Limp Mode After Adding Diesel Inj Cleaner

[moz]

Hi All just wanted to know if anyone can help me out there i recently bought a bottle of this diesel cleaner and poured the whole content of the bottle into my tank since then ive lost my turbo. ive since filled up the tank with diesel hoping that it will restore power but no joy has something gone horribly wrong has anyone else experianced the same problem that can help. Thanks moz

[alan_131]

Haven't experienced this, but I guess the question is what's gone wrong... and can I get the people who made the cleaner to pay for it if it doesn't go away by itself... (probably not). Whichcleaner did you use?

 

A first guess would be the cleaner might have freed some gunge somewhere in the injection system, but maybe your limp mode is just coincidence. (big coincidence, but these things happen sometimes)

 

If it was me, I'd read the codes - hopefully helpful - and go from there. To do this, you need a code reader or vcds compatible cable (<£10 on ebay) & some free software.

This topic has current ebay suggestions for the cable http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/24563-after-the-leakage-of-water/

 

It might be self-explanatory, but if not, post the results (usually best to clear any codes, then run the car for a bit and read codes again - the codes don't have any dates on them so could be for faults from long ago) and details of which engine you have and I'm sure someone here will help...

Good luck!

[moz]

CODES READ WERE P1556 BOOSTPRESSURE NEGATIVE DEVIATION

 

Having loocked arround on various forums people suggested the below

 

1 change maf sensor

2 check for broken lines

3 n75 replacement

4 acuator arm sticking

 

can someone advise where i could get and what size are the vacuum hose i have have an AUY engine ford galaxy 1.9tdi

 

thanks

 

moz

[alan_131]

Not sure about the maf for this error, but it's been a while since I looked. MAP more likely anybody?

 

I believe people usually use 3mm silicone hose for the turbo, 4mm for egr/vacuum distribution. You can get to the N75 end of the hose quite easily to do the suck test, I've found it difficult to get to the actuator to get the hose off - can't really get a grip on it from above. You've probably seen the caution about snapping the valve outlet when removing the hose...

[a18nkd]

i had turbo problems just randomly lost turbo power so i replaced all hoses that got anything to do with the turbo then one day i drove out a car park and the car was smoking like hell then when i pulled over it revved it's knackers off all by it's self till i stalled it using 5th gear got it back home took the pipe off on the inlet side of the turbo and there was loads of oil (oil seals had gone) so sent it to a garage they replaced the turbo all was ok till the next weekend then it lost power again so had a look on here and seen a post that said replace the MAP sensor pipe in the ecu this was the last thing i would try if it didn't work then the gal was going to be sold when i found the pipe one end was just slightly loose at one end replaced the pipe and had no trouble since i got all the pipes off e-bay 4mtrs of the 4mm and had some slightly smaller stuff in the shed for the ecu (MAP) pipe. I would do as i done and check your turbo is ok first take the inlet side pipe off and see if there is oil or the turbine shaft is loose then the n75 valve and hoses if this still don't fix it try the MAP pipe or sensor it's self (MAP= max air pressure) not (MAF= max air flow) i don't have a vag com so it would have been easier to know the sensor that is picking the fault up and gone from there

[moz]

_{Thanks guys where is the map pipe located i know the map sensor but cannot make where to find the the map pipe is this in the ecu near the battery?}

 

_thanks

 

_moz

[chrispb123456]

The MAP sensor on the MK2 AUY engine is directly fitted to the charge pressure pipe from the intercooler to the EGR valve.

 

A18nkd is referring to a MK 1 Map sensor which is located inside the engine ECU which is located behind the instrument cluster.

 

Negative Deviation is low or no boost pressure, if you cannot see anything obvious like disconnected or split pipework then the turbo vanes may be sticking, as well as the other items listed.

 

See if you can move the turbo actuator rod through it's full travel without sticking

[moz]

(See if you can move the turbo actuator rod through it's full travel without sticking) Thanks for the info ive ordered a New Map sensor which ive located can you advise how and where i can locate the actuator rod will i need to get under the car is there a photo that will point me to the right direction. Maybe i can use some wd40 to release it if its sticking is this a good idea.

 

thanks

[chrispb123456]

I did a short video clip of the actuator rod while mine was off the car and I have used a spanner on the arm just for clarity, on the car this is more difficult as you will be working underneath the car and space is limited.

 

 

 

To clean the turbo vanes properly it needs to be removed from car although other members have used a cleaner http://www.dieselturbocleaner.co.uk/

[moz]

Thats great chrispb123456 excellent clip will i be able to get a spaner from the bottom of the car to see if my actuator arm is moving freely i also wanted to mention that i gave it a good bash on the road a few days ago taking the revs upto above 4000 i felt the turbo kick in but since yesterday back to limp very bad uphills not moving above 40-50 mph

 

thanks

 

moz

[chrispb123456]

Think you may be pushed to get a full length spanner on due to limited space, you can pull the lever down with one finger albeit the spring pressure is quite strong

[moz]

Hi Chrisp do you think that maybe im wasting money on getting a new map sensor or will i get the turbocleaner problem im having is finding someone in london to do a propper job as many have not even heard of the inotech cleaner. Whats your thought as its doin my head in also im staying well away from fraud motors

[chrispb123456]

Am not sure of the price of a MAP sensor and although easy to change I would hold fire and check the turbo first as this is more common than a faulty MAP sensor.

 

The cleaner is designed for the DIY motorist although I believe a blanking plate has to be put in temporarily to keep the cleaner in while it does it's job, only problem could be is removing the securing nuts on the exhaust downpipe as they can seize and shear the studs so if you or someone else is doing the job give the nuts a good soaking in penetrating fluid first.

[moz]

ordered the products from inotech at a cost ob £45 inc delivery hopefully my mechanic will be able to do the job as he has neved heard of the inotech cleaner like me we will just follow instructions will let you know how it goes, do you have any easy work arrounds to get the job done effectively. All help will be required

 

thanks

 

moz

[a18nkd]

hi moz if you type innotec turbo cleaner in youtube then scroll down to autoinform online magazine: how to cleaning variable vane turbos and that shows you how to use the 3 stage turbo cleaning kit hope this helps you

[moz]

Hi All just to give you all an update i purchased the inotech diesel cleaner and cleaned the turbo as per instructions still no turbo ive then changed the T-Map sensor and the Maf sensor (Genuine from VW )but still turbo kicks in only after i restarting the engine the car has cost me arround £400 and still the same problem i have not yet touched the n75 or any of the vac lines can someone kindly advise what tests i can perform prior to spending any more money its now begining to depress me.

 

thanks

 

moz

[moz]

hi all ive cleaned the turbo with inotech turbo cleaner changed the maf and the map but still no turbo can someone desperately help me please as its cost me £400 since then

 

thanks

 

moz

[chrispb123456]

Hi Moz

 

A few questions for you

 

Did you scan for fault codes yourself or has a garage or friend done it for you, because whoever is working on the car will need the aid of Vagcom/VCDS to possibly collect some live data to determine what's happening, this is how you test the operation of these items MAF, N75 valve, EGR valve, MAP sensor

 

Have you checked the operation of the turbo actuator arm, it needs to move the full travel without sticking.

 

Vacuum connections especially pipe from vacuum pump to brake servo look for splits at connectors

 

Was the turbo blanked off while the cleaner was used

[moz]

Hi Chrisp i have used the vagcom and am getting a 17964-p1556 code boost pressure neg deviation intermittant this was the first check i did plugging a vagcom into the car. I can paste any data but will need to know what is required as i always use option 1 engine and read the fault codes how can i test the n75 Maf and Map through the vag com?

 

also having read a thread the turbo was blanked using a flat bit of toughened plastic prior to the inotech cleaner being added. I am now looking at replacing lines just in case there is a pin hole that i cannot visible see i beleive i need 3mm and 4mm tubing is this correct.

 

please help as its beginning to depress me

 

thanks

 

moz

[chrispb123456]

It's best if a person drives and another operates the laptop then you can pause the logging when necessary

To collect live data click on engine then click measuring blocks, in the 3 groups boxes on the left type in 003 in the top one, 010 in the middle one and 011 at the bottom.

Start the log file running to get accurate boost figures you need to get to an open stretch of road preferably uphill gradient full throttle at 3000RPM it's at these engine speeds and full throttle that need checking.

If your unsure how to do this there is a demo on the ross-tech site, you can then upload the file here for us to see.

 

How is the actuator arm you haven't mentioned it?

 

There is a lot of vacuum tubing that is shaped and knowing the confined space behind the heat shield will be really difficult

Usually only the pipes exposed to heat/oil contamination would be suspect.

 

Don't forget the large intercooler pipes for splits and leaks, look at the ends of the intercooler for signs of oil leakage this can lead to loss of turbo pressure.

[moz]

Thanks Chrisb im going to change some vacum pipes can you confirm wether they are 3mm or 4 mm also where can i find these large intercooler pipes are they on the front of the engine or underneath a diagram would be great.

 

thanks moz

[moz]

Sorry you also asked about the actuator arm is there a way i can view this from above can i place a mirror under the car and start the engine and see it move please advise how i can get this to move whilst sationary.

 

thanks

 

moz

[chrispb123456]

You cannot see the turbo let alone the actuator from above, what you can do is; behind the air filter box is the vacuum pipe clipped to the side of the turbo inlet tube, if you follow the pipe to the wheel arch there is a joint where you can disconnect the pipe from the turbo.

 

If you need to remove the filter box to see this pipe make sure the MAF sensor is fitted back into the inlet pipe temporarily and plugged in.

 

Now start engine, there should be significant vacuum pressure from the end clipped to the car, now if you connect/disconnect several times you should hear the engine note change, you should also hear the turbo spool up and down.

If you cannot hear any change but have good vacuum pressure then turbo and/or actuator require attention, however if you can hear a change in engine note it still doesn't confirm the turbo actuator is moving the full distance.

Sorry can't confirm pipe sizes but at a guess sounds about right.

 

The turbo intercooler is the small air to air radiator underneath the coolant radiator again to see these pipes you will need to raise the car and remove the undercover to access, check for oily patches at each end of intercooler,also check the turbo outlet pipe for splits/perishing.

 

Don't have any pics of the cooler but as said is under the main radiator so just follow the pipes from both sides of the cooler, one pipe goes to the turbo outlet the other comes up the front to the EGR/inlet manifold

[moz]

Thanks Chrisp what i find really weird is that after switching engine off and on again the turbo is back but yet uphill it suddenly just dies can this be the cause of faulty vac lines why is it going dead suddenly going uphill or driving early in the morning just suddenly dies

 

thanks

 

moz

[chrispb123456]

Limp mode happens when the ECU receives info from the other sensors that's outside the range that's expected, you've already confirmed you have negative deviation which is underboost, this is reset everytime you restart the engine it's not cured just reset waiting for the next instance of underboost.

 

You or someone needs to physically get under the car and inspect the actuator arm, intercooler and hoses or your not going to get anywhere with this.