Hand Brake Sticking

[fteman]

Hi

 

My handbrake sticks on. This has largely occurred since I replaced both discs and pads a while back. I have freed it up just by releasing it at the rear caliper (with a hammer!) and then pulling it on again and then repeating this a number of times. Of course, this isn't fixing the problem as it lasts for a few weeks and then it sticks again.

 

As for a permanent fix - is this a case of changing the calipers or new seals or something else?

I am not sure if I dismantle the handbrake part, to try and clean up whatever is causing the sticking of the rear caliper, if I will affect the hydraulics (obviously I know it will if I change the calipers). Can anyone advise?

 

Thanks for any help

[f0ster]

hello

you need to determine if it is the cables sticking or the handbrake levers on the calipers,

loosen off the handbrake adjuster under the car where two cables go in to one,

you can then pop the cable out of the caliper lever and try operating the caliper levers on their own,

if they are returning on their own fully then the cables are starting to stick, if not then a caliper is starting to stick.

[fteman]

It is not the cable sticking, definitely the caliper.

 

cheers

[chrispb123456]

The sliding pins in the caliper bracket can also seize, when one pin seizes it also causes the pads to wear unevenly.

[seatkid]

Its usually because the internal mechanism is rusted. Strangely it seems to affect the offside caliper more than the nearside (manufacturing tolerances?)

 

If you want to have a go at an overhaul, see this guide where you can see the internals gone rusty. Personally, I just run some penetrating oil into the parking lever shaft (you have to lift the rubber seal/cover) and work the lever with some large pliers, everytime I service the car, or when I suspect its sticking (excessive brake dust and or stinking hot).

 

I suspect its a lot more cost effective just to replace the caliper.

[SilverBeast]

I agree with SK, it's proabably easier in the long run to just replace the caliper. I had disks and pads replaced and n/s caliper replaced. o/s started binding soon afterwards. I have freed up at least three times since. Last time I forced some copper slip under the rubber seal and worked well (with a ring spanner on nut). I also copper slipped the guide pins and it has been fine since.

 

Tip:- If you disconnect cable and mechanism doesn't return by itself all the way to the stop it's in the caliper. (I'm sure fteman already realises this but for others who will read this thread). I think you can also tell if it's not realeasing properly without removing anything as I believe the hndbrake should always be pulled down to the floor when released, with no (or very little) "slop" before it starts to pull against the mecahnism. I could disconnect the cable from the rear mechanism without slackening the adjuster it was sticking so badly. I could use a ring spanner on the nut on the back of handbrake mechanism to apply the handbrake enough to refit the cable once I had cleaned it up.

 

Tip2: If you drive any distance, immediatley after you stop CAREFULLY feel the wheels near where the bolts are. If there is a significant temperature difference nearside to offside then chances are something is wrong, and usually it will be pads binding on the disk. Remember Front Brakes will be hotter than Rear though as more braking effort is done through the front as most of the weight is on these wheels and the harder you brake the more weight transfers to the front and hence even more effort is required on the fronts. Be careful as if a lot of heavy braking has been done the wheels will be hot any way, so approach with hand slowly. Mine was hot enough to feel significant heat radiating from the wheel and holding my hand on the wheel would have burnt me. (It's not confined to Galaxy's my Volvo V40 did the same).

 

I believe when you replace pads, particulalry with discs as well the auto adjusting mechanism (and pistons) will be retracted to a position where they haven't been since car was new (or discs and pads last replaced!) and where mechanism hasn't been "kept clean" by constant applying/releasing action of use, so they are more likely to bind anyway.

[fteman]

Thanks for replies, I have got some replacement calipers which I will be fitting today as it looks like it will not be raining!

 

Can someone remind me of the torque setting for the brake hanger and the guide pins please?

 

seatkid, thanks for that link - helped me to decide it probably wasn't worth the saving.

 

SilverBeast, I would agree with your last comment - it seems that is the reason for it sticking.

 

cheers

Edited October 6, 2012 by fteman

[SilverBeast]

Guide Pin 25Nm

Hose Union 14Nm - Not sure how you'd check this as I only have torque wrenches that take sockets and the hose would be in the way!

 

That should be all you need to replace calipers

 

If you are also replacing the "Brake Caliper Anchor Plate" as Ford TIS calls it (the fixed bit the Guide Pins fasten to, two bolts) these are 106Nm.

Edited October 6, 2012 by SilverBeast