Jump to content
Ford Galaxy Owners Club

Recommended Posts

Posted

I dont know, I really dont know! :)

 

Just waiting for another chap to reply on 'the other forum'

 

I'd of thought unless yours was a PD-TDI then the ECU pin outs, voltages etc will all be different, but really do appreciate the offer, and your help.

 

Im lucky this isn't my only vehicle. I bought this as a cheap runaround to get the kids in, and to double the 17mpg I get in the S4!

If I'd have known it I would have have thought about paying more and buying a DECENT one! lol

 

I just had visions of the kids eating sweets and crap in the back and me not having to worry about the mess, unlike in the S4. Also slamming it in any tiny car parking space and not caring if I accumulate any more parking dents.

I will stick with it though, and not let it beat me! :)

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

I guessed it was something like that - they're great for families, dogs, towing, mobile shed. You'll easily do double the s4's mpg, on my old mk1 one I was getting over 50 over course of a week away, 4 up plus dog and lots of toot. Even towing two tons+ (I mean, exactly within the regs officer) of boat back from Scotland I got close to 50mpg and though there was a lot of motorway also a lot of hills - no problem at all, hardly knew it was there. Apart from the 3hours in Grantham trying to get a trailer tyre retubed - long story). Mk2 better than mk1+ quieter/better safety features - that's why I was looking for one when I got the ghia. Compared to your S4 - very,very boring....

 

Agree about the fixer-upper - so's mine - impulse/accident on ebay, and not quite as described. Came with 11months mot & limp mode, not sure what the next test will bring. Wanted one to try the oven-cleaner fix on, but it came with so many other interesting features I haven't got round to that yet.

Nice to have the aircon when the sun shines though.

 

I think the voltages should have some similarilty on the kline, even though the connections/influence of other devices may be very different. I'm going to do this on my spare car when I'm doing some other fiddling about, it lives in a container where I keep my boat so probably not till tomorrow at the earliest. All this stuff is useful knowledge for one day/others so not wasted even if no help this time.

 

Keep us posted...

Posted

I guessed it was something like that - they're great for families, dogs, towing, mobile shed. You'll easily do double the s4's mpg, on my old mk1 one I was getting over 50 over course of a week away, 4 up plus dog and lots of toot. Even towing two tons+ (I mean, exactly within the regs officer) of boat back from Scotland I got close to 50mpg and though there was a lot of motorway also a lot of hills - no problem at all, hardly knew it was there. Apart from the 3hours in Grantham trying to get a trailer tyre retubed - long story). Mk2 better than mk1+ quieter/better safety features - that's why I was looking for one when I got the ghia. Compared to your S4 - very,very boring....

 

Agree about the fixer-upper - so's mine - impulse/accident on ebay, and not quite as described. Came with 11months mot & limp mode, not sure what the next test will bring. Wanted one to try the oven-cleaner fix on, but it came with so many other interesting features I haven't got round to that yet.

Nice to have the aircon when the sun shines though.

 

I think the voltages should have some similarilty on the kline, even though the connections/influence of other devices may be very different. I'm going to do this on my spare car when I'm doing some other fiddling about, it lives in a container where I keep my boat so probably not till tomorrow at the earliest. All this stuff is useful knowledge for one day/others so not wasted even if no help this time.

 

Keep us posted...

 

The Sharan should easily double the S4's mpg! Although can get 28-30mpg on a long run with a light right foot at no more than 70mph. But then who buys a biturbo to drive it like that all the time lol

 

Bodywork isn't so bad after a quick wash. But a good Snow foam/Clay/Polish will see it looking quite presentable after the interesting features(lol) are sorted out.

It also came with a horrible sand coloured interior that is now more of a burnt toast colour! Why on earth do manufacturers make light coloured interiors, I really dont know!! But on the upside my friend has two alhambras he is breaking, one mk1, one mk2 tdi sport, with the snazzy black/grey sport seats, and dark coloured trims which I will no doubt get at a decent price :)

 

Back on topic a bit - If you could get voltages that would be great!! But sort of feel Ive come to the end of the road with regards to what to do next. Mirez on the other forum is trying to help, and im sort of relying on his knowledge now as mine has all but run out!

 

He mentioned the Immo box might have wrong soft coding? It looks to have been replaced at some point (or at least tampered with) as one of the security torx bolts that holds the box in place has been replaced with a Phillips head bolt.

 

Ive also ordered a vagtacho cable so can recode the new key i have when it is working, although I think this can be done through the instruments which I can access. Oh and can recode an ECU too if need be!

 

I feel a bit like this at the mo - :) I think thats the closest smiley to summing me up. Irritated? lol

Posted (edited)

Just a few casual observations...

 

1. Immobilizer lamp fault - worth checking the old wires in the rubber grommet to the door(s).

 

2. Apart from your OBD scanning problems, what problems are left with the car?

 

3. Everything I've read seems to suggest that none of the Mk1 or Mk2 were CANBUS, even though the wiring was there. Why not try good old 409.1 or VCDS-Lite Release 1.1 software?

 

4. If you "really" are measuring negative voltages (which I doubt), then someting is wrong with the grounding somewhere. Maybe a short in the rubber grommet to the immobiliser lamp circuit is causing havoc...

Edited by seatkid
Posted

Will have a go with an earlier version of vagcom and report back.

 

All wires in door gaitors are intact, I have checked these.

 

From reading wiring diagrams it shows that the K-Line doesn't run direct to ECU, It runs through the immobiliser box, However it runs to clocks, and then from the clocks Can wires run to ecu. Although when i test vagcom it says CAN not ready?!?

 

Where is the rubber grommet to the immobiliser lamp?

 

Do these cars come with an immobiliser key led in the instrument cluster? Mine doesnt?

Posted (edited)

The immobiliser LED is on the drivers door on top of the door card, next to the window. i.e. where the pop up lock plunger was on old fashioned cars. It flashes once every few seconds when the car is locked (and deadlocked). It lights briefly when the ignition is turned on. If it flashes when the ignition is on or engine running it signifies an error. I was referring to the rubber gaitor between the door and body.

 

Does the led flash when locked?

 

My VAGCOM says CAN not ready...... thats because it doesnt have CANBUS!!!

 

Again, does your car have any problems apart from your OBD problem?

 

What VAGCOM interface cable are you using?

Edited by seatkid
Posted

Have just checked. With everything plugged in LED lights for two seconds after ignition is turned on. And flashes constantly when doors are locked. However if I unplug the IMMO box the light doesnt show when ignition is turned on, but flashes all the same with doors locked.

 

And the Sharan does use Can wires to transfer messages, cut your loom open and check, or even easier check wiring diagrams. But you are right, it doesn't have CANBUS wires plugged into the diagnostic port like more modern vehicles.

 

Anyway, more to the point, what do you reckon to this?? I think we may have solved it??

Please read this:

http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/technical/diagnostic-woes!-2001-sharan-pd115/15/

 

Thanks, I appreciate your help,

Tony.

Posted

seesh, not only do you have a mongrel car, but caught liasing with a bunch of mutineers!! :20:

Moderators!! What shall we do with this one? :26:

Posted

seesh, not only do you have a mongrel car, but caught liasing with a bunch of mutineers!! :20:

Moderators!! What shall we do with this one? :26:

 

Cant we all get along nicely? Lol

 

:)

 

Back on topicd(:P) do you reckon that could be the one?

Posted

Righteo. Still naff all.

 

Immobiliser box made no difference. And Full set of matched clocks, key, immo box and ecu didn't work either. I cant access ecu (no response from controller) and can only access other modules if ECU is unplugged.

Still getting k1 open or short to ground on the test under options, every other time I test.

 

Definitely stumped now! :46:

 

And re the immobiliser box. It is a 6X box with a 7M sticker stuck over the top of it. Mine is obviously missing the sticker.

Posted

Rats - thought you'd cracked it. I did a quick test a couple of days ago and IIRC (and cause I thought you'd beaten it, not documented) I was seeing data pin dropping close to zero then swinging back to 12ish each try but I'll do it properly - was attaching to ecu whilst monitoring lines on instrument panel.

I wonder what the minimum number of connections needed is to get the ecu to work....

 

Did you think about using vcds-lite as seatkid suggested, or just linking pins 4,5, 7, 16 to your interface? If I've understood correctly, you've done a big swap out but the ecu is connected to the car as before, so if problem remains after swapping the ecu, maybe problem exists when ecu is providing a path for something "upstream" that's causing the ecu to then stuff up, or possibly canbus output is taking something by surprise?

 

Agree about the interiors - mine has a similar light coloured carpet and was owned by a childminder before I got it. Not sure if it will clean but it's certainly awful at the moment. If I keep it I might well be doing some sort of makeover...

Posted

I think this is one of those where he finds out all along he had the wrong type of test cable.....

 

Misc quote for today:-

 

"The role of the Gateway (also known as the Data bus diagnostic interface J533) is the exchange of data between the CAN data bus systems (‘powertrain CAN data bus’, ‘convenience CAN data bus’ and ‘infotainment CAN data bus’) and the conversion of diagnostic data from CAN data bus systems to K-cable and vice versa so the data can be used by vehicle diagnosis, testing and information systems like the dealer VAS tools and Vagcom/VCDS."

Posted

Ive no idea now!

 

Loom checking time I think, although maybe an engine sensor is causing ecu to short?

 

I noticed earlier that while playing with the loom behind abs pump the aux water pump started whirring a bit, and after tugging the loom a bit more it came to life. Think ill start there :46:

Posted

I think this is one of those where he finds out all along he had the wrong type of test cable.....

 

Misc quote for today:-

 

"The role of the Gateway (also known as the Data bus diagnostic interface J533) is the exchange of data between the CAN data bus systems (‘powertrain CAN data bus’, ‘convenience CAN data bus’ and ‘infotainment CAN data bus’) and the conversion of diagnostic data from CAN data bus systems to K-cable and vice versa so the data can be used by vehicle diagnosis, testing and information systems like the dealer VAS tools and Vagcom/VCDS."

 

Maybe, will try an older cable tomorrow and vcds lite. Although my cable works fine on my B5 S4 and my mates mk4 golf, neither of which are Can.

Posted (edited)
you have at least 12.2v on your battery terminals (ignition on)? Edited by seatkid
Posted
I read on Ross-Tech that some functions require a minimum of 12.5 volt battery voltage....whether this applies to diagnostics I dont know.
Posted
Then its either your chinese cable/software or a loom problem I think.
Posted
Will try another cable... and then start checking the loom. Like i said pulling on loom behind abs controller made the aux water pump start coming on slowly... pulling on it more made it spin full speed, so maybe its around there?
Posted

Sorted! Anyone fancya laugh?

 

Wrong vagcom cable!! Itried my friends blue kkl cable and downloaded vcds lite and it scanned the ecu and all modules no problem!

 

Although saying that at the same time it has a new battery on it, and i cleaned the earth points around the battery tray. I havent actually tried my old cable since getting this one to work!

 

Anyway, quite happy now. And only two returning fault codes -

 

17569-manifold temp sensor (g72):open or short to plus p116135-00

 

16685-cylinder one misfire detected P0301 35-00

 

Also getting manifold pressure sensor but thats because its unplugged.

 

Any ideas as to why the misfire, and i take it cylinder one is cambelt end?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...