Mk2 2.3 Auto - Head Gasket

[philclemo]

Hi Chris

 

Yes there are marks on the sprockets and crankshaft pulley, however there are no marks on the head casting or crankcase to align with. Both Haynes and TIS suggest inlet sprocket to be -2.2 degrees off horizontal and exhaust to be -2.9 degrees. TDC on the crankshaft pulley can only be determined by setting the mark to be vertical and checking it by sticking a screwdriver down the spark plug hole!

 

Another thing, both Haynes and TIS suggest is when assembling to align the copper coloured link on the chain with the timing mark on the exhaust sprocket. Our Gal has two copper coloured links next each other, so which one? On the second dis-assembly I marked both sprockets using the top of the head casting as a datum and marked the chain link to each sprocket. I am 100% that the exhaust is correctly aligned but not too sure on the inlet as when placing the head back on it is necessary to turn the crank until No 1 & No 4 pistons are approx 25mm below the top of their cylinders so as to avoid valve and piston contact, so already, the engine is at risk of being mis-timed, hence my marking the sprockets!

 

It is puzzling as to why the engine doesn't have rudimentary marks on it to assist anyone trying to assemble the flipping thing!

[philclemo]

OK, looking at your pic you need this

 

I'll be most surprised if GSF cant offer you one cheaper.

 

Just a thought, although I didnt read the austrailian webpage fully, do you not think that the tensioner can be reset by twisting the piston relative to the barrel whilst compressing? A bit like rear brake calipers......

 

Hi SK

 

Thanks for the part link. Much better price!

 

I have tried that too, although there isn't much to play with. The piston turns quite freely so nothing turn against so to speak.

Phil

[cyborg]

The copper links on chain are used to align the mark on the crank timing gear and the mark on camshaft wheel to obtain correct timing there are no other marks for this

[seatkid]

1. CAUTION:

Fully or partially released timing chain tensioners must not be used (whether new or used).

 

Check the new timing chain tensioner.

 

 

2. CAUTION:

Install a new timing chain tensioner.

 

Install the timing chain tensioner.

 

 

3. Note:

The single copper colored link must be at the lower end of the chain guide.

 

Install the timing chain and the timing chain guide.

 

(Using a suitable piece of wire, prevent the timing chain from dropping into the timing case.)

 

4. Install the timing chain guide upper retaining bolt.

 

 

5. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».

 

6. Note:

The copper link of the timing chain must align with the timing marks on the crankshaft timing sprocket.

 

Install the timing chain.

 

7. Tighten the timing chain guide lower retaining bolt.

 

 

8. Lower the vehicle.

 

9. CAUTION: Prevent the retaining washer from dropping into the timing case.

 

Install the timing chain tensioner.

 

(1) Using a M6 x 60 bolt, install the timing chain tensioner pivot bolt.

 

(2) Install the retaining washer.

 

10. CAUTION:

The camshaft sprockets must locate in the slots on the camshaft.

 

Note:

The copper links of the timing chain must align with the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket.

 

Note:

The timing chain must be taut on the long side.

 

 

Install the exhaust camshaft sprocket and the timing chain.

 

(If necessary rotate the camshaft slightly.)

 

11. Note:

The copper links of the timing chain must align with the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets.

 

Note:

The timing chain may hang down slightly between the camshaft sprockets.

 

Install the inlet camshaft sprocket and the timing chain.

 

12. Tighten both camshaft sprocket retaining bolts finger tight.

 

13. Using a suitable brass drift, release the timing chain tensioner.

 

 

14. Using the special tool, tighten the camshaft sprocket retaining bolts.

 

 

15. Rotate the crankshaft in its normal direction until piston No. 2 is on TDC.

 

(Make sure the marks on the camshaft sprockets face one another exactly on level with the upper edge of the cylinder head.)

 

 

16. CAUTION:

If the timing chain had to be removed while adjusting the valve timing, a new timing chain tensioner must be installed.

 

Check the valve timing.

 

(Rotate the crankshaft one revolution in its normal direction and set it to the marks)

 

 

17. Note:

Install a new timing chain upper guide.

 

Install the timing chain upper guide.

 

18. Note:

Make sure piston No. 2 is on TDC.

 

Note:

The copper link of the timing chain must align with the timing marks on the crankshaft timing sprocket and on the balancer shaft sprocket.

 

Install the oil pump chain.

 

19. Install the oil pump chain guides.

 

 

20. WARNING:

Wrap the flutes of the drill bit with a suitable tape. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.

 

Install the oil pump chain tensioner.

 

(Install the oil pump chain tensioner retaining bolt)

 

(Remove the drill bit.)

 

21. Note:

A new lower front cover is supplied with an alignment sleeve that must be removed following installation.

 

Install the lower front cover (12 bolts).

 

 

22. Remove the alignment sleeve.

 

23. Attach the power steering line to the engine.

 

 

24. Using the special tool, install the crankshaft pulley.

 

 

25. Using three M8 x 25 bolts, attach the special tool to the crankshaft pulley.

 

 

26. Using the special tools and two M8 x 30 bolts,, tighten the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

 

Tighten the bolt in two stages.

 

Stage 1: 52 Nm.

 

Stage 2: 85 degrees.

 

27. Install the accessory drive belt.

 

28. Lower the vehicle.

 

29. Install the lower front cover retaining bolts (four bolts).

 

30. Note:

Install a new gasket.

 

Note:

Align the upper edge of the upper cover with the cylinder head mating face (maximum downward offset = 0.13 mm)

 

Install the upper front cover.

 

31. Note:

Install a new gasket.

 

Install the valve cover (4 nuts and 11 bolts).

 

Tighten the nuts bolts in the sequence shown in two stages.

 

Stage 1: Tighten nuts and bolts 1 through 15 to 3 Nm.

 

Stage 2: Tighten nuts and bolts 1 through 15 to 9 Nm.

 

32. Connect the CMP sensor electrical connector.

 

33. Install the engine support plate.

 

34. Install the engine front mounting.

 

35. Install the engine support plate bracket.

 

36. Install the engine front mounting bracket and connect the ground cable to the mounting bracket.

 

Install the bolts.

 

Install the nut.

 

Connect the ground cable.

 

37. Remove the special tools.

 

38. Install the hood. For additional information, refer to «Section 501-02».

 

39. Attach the generator wiring harness support guide to the cylinder head.

 

40. Using a suitable blunt object to avoid damage to the spark plug connector gasket, coat the inside of the spark plug connector with silicone grease to a depth of 5-10 mm.

 

41. CAUTION:

Connect the spark plug wires in line with the spark plugs.

 

Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs.

 

42. Install the spark plug cover.

 

43. Install the bulkhead cover.

 

44. Install the air cleaner outlet pipe.

 

45. Install the air cleaner. For additional information, refer to «Section 303-12».

 

46. Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01».

 

47. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».

 

48. Install the engine undershield (two nuts and four bolts).

 

49. Lower the vehicle.

 

Edited May 13, 2012 by seatkid

[seatkid]

I guess you can check the timing by refering to step 15 above.

 

15. Rotate the crankshaft in its normal direction until piston No. 2 is on TDC.

 

Make sure the marks on the camshaft sprockets face one another exactly on level with the upper edge of the cylinder head

 

[philclemo]

Hi SK

 

Yes, that would be a good check, thanks. I will let you know.

 

Your post with the TIS extract details a major rebuild or timing chain refit, the TIS instructions for cylinder head removal and replacement are slightly different and obviously shorter, as the timing chain is not fully exposed. That said, either the chain has more than one copper coloured link or it needs to be in several places at once!

 

Phil

[philclemo]

Right,

 

Today I took the rocker cover off to check the valve timing. I turned the engine over by hand until I lined up the marks I had made on both the chain and the sprockets expecting one of them to be off mark (for some reason). They aligned perfectly, just to recap, on the second head gasket replacement, on strip down I set the engine at TDC No 1 cylinder and I marked each sprocket and the chain link with white paint in line with the top of the head casting (see pics below). If you look carefully at each pic, you can see the 'proper' timing mark on the sprocket which is 2.2 degrees (inlet, left) & 2.9 degrees (exhaust, right) below the horizontal.

 

The second strip down was to replace the head gasket and to have the head checked, as apart from the water problems, the Gal was running fine - good acceleration et.c. So basically from a timing point my marks were as last good configuration in Windows speak!

 

So it's all back together but with reduced power, it starts fine, it revs freely, no lumps, smooth quiet tickover, good acceleration from start to about 30, then labours or doesnt get there as quick should I say? It will get to 70 on the motorway, but put your foot down it takes a while to increase speed further.

 

The niggle in the back of my mind leads me to the induction side, as I had to remove the inlet manifold prior to it going for skim. But even then, if it was drawing air in from poor gasket sealing it wouldn't idle as smoothly, surely? I checked that all connectors are clean and firmly fixed. I'm at a loss. My poor old Dad came round whilst I was doing this, he was a mechanic for all his working life and is a plugs, points and distributor man and this one really gets his goat!

 

From a diagnostics point I only have an Autel VAG-Com hand held unit. It does speak to the engine using the SAE protocol, and it has given me trouble codes to look at and clear in the past but it's not flagging anything up with this problem. Is there a better lead-type (i.e. plug into a laptop) solution? If so which one????

 

There I'm throwing it out to you guys again!

 

Cheers, Phil

[philclemo]

What is this? It's located on top of the inlet manifold directly behind the fuel injection power rail. It has a connector going to it, and I had to remove it in order to get the manifold off (it was in the way of one of the Torx screws I think).

 

Could this give trouble?

 

Alternatively, would resetting the ECU (e.g disconnect battery and short the battery cables) help with my problem?

 

 

Reading back at my last two posts sound like I'm hyperactive or something - sorry!

[mikej]

That's the idle control valve from what i can see, generally gives bad tickover when it gets gunked up inside and causes the engine to cut out at idle etc. Normally two bolts and a paper gasket beneath. You can remove it and clean it out with carb cleaner, well that's what i did some 3 years ago and it's still working well :) (Small piston inside just clean it, move back and forth to free it and refit)

[philclemo]

Thanks Mike

 

Well I'm not having those kind of problems (yet!). At least I know what it is now, thanks again.

 

 

Phil

[sparky Paul]

A generic OBD2/EOBD interface cable connected to a laptop will give you live sensor data from the engine, it might be worth having a look to see if anything looks odd. They are pretty cheap on that well known auction site, look for a ELM327 based cable, and I find that the ScanTool software works okay.

 

This probably sounds like teaching granny to suck eggs, but how did you determine exact No.1 TDC when you checked the timing marks at the cams?

[philclemo]

Do you know Paul, I think I know just where to find one of them, thanks.

 

I found TDC on No 1 by turning the crankshaft pulley until the timing mark on it was vertical and No 1 piston was on the rock (at the top of the cylinder of course). There is no timing mark on the engine to marry the mark on the crankshaft pulley so taking a stab at vertical to the engine and checking the piston top is on the rock is the only way, I think(?)

[sparky Paul]

The crank pulley mark will obviously be near enough to know if you are a tooth out anywhere, so that should all be okay by the sound of it.

[philclemo]

Hi Paul

 

Yes, quite. As I have posted previously, I was expecting, due to my own ineptitude, to have fitted the chain at least one tooth out but it has gone back as I had dismantled it, which was running perfectly (from a timing/performance point of view).

 

I'm hoping to do some live sensor checking with Scantool this weekend, so hopefully have some results or pointers!

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[chrispb123456]

Just a thought phil you haven't left off any vacuum pipes or sensor plugs on the inlet manifold area. Edited May 25, 2012 by chrispb123456

[philclemo]

Hi Chris

 

Yes I've checked everything thrice! There are two I haven't checked they are the VSS and the Cranshaft position sensor, these were disconnected as per the TIS but I can't see why they needed to be removed because the head lift didn't affect them!

[philclemo]

I connected the Gal to my Elm327 using Scantool software. Here are some readings:

 

At idle

Calculated load value (clv) 19.6%

Timing advance (cyl 1) 8.0%

Air flow rate (afr) MAF 3.54 g/s

 

At 3252 rpm

Clv 15.3%

Timing adv 29.0%

Afr 11.39 g/s

 

My dad and I were discussing the vacuum advance on timing, and whether this was working and the cause of the power drop, but the reading show that there is advance taking place.

 

Two other readings on fuel trim

At idle

Short term fuel trim (stft) bank 1 0.0%

Long term fuel trim (ltft) bank 1 -0.8%

stft bank 2 32.8%

Ltft bank 2 -0.8%

 

At 3200 rpm

Stft bank 1. -3.1%

Ltft bank 1 4.7%

Stft bank 2 32.8%

Ltft bank 2 4.7%

 

I don't know what the figures mean but should there be such a large value for the fuel trim on bank 2 or is this erroneous?

 

These where taken with Gal on the drive. I plan to take some more on the road and will post if there is any difference.

 

By the way, what is the part bolted to the bulkhead, where the two vacuum hoses go to from the inlet manifold?

[sparky Paul]

The thing with the pipes to the manifold is the MAP sensor, IIRC.

 

Fuel trim is adjusted by the ECU with reference to a few engine sensors, but mainly the lambda sensor.

 

What's the lambda (o2) reading from scantool? When the car is warmed up, it should fluctuate fairly rapidly up and down around an average of about 0.5V. If it stays low or high, or not fluctuating rapidly, the lambda sensor is kaput. If the ECU sees a dead lambda, it normally defaults to a lean setting, to protect the catalytic converter.

 

It's common for the lambda sensor to pack up during a head gasket failure, coolant in the exhaust gases destroys them.

Edited May 26, 2012 by sparky Paul

[sparky Paul]

Just to add to the above, a failed lamdba sensor seldom gives a specific fault code, or illuminates the MIL.

[philclemo]

Hi Paul

 

Thanks for your input

 

The readings for the O2 sensor are

 

O2 sensor 1 bank 1, 0.68v @ -1.6% st fuel trim

O2 sensor 2 bank 1 0.7v

O2 sensor 1 bank 2 1.275v @ 32.8% st fuel trim

O2 sensor 2 bank 2 0.000v

 

Do these point one way or another?

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[sparky Paul]

Are any of the readings bouncing up and down when the engine is up to temperature?

 

I'm not sure if the bank 2 readings might be a red herring... AFAIK, bank 1 & 2 refer to the two halves of a V-engine, bank 2 is ignored for an inline engine. O2 sensor 1 is pre-cat, and o2 sensor 2 is post-cat - only fitted on closed loop systems.

 

My older 2.3 only has the one pre-cat sensor, hence only bank 1 sensor 1 reading is active - not sure about the later Galaxys

[philclemo]

Well, just plugged the diagnotics lead in and here are the readings taken over one minute of tick over at normal operating temp (90 deg on dash, 81 deg on Scantool). Each value is as the Scantool refreshes:

 

O2 sensor 1 bank 1 Sensor 2

0.075v @ 0.0% stft 0.700 v

0.340v @ -1.6% 0.695 v

0.710v @ -1.6% 0.700 v

0.810v @ -1.6% 0.700 v

0.785v @ -1.6% 0.700 v

0.635v @ -1.6% 0.700 v

0.760v @ -1.6% 0.705 v

0.710v @ -1.6% 0.705 v

0.080v @ -3.1% 0.705 v

0.085v @ -2.3% 0.700 v

0.065v @ 0.0% 0.695 v

0.720v @ -0.8% 0.695 v

0.780v @ -0.8% 0.700 v

0.760v @ -1.6% 0.700 v

0.450v @ -1.6% 0.705 v

0.090v @ -3.1% 0.705 v

0.090v @ 0.0% 0.700 v

0.075v @ 0.0% 0.700 v

0.075v @ 0.0% 0.705 v

0.105v @ -2.3% 0.700 v

0.080v @ -2.3% 0.705 v

0.725v @ -2.3% 0.705 v

0.720v @ -1.6% 0.705 v

0.720v @ -1.6% 0.700 v

0.415v @ -1.6% 0.700 v

0.075v @ 0.0% 0.700 v

0.085v @ +1.6% 0.700 v

0.085v @ +1.6% 0.695 v

0.090v @ +0.8% 0.700 v

0.650v @ +1.6% 0.705 v

0.765v @ -0.8% 0.705 v

0.750v @ -0.8% 0.705 v

0.725v @ -1.6% 0.710 v

0.695v @ -1.6% 0.700 v

0.670v @ -2.3% 0.700 v

 

Second check with dash saying 90 deg, Scantool saying 86 deg

 

0.115v @ -0.8% 0.710 v

0.745v @ -2.3% 0.705 v

0.750v @ -2.3% 0.705 v

0.095v @ -3.9% 0.705 v

0.090v @ -1.6% 0.705 v

0.710v @ -0.8% 0.705 v

0.765v @ -3.1% 0.700 v

0.080v @ -3.9% 0.700 v

0.070v @ -1.6% 0.700 v

0.080v @ -0.8% 0.695 v

0.745v @ 0.0% 0.700 v

0.710v @ 0.0% 0.700 v

0.710v @ 0.0% 0.695 v

0.670v @ -0.8% 0.695 v

0.085v @ -3.1% 0.695 v

0.175v @ -0.8% 0.695 v

0.730v @ -3.1% 0.695 v

0.090v @ -0.8% 0.690 v

0.700v @ -0.8% 0.690 v

0.150v @ -3.1% 0.690 v

0.080v @ -3.9% 0.690 v

0.080v @ -1.6% 0.690 v

0.715v @ -2.3% 0.690 v

0.730v @ -2.3% 0.690 v

0.130v @ -3.1% 0.690 v

0.090v @ -0.8% 0.690 v

0.535v @ -0.8% 0.690 v

0.730v @ -0.8% 0.690 v

0.760v @ -2.3% 0.690 v

0.670v @ -0.8% 0.690 v

0.775v @ -3.1% 0.690 v

0.665v @ -3.1% 0.690 v

0.125v @ -0.8% 0.690 v

 

Are these values bouncing? It does seem to go from from a very low reading to the 0.7's.

 

By the way, on this Gal there are two sensors, one pre-cat and one post.

[sparky Paul]

The figures from the lambda bounce up and down between 0.1V and 0.9V about once per second and appear pretty random with the relatively slow refresh on OBD. Your sensor 1 numbers look reasonably random, and I would hazard a guess that sensor 1 is okay, they usually fail showing permanently rich or lean, i.e.stuck above or below 0.45V-0.5V. Less often, they react to changes sluggishly or give other false readings.

 

Sensor 2 (post-cat) should be showing a fairly steady reading, which yours is. It should be above 0.45V, and IIRC 0.7V is a fairly normal figure.

 

The lambda activity looks fairly normal, but I would have expected to see a few 0.8V+ figures... I haven't worked it out, but the average seems to be around 0.4V, which indicates a slightly lean condition - could possibly be a faulty sensor 1, but perhaps this might point elsewhere. Are you sure there are no leaks around the exhaust manifold?

 

This is only anecdotal, but the last two headgaskets I have done have required a new lambda sensor too.

 

Hope this helps.

Edited May 27, 2012 by sparky Paul

[philclemo]

Hi Paul

 

Thanks for your reply. So it could be a suspect pre-cat sensor?

 

When you say you have previously done H/G were they on your Gal?

 

If so your life would have been a misery if I had known!

[seatkid]

Do you really think the Lambda probe has gone bust during the time you had the head off last?? :D

 

I really dont understand why you assume your marks and settings etc are correct. Follow the TIS procedure and set No.2 TDC (use a rod in the spark plug hole to get No.2 piston crown at tdc) and make sure the factory marks on the camshaft sprockets face one another exactly on level with the upper edge of the cylinder head.

 

 

As the problem only came on after your last head reassembly, its a good bet the timing is out and the symptoms are appropriate. Dont use the crankshaft pulley as an indicator - they can slip on the crank.