Booster Heater / Aux Water Pump

[alan_131]

Hi. Wonder if anyone can help me with this please? Recently acquired late 99 MK1 TDI 110 Ghia with climate a/c. I have the auxiliary heater under the car, but no second battery and as far as I can see no aux. water pump - I've looked under car and behind fuel filter . VAGCOM lite can't find the controller on 18 - I'm hoping this is because a fuse has blown. Could anybody help me pin down the fuse location please? Haynes book only covers units with second battery, and I've checked fuses suggested in forum for both Mk1 & 2 as well as in owner's handbook - no joy - so I'm hoping somebodyelse will have been there or can at least tell me if this setup is standard (car's been fiddled with a lot I think).

Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated...

Alan

[chrispb123456]

Hi and welcome to the forum

The Mk1 Tdi's will only have a run on pump and second battery if the car had the independent heating option. and are not accessible to Vagcom

The heater is initiated by a thermo switch clipped to the wiper linkage which operates at 5 deg c or lower approximately.

If your having problems with it e.g bad smoking or simply not working then the heater will need removing and stripping down, common fault is the glow plug is open circuit so replacing the plug will normally cure the problem, and as no fault codes can be stored on this model as soon as the fault is rectified the heater will work if of course the air temperature is below 5 deg's.

 

Fuse 24=25amp

fuse 3 =5amp

these are the fuses for the heater on the Mk1

Edited March 23, 2012 by chrispb123456

[alan_131]

Hi and welcome to the forum

The Mk1 Tdi's will only have a run on pump and second battery if the car had the independent heating option. and are not accessible to Vagcom

The heater is initiated by a thermo switch clipped to the wiper linkage which operates at 5 deg c or lower approximately.

If your having problems with it e.g bad smoking or simply not working then the heater will need removing and stripping down, common fault is the glow plug is open circuit so replacing the plug will normally cure the problem, and as no fault codes can be stored on this model as soon as the fault is rectified the heater will work if of course the air temperature is below 5 deg's.

 

Fuse 24=25amp

fuse 3 =5amp

these are the fuses for the heater on the Mk1

 

 

Wow that was quick! Thank you. That explains quite a lot. I was hoping that the eberspacher controller was linked to vagcom so I could get to the diagnostics but I'll try to fix it the old-fashioned way - starting with the glowplug...

Great first experience of asking a question - I'm afraid I'll be back very soon with more..

Thanks again

Alan

[chrispb123456]

With the MK2 you can link to the heater and it does store fault codes, some codes would need clearing to enable the heater to start after a repair, you can also check the heat output in measuring blocks.

There's lots of info already documented on the site try the search box (above right) and also look in the FAQ's in the technical section (do not use internet explorer though it wont work there) :rolleyes:

[alan_131]

With the MK2 you can link to the heater and it does store fault codes, some codes would need clearing to enable the heater to start after a repair, you can also check the heat output in measuring blocks.

There's lots of info already documented on the site try the search box (above right) and also look in the FAQ's in the technical section (do not use internet explorer though it wont work there) :rolleyes:

Thank you again - if only the manual was as helpful! I've been though the site and anywhere else I could find info on eberspacher in the past partly because I was considering fitting one to my old tdi Aspen. Physically mending the heater I'm happy with, it was the missing pump and no response from controller that was throwing me, should have pulled the plug to see if I'd got 12v. I thought code clearing was the big issue, so not needing to do that is a big plus. Do you happen to know if the heater controller needs anything to make it reset itself (unplugging?) - I'm assuming it's got some way of locking out to stop it dripping fuel? I'll try bypassing the 5C switch and see what happens...

[chrispb123456]

As already said on the Mk1 there's nothing to reset, once you cured the problem it will work.

If your going to short out the thermo switch immediately you start the engine you should hear the combustion fan spin up, after a few seconds you should hear a ticking from the fuel pump which is directly beneath the drivers seat under the car in front of fuel tank.

If you hear these two things and then goes quiet then it hasn't fired up.

If it doesn't go quiet and starts making a noise like a jet engine and maybe a small amount of smoke from the heater exhaust pipe, then your heaters working.

 

When you short out the switch, which is clipped to the wiper linkage behind battery, you will need to remove the scuttle tray (3 bolts) to give you access to that area.

Let us know how you get on.

[alan_131]

Hi again. Sorry for the delay somehow missed your last reply. Right after your last post I replaced the 5deg switch with a cut down fuse, but as far as I can tell nothing's happening. I think the next step is to pull the connector and check the voltages, and maybe bridge across to try to fire it up without the engine running. I have a lot of issues with the car and until recently nowhere suitable to work on most of them - no garage & working in the road so anything that needs to be dust free was tricky - hence doing stuff that can be done in the road. Think I'll be posting a few more requests for help over the next few weeks - I've rented a container so now have somewhere to work and store my old Galaxy. No power so not ideal but at least legal and reasonably clean. First new post straight after this. Thanks again for all your help.