit. i'll post back if i have problems

 

loom? thanks for the link. i don't think i would have ever found that searching on my own

if it was a bit less... i'd buy without blinking. i think i'll get that wire cleaned first and go from there and see if we have any joy

not an expert or anything, but the error seems to indicate an electrical fault so that would make sense

 

EDIT: i just did a check for the compatibility and it says "This item does not fit Ford Galaxy 2001 WGR [1995-2012] MPV 1.9 TDI"

hmmm... not sure what to do. any idea how i found out the exact part number i need?

 

for the fuel gauge - i'll try those things you mention - thanks for that

 

i spoke to the previous owner and he told me: "oh yes, that fault's been there for ages... just fill up £10 and watch your miles and just refill when you pass 100 miles" that made me smile! :angry2:

i don't think i'd be comfortable without getting it fixed

Posted

EDIT: i've just read a few other threads on wiring looms. i assumed it would be a simple job of unplugging and plugging back in - which i'm sure it is if i had everything dismantled and in pieces

am i right in saying that taking apart to get to the part is a small job in itself??

in which case, should i just buy a wiring loom? (assuming i can locate the correct part)

 

let me know. thanks

 

i've just submitted a query with partsgateway.co.uk - i'll see what they come back with

Posted

Only have the VW part number 038971600 about £55 from VW dealer as far as I'm aware it fits all the PD engines in the Galaxy with code AUY. ASZ. ARL

Don't go to Fords they will want >£130 for the same part.

Posted

thanks for the reply

... it fits all the PD engines in the Galaxy with code AUY. ASZ. ARL

sorry if this is a dumb question, but what's the 'code'? how do i know what my code is?

 

also: i changed the latency to 3. didn't work. still poor. i changed to 2. bingo! it now reports as good. i can now read most codes of everything. a few just come back and say can't read - assume that's because that unit is not there - like navigation

 

big thanks for that - the tool is great

 

i got some other errors as well now though, can u tell me what these mean:

 

 

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1

Wednesday, 17 October 2012, 11:32:07.

Control Module Part Number: 7M5 907 049

Component and/or Version: Klimabetaetigung 0303

Software Coding: 0000000

Work Shop Code: WSC 00000

VCID: F69FE5DBC1C9

3 Faults Found:

00926 - Terminal 30

002 - Lower Limit Exceeded

01271 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

009 - Please Register/Activate

01189 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

009 - Please Register/Activate

 

 

#### Next quote below ######

 

 

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1

Wednesday, 17 October 2012, 11:37:32.

Control Module Part Number: 7M3 815 071

Component and/or Version: HEIZG. B/D5W 0001

Software Coding:

Work Shop Code:

VCID: EDADCAB7B49F

5 Faults Found:

01491 - Glow-Plug for Heater (Q9)

36-00 - Open Circuit

01491 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

36-00 - Please Register/Activate

01491 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

36-00 - Please Register/Activate

01491 - Glow-Plug for Heater (Q9)

36-00 - Open Circuit

01491 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

36-00 - Please Register/Activate

 

 

both, i didn't get first time around when i quoted above when i used the unit with poor latency

 

question: how do i find out what the codes mean in more detail? is there a dictionary lookup somewhere?

 

thanks

Posted (edited)

A lot of fault codes but not all are contained in the Ross-Tech Wiki, click on the link then click fault codes, you can also search Google.

http://wiki.ross-tec...x.php/Main_Page

 

The engine codes refer to the power output from the engine, AUY = 115, ASZ = 130, ARL = 150

You can look at your registration document or insurance notes or there may be a sticker on the plastic cam belt cover with it on.

 

The last two fault codes, terminal 30 lower limit exceeded almost certainly due to low battery voltage, clear it see if it comes back.

 

The glow plug open circuit is for the diesel fired booster heater under the n/s passenger side floor, there is a huge amount of info on the booster heater, once the plug has been replaced you will need to clear the codes for auxiliary heater to allow it to function

 

This is the link for the heater.

http://www.fordgalax...er/page__st__75

Edited by chrispb123456
Posted

Hiya

 

Just a note about the fuel gauge - early 2001 models had an incompatability between fuel sensor and instrument cluster - after many trip to the deal;er in 2002 they replaced the instrument cluster and the problem went away and I also got the indicator for the Cruise control which was absent on the previous unit :-) details hazy it was 10 yeears ago but the symptoms were the same as you describe

Posted

@chrispb123456 thanks for the reply - u've been amazing help

 

@nickpv, that's useful info. so this is a problem that may not be 'fixable'?

hmmm? better not to waste money/time/effort trying to fix?

let me know what you think

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