New Owner

[steve alan]

Hi steve here new to the f.g.o.c. normaly I'm a Vauxhall man ,but desided to get a ford galaxy (cheap 03 diesel non runner) to fix up as a project as now retired,just hoping I did the right thing

first thing I did was to try another batt on it (just an old one) to check electrics ,which all work ,display etc (showing service mesage)(batt not got the power enough to turn over) as the one on it was completly flat,did notice that there was a buzzing noise coming from under the batt,not with ing on ,but when turned off and key removed, anybody on here had this happen and can point me in reight directon as to what to look for/or replace?

also checked the expansion tank no discoulor to it,nor oil in water ,infact cleanest one I have seen,guess that rules out head gasket,

will check things one by one next will be the belts,quick look shows the main one you can see needs replacing, not checked timing belt yet.

one thing i wanted to ask is the mass flywheel, is it worth replacing with the kits avalable to convert to solid flywheel? anyone done this ,was there any noticable shaking at the pedal after it was done, would you recomend doing the conversion?

thanks in advance for any answers

steve

[gregers]

welcome to the forum steve,cant answer your querys but take a look in the faqs found in the technical section. Edited April 9, 2012 by gregers

[chrispb123456]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

When you say non runner is there something specific or just a flat battery?

The buzzing noise behind the battery is the electric run on pump, it runs all the time engines running and three minutes after switch off so that is normal

You will need a fully charged battery to start/run otherwise you will get all sorts of weird things happening (beeping from dash and clicking from relays)

 

DMF can be troublesome and some members have replaced with solid without problem, others say no causes other problems, I'm sure some others members will give you more info as I have the Automatic.

[steve alan]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

When you say non runner is there something specific or just a flat battery?

The buzzing noise behind the battery is the electric run on pump, it runs all the time engines running and three minutes after switch off so that is normal

You will need a fully charged battery to start/run otherwise you will get all sorts of weird things happening (beeping from dash and clicking from relays)

 

DMF can be troublesome and some members have replaced with solid without problem, others say no causes other problems, I'm sure some others members will give you more info as I have the Automatic.

well turns out that it was low on oil(the black stuff) my son told him to get some in quick as it was knocking from bottom, unfortunaty he got as far as asda carpark when it came to a dead stop!!!

to day checked the cam belt (not snaped) took out heater plugs and used wd40 in pots,placed in gear and rocked it cam belt turned and pistons were free,so its sump off over next few days to check the big & little ends.

apart from that all electrics etc work ,will have to check that the belt did not jump any teeth when it came to abrupt stop before putting decent batt on and trying to turn over,thanks for the reply

did notice whilst checking stuff on the net that there had been a ford recall on this one, for side curtains(air bags) and the dmf/clutch, so have sent email to see if this one has had the recall stuff done and if so when& where?, if its not been done guess will be getting the dmf/clutch etc done curtesy of ford ,(hopefully that is)wont know till email replyed to or after a quick call to ford themselves

one thing i did notice is the cost of insurance,could have knocked me over with a feather. i'm over 60 loads of ncb last year a 2ltr rover £223 (year before £167)fully comp for me & the wife, (saga)checked this and nearly £700 (saga again) with like £400 excess,now thats a joke(well i think so).so will have to think twice on running this one that's for sure,thought ins based on parts ect , ford is quite a large volume car compamy, parts cheap ,and plentyfull, so why that sort of quote.

steve

Edited April 9, 2012 by steve alan

[steve alan]

Well just to update thought i might have got away with it ,but the Eng is sezed so it looks like its an eng out job,will try just 1 more thing big bar on crankshaft see if that moves anything not holding out for much joy tho,

any members with info on best way to go about getting the lump out let me know

thanks

steve

[chrispb123456]

Hi Steve

That's bad luck with the engine, think about this before you strip this engine, why did it run out of oil? is it because it's using/burning oil, not been serviced oil/filters changed etc, is there evidence of oil leakage, leaking turbo seals can leak causing the engine to rev uncontrollably, usually ending in a loud bang, also consider the turbo bearings would also have suffered damage through no oil pressure.

 

I would seriously consider a good secondhand complete engine with turbo and seen/heard running before you buy if possible.

[steve alan]

Hi Steve

That's bad luck with the engine, think about this before you strip this engine, why did it run out of oil? is it because it's using/burning oil, not been serviced oil/filters changed etc, is there evidence of oil leakage, leaking turbo seals can leak causing the engine to rev uncontrollably, usually ending in a loud bang, also consider the turbo bearings would also have suffered damage through no oil pressure.

 

I would seriously consider a good secondhand complete engine with turbo and seen/heard running before you buy if possible.

was thinking the same ,as this is a 115bhp eng, could i put the 130bhp in ,or would i need the ecu off the 130

to get the correct hp?

also does forum have a how to do section? did use search but came up with nothing, looking for best/quickest way of getting eng out

steve

[chrispb123456]

As far as I know a how to on engine removal has not been done as it's not something that comes up that often.

There will be a haynes manual available in May for the MK2 currently there's only the MK1 available which doesn't include PD engines, other than that you can get the TIS disc from ebay.

As for replacing the 115 with 130, there are other differences beside the ECU certainly radiator and mounting and fan control electronics may cause problems after install.

[steve alan]

As far as I know a how to on engine removal has not been done as it's not something that comes up that often.

There will be a haynes manual available in May for the MK2 currently there's only the MK1 available which doesn't include PD engines, other than that you can get the TIS disc from ebay.

As for replacing the 115 with 130, there are other differences beside the ECU certainly radiator and mounting and fan control electronics may cause problems after install.

right so that bright idea is out, guess first thing to do is check turbo, if thats ok, will get sump off and try and see which/what is stopping eng from turning,as it moves a bit then locks up with a clunk,(think that might be tensioner clicking back)but guess wahtever if turbo ok will get replacement eng(same type) so as not to cause other problems.just want to ask is it poss to replace turbo berings? if so hard or what?