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Posted (edited)

Hi All

 

Galaxy tdi 115 bhp 2001 (51)

 

I have a familiar problem with the car over heating on a hill and no heat from the cabin heater on a run. I have just bought the car not knowing it had the problems, I have changed the thermostat but the problem was still there so next took the stat out all together and the car has stopped over heating but I still have no heat. If the car sits ticking over for a while I do get heat in the cab but again approx 1 mile down the road it goes cold also the rear heater gets cold. I checked the water pump impeller whilst doing the stat and it's fine (looks new to). I have taken off the hoses on the rad and matrix also the rear hoses for the rear heater and flushed the through and get water passing through the return pipe to the expansion bottle. Does the rear heater exchange need to fire up to make the front heater work? The pipes get hot underneath but the small exhaust doesn't so I don't think it is working. I do get pressure in the expansion bottle ie a small burst of air and the water comes up around an inch higher in the bottle. Is the electric pump supposed to run on after I turn the ignition off? If I turn the key on and off again without starting the pump starts and goes for around 1 min then stops, My friend has a Alhambra with the same engine but his makes a noised for around 2 seconds, stops then the fans turn on the rad for 2 seconds then a relay clicks, Mine doesn't do this so could the pump be faulty and no be circulating whilst driving. I hope It's not a head off job as I can't afford to do that. I hope someone can offer some help.

 

Kind regards

 

Marc

Edited by marc b
Posted

Hi Marc

Can you confirm the water pump impeller is fixed to the pump shaft and not spinning on the shaft

 

The booster heater doesn't need to fire up to make front heater work, it's there to warm up the whole system rapidly when ambient temperature is below 10 deg c approx

that's of course if it's working.

 

The electric pump (run on pump) should run all the time the engines running regardless of temperature and then continue for 3 minutes after switch off, it's primarily there to prevent heat build up (hot spots) in the engine after switch off and to assist circulation through the rear compartment heater and correct running of booster heater.

 

Is there rapid pressure build up in the bottle also excess air bubbles appearing through the small return pipe to the bottle also unstable water level e,g does level rise or vanish from the bottle, any of these could be down to head gasket gasket or worst case cracked cylinder head

Posted

Hi Marc

Can you confirm the water pump impeller is fixed to the pump shaft and not spinning on the shaft

 

The booster heater doesn't need to fire up to make front heater work, it's there to warm up the whole system rapidly when ambient temperature is below 10 deg c approx

that's of course if it's working.

 

The electric pump (run on pump) should run all the time the engines running regardless of temperature and then continue for 3 minutes after switch off, it's primarily there to prevent heat build up (hot spots) in the engine after switch off and to assist circulation through the rear compartment heater and correct running of booster heater.

 

Is there rapid pressure build up in the bottle also excess air bubbles appearing through the small return pipe to the bottle also unstable water level e,g does level rise or vanish from the bottle, any of these could be down to head gasket gasket or worst case cracked cylinder head

Posted

Hi Thanks for the reply.

 

The return pipe does does flow to the water bottle fast and the water bottle does rush up with some pressure even when running for around 2 or 3 mins I get pressure when undoing the cap and the hose on top of the rocker cover that goes to the electric pump gets cold. The water bottle level drops from full to below the min mark and has twice filled up and overflowed when I undone the cap. I had a friend turn the crank whilst I checked the water pump impeller and I couldn't stop it turning (pump looks new also) If I leave it ticking over with the odd rev now and again I get the temp up to 90 and heat from the heater it all goes cold as soon as I drive it, could it point to the head gasket due to the extra load from driving forcing more pressure? clutching straws here now.

 

Kind regards

 

Marc

Posted

Going by all the info supplied you've been sold a pup.

Am going to have a guess here and say the previous owner had overheating problems for some time probably caused by water pump impeller sheared or broken up so no circulation, may have been OK around town but motorway driving will show up with temperature going right up and probably loosing coolant.

Fixing the pump problem quickly can avoid a blown head gasket but left it will get worse and now pumps been done but to late now the damage has been done.

 

Did you buy from a garage or private sale as you should be taking car back for repair or money back as this could get quite expensive.

Posted

Going by all the info supplied you've been sold a pup.

Am going to have a guess here and say the previous owner had overheating problems for some time probably caused by water pump impeller sheared or broken up so no circulation, may have been OK around town but motorway driving will show up with temperature going right up and probably loosing coolant.

Fixing the pump problem quickly can avoid a blown head gasket but left it will get worse and now pumps been done but to late now the damage has been done.

 

Did you buy from a garage or private sale as you should be taking car back for repair or money back as this could get quite expensive.

Posted

Hi

 

I bought private so can't go back now. I will just have to take a loss probably and sell it as it is. We had our old one written off at Christmas and bought this one with the money, and with one income can't afford to pay for heads ect. Thanks for the help anyway at least i know what to look for in the next one.

 

Kind regards

 

Marc

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