Simon Burke Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 (edited) Ok, if I had any hair to pull out, I'd be ripping it out at this stage...ok..Here's a video of whats happening... or more like whats not happening[media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8CPx9KYXYQ[/media]now... The steps I have done to try to rectify thingsI have removed and cleaned the EGR - I have tried a vacuum test, and it also works fineI have replaced the fuel filterI have replaced fuses relating to anything to do with engine management...I have replaced relay 103I am at a real loss here.... Can anyone help me at all???Thanks Edited October 3, 2012 by Simon Burke Quote
seatkid Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 With the white smoke I'm thinking that the injection timing is out, Also I notice the glow plug light isnt going out when the ignition is on - thats not right. Not to mention the battery light on permanently. Has the cambelt been changed recently? VAGCOM / VCDS might tell you if there is a sensor problem or there is a timing issue - which is probably why the glowplug light is flashing. How did the problem start? Quote
gregers Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 as seat kid has said put vag on it,flashing light could be brake switch needs replacing.but it certainly isnt running correctly.is the alternator charging the battery ok? Quote
Simon Burke Posted October 3, 2012 Author Report Posted October 3, 2012 yeah, the battery light not goin out... thats strange... I think the battery is charging.... but the times I have been trying to start the car, it drains the battery anyhow... but I will put another alternator on it tomorrowThe glow plug light being on... Whenever someone presses the brake pedal, the brake lights do come on....I dont have access to the VAG software.... Well, I can get it, but my PC is a 64 bit Windows 7 machine.. I have been told that it only works on 32 bit XP machine..Cam belt has not been changed.... It started after I rebuilt the thing after having the gearbox out.... I had to replace a gearbox and a clutch slave cylinder...The fuel pump issue... I have heard somewhere that you can manually tweek the timing of the pump..... How is that done?? Is there a post on how to do it???Thanks for the answers, I hope this clears alot of things up.. Quote
Simon Burke Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Posted October 6, 2012 Ok,got the cable and the VAG com Lite software..Plugged the car in, got the sw to do it's thing, and it came up with all these VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0Saturday, 06 October 2012, 16:39:25.Control Module Part Number: 028 906 021 GS Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC 00SG 1904 Software Coding: 00002 Work Shop Code: WSC 000204 Faults Found:00542 - Needle lift Sensor (G80) 30-00 - Open or Short to Plus00522 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 30-00 - Please Register/Activate00553 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 31-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent01266 - Glow Plug Relay (J52) 31-00 - Open or Short to GroundVCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0Saturday, 06 October 2012, 16:57:05.Control Module Part Number: 7M0 953 257 R Component and/or Version: IMMO VWZ3Z0W9094505 V68 Software Coding: 09600 Work Shop Code: WSC 000001 Fault Found:01176 - Key 65-10 - Unauthorized - IntermittentVCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0Saturday, 06 October 2012, 16:57:56.Control Module Part Number: 1J0 909 603 AA Component and/or Version: AIRBAG VW3 - V04 Software Coding: 16705 Work Shop Code: WSC 000201 Fault Found:00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent So, am I better off burning the car, or are these faults readily fixable?? Quote
chrispb123456 Posted October 6, 2012 Report Posted October 6, 2012 Make a note of the faults or print them off then clear faults and see what comes back after a drive. Have a look at number 3 injector it has an electrical connector, make sure the connector is clean and properly connected. Quote
SilverBeast Posted October 6, 2012 Report Posted October 6, 2012 Clear the codes, if you haven't done already. Some may be quite old as most don't self-clear. Try starting again and/or drive it for a bit (if you can). Check codes again and hopefully a lot will have gone. Re post with the remaining codes after doing this. Quote
seatkid Posted October 6, 2012 Report Posted October 6, 2012 Look at this thread- probably the same problem - no3 injector lift sensor became disconnected. Quote
Simon Burke Posted October 7, 2012 Author Report Posted October 7, 2012 (edited) @Seatkid @chrispb123456Yeah, the cable was totally sheared off.... dunno how that happened.. But I have wired up the cables together, did a diagnostic and it told me I still had a problem, so I reversed the wires, and the error went... Happy Days... @SilverBeastThe car won't idle for very long, so I am scared to take it out on the road incase it dies and I am stranded...The glowplug relay is actually black underneath, so it blew with some force..... So it's a biatch to get started... New one from a breakers in Lincoln, I think... so they are very good.... Auto Well Motor Factors.. They Parcelforce everything... I ordered a relay for £5 and they shipped out... very quick and reliable... @gregersthere's no sign of faulty brake switch on the diagnostic... The brake lights are coming on when the brakes are applied. I will be ordering a air flow meter tomorrow from fleabay... not from china, there'a guy in Leeds who has new parts....I also have a water tempreture sensor... I have replaced the one on the top of the block.... You know, into that plastic pipe with a few outlets... But still got the error... so, I will replace the one on the radiator itself tomorrow and check again.... Once I have everything put in, I'll do a diagnostic again, and I will show y'all the results...I have to say, many thanks to ye guys.... Without the help of you, I would have stripped the car ages ago.... Edited October 7, 2012 by Simon Burke Quote
Simon Burke Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Posted October 10, 2012 OK,updates on the diagnostics... Chassis Type: 7M - Seat AlhambraScan: 25,01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,22,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56,76 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 7M0-953-257.LBL Controller: 7M0 953 257 R Component: IMMO VWZ3Z0W9094505 V68 Coding: 09600 Shop #: WSC 000001 Fault Found:01176 - Key 65-10 - Unauthorized - Intermittent -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 01: Engine Labels: 028-906-021-AHU.LBL Controller: 028 906 021 GS Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 00SG 1904 Coding: 00002 Shop #: WSC 000202 Faults Found:00542 - Needle lift Sensor (G80) 30-00 - Open or Short to Plus00522 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 30-00 - Please Register/ActivateReadiness: N/A -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: None Controller: 7M0 962 258 E Component: Multifunkt.Einheit 0001 Coding: 16385 Shop #: WSC 00020No fault code found. Now, I have replaced the Air flow meter, so one of the errors is gone....but I am still getting a problem with the key and the immobiliser...I tried two keys, and the same thing happened..Could this be an influencing factor in the car not starting/running??I cleared the codes and retried..I even had the engine running, albeit briefly..... and then it died again....I checked the wire for the needle pin thingie on the injector...the wire doesn;t look the way it should..... on a normal car, there's a plug, and into this plug goes a socket and then into the wiring harness of the car..on mine, all it is is two wires coming from the 3rd injector leading to the wiring harness... Is this a problem?? Does the actual connectors prove a purpose, or would the wires connected to the same job?? I mean, the two wires from the top of the injector is going into the harness... Surely the computer should recognise that it's getting information from it???I have parts from a donor sharan... if the wiring is ok, should I replace the actual sensor on the injector... I got the wrong relay off ebay... my bad, I'll get a "53" tonight....What am I doing wrong~? Quote
seatkid Posted October 10, 2012 Report Posted October 10, 2012 Yes, the immobiliser fault will automatically inhibit starting the car. Are these keys the remote locking (with buttons) type? An intermittent unauthorised key suggests the PATS chip is not close enough to the reader coil (inside the ignition key barrel). Is it possible the PATS chip is not in the key(s) but taped somewhere under the dash or steering column? Alternatively you may have a bad connection to the reader coil. @Seatkid @chrispb123456Yeah, the cable was totally sheared off.... dunno how that happened.. But I have wired up the cables together, did a diagnostic and it told me I still had a problem, so I reversed the wires, and the error went... Happy Days...I thought you found the problem with wiring on the lift needle sensor? - I cant understnd your posts. Quote
Simon Burke Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Posted October 10, 2012 the key is just a key, no fob or anything....as for the lift needle sensor, I think I may know the problem....The wiring may not be right, or the one of the wires joining it up may be duff.... But the error did come back....as for the immobliser, I don't have a clue what I am even looking for.... PATS?? I know it's an acronym... Is this actually inside the ignition barrol?? If I got another ignition barrol and keys, would this fix the problem, or do I have to go down the route of re-coding the whole lot??? Quote
seatkid Posted October 10, 2012 Report Posted October 10, 2012 PATS - Passive Anti Theft System Every Key has a coded PATS chip in it. When you try and start the engine, a reader coil in the ignition barrel, reads the code remotely from the key. If it matches the ECU list of allowed codes, then you can start the car, otherwise it "immobilises" it. Symptoms of immobiliser inhibiting start on a diesel, is the engine will turn over and start but dies after approximately 2 seconds. The LED in the door will also flash fast, from what I can remember. Its a common problem that when people open up a remote key to change the batteries, the PATS chip falls out unnoticed. As you car doesnt start/die in this way, its probably not a PATS fault. You need to sort out the wiring on the needle lift sensor. Quote
Simon Burke Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Posted October 10, 2012 @seatkidYeah, I bought some joiners and other goodies on ebay to fix it, so I'll get it sorted quite soon...Thanks for your help Quote
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