mack1 Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 Hi folks, Have been having issues with the alarm going off on our MK2 Galaxy for a while. It looks like it is the courtesy switch under the bonnet. Can anyone confirm that this is the same part used on the door switches for the courtesy lights? Also access to the switch under the bonnet looks really restricted and I was wondering if anyone has instructions of how you actually get it removed/replaced? Do you have to remove the wiper linkage? Cheers, Mack1 Quote
NikpV Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 Hi folks, Have been having issues with the alarm going off on our MK2 Galaxy for a while. It looks like it is the courtesy switch under the bonnet. Can anyone confirm that this is the same part used on the door switches for the courtesy lights? Also access to the switch under the bonnet looks really restricted and I was wondering if anyone has instructions of how you actually get it removed/replaced? Do you have to remove the wiper linkage? Cheers, Mack1 Any particular reason you think its the bonnet switch. I have had this a couple of times and both have been wires in the door to pillar boot :-) Quote
mack1 Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Posted February 5, 2012 Hi NikpV, I have left the bonnet open so that it dosen't enable the bonnet switch (I think it did a single flash rather than double or other way about when I did this).The alarm never went off when I did this but as soon as I closed the bonnet and set the alrm again it would go off reliably within 30 mins. It looks like the switch (if it is the same one used on the doors) is quite cheap to replace and at least rule it out for starters.Only thing is that it looks such a fiddly area to work on. Cheers, Mack1 Quote
chromedome Posted February 5, 2012 Report Posted February 5, 2012 Maybe because the bonnet switch was not activated then the alarm was not set and this is why it never went off. I know my Galaxy won't even lock if one of the doors or boot is slightly open. Quote
mack1 Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Posted February 5, 2012 I'm sure the rest of teh car was locked when I did this but will check again. Cheers, Mack1 Quote
seatkid Posted February 6, 2012 Report Posted February 6, 2012 I'm sure the rest of teh car was locked when I did this but will check again. Cheers, Mack1I'm pretty sure youre chasing a red herring, AFAIK the alarm will not be activated unless all switches including the bonnet are closed - even though the car is locked. You will note that after locking the car, if you close the bonnet, then the lights will flash indicating the alarm is activated. It is almost certainly faulty wiring in one of the rubber gaitors (doors or tailgate) Quote
MadBaz Posted February 6, 2012 Report Posted February 6, 2012 You could try locking the car with the boot open, press once on remote, then shut boot, indicators should then flash once and deadlocks engage, iirc alarm becomes active 30 seconds after this, try this with each door and bonnet in turn.BTW does each door inc boot activate courtesy lights?Does un/locking the driver & passenger doors and boot with key work properly? My moneys on dodgy wiring in tailgate/driver door gaitors. To lock car without activating alarm, press lock button twice quickly. Doors will lock but not deadlock and no flashing door LED. Quote
mack1 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Posted February 6, 2012 Hi Folks, Thanks for the feedback everyone (much appreciated).I will try MadBaz's list tomorrow evening (wife has car at her work tonight). Cheerz, Mack1 Quote
mack1 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Posted February 7, 2012 Evening,Following up on MadBaz I can confirm the following:"You could try locking the car with the boot open, press once on remote, then shut boot, indicators should then flash once and deadlocks engage, iirc alarm becomes active 30 seconds after this, try this with each door and bonnet in turn." -All doors and boot and bonnet do this apart from the drivers door (can't lock car with this door open) "BTW does each door inc boot activate courtesy lights?" - All doors and boot activate the courtesy lights (Bonnet does not) "Does un/locking the driver & passenger doors and boot with key work properly?" - Both Driver and passemger doors work with the key. The key does not fit in the boot keyhole (it is dark so not sure if it is just dirt - can't remember ever using this lock since we got the car 2yrs ago) Saved for now by your note about locking the car without engaging the alarm - cheers for that. Quote
MadBaz Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) Everything is workinghttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/huh.gif , as Seatkid said. The only time I had false alarms, is shortly before I found the broken wiring in the tailgate/body gaitor, the only clue was that the boot didn't operate the courtesy lights and the alarm would go off a few seconds after I only opened the boot . I would go along with Seatkid's suggestion of checking the gaitors, other than that it could be a spider doing whatever spiders do, around the ultrasonic sensors. EDIT: It's worth getting the boot lock working, it's the only way to get into car (physical release with extra 1/4 turn), should the electrics go u/s. Edited February 7, 2012 by MadBaz Quote
mack1 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Posted February 7, 2012 Just trying to confirm what the tailgate/body gaitor is? Is this the actual linkage where the wiring goes through the doors onto the mainframe of the car etc?If so are there any FAQ's on how to tackle this type of fault finding? I will be looking at the tailgate lock at the weekend when I next get a chance to see it in daylight :-( roll on the long nights. Cheerz again, Mack1 Quote
MadBaz Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) It's the rubber boot on the o/s. The n/s one only carries the rear screen wash pipe.You need to check out the FAQ's:http://www.fordgalax...-and-solutions/Items 13,31 & 43. The insulation is usually cracked exposing the cores, and quite often at least partially split. I personally used block connectors (2 blocks of 15) on the tailgate and tucked them in the lid frame and in the roof lining, I used trailer 7 core (5 amp) for most wires and I think some section of 8 amp cable for 3 wires. There are 15 wires in the boot loomhttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif, watch out for the high level brake light wires. All the wires are different colours so fairly easy to do, just be methodical. Edited February 7, 2012 by MadBaz Quote
mack1 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Posted February 7, 2012 Once again thanks for this.Will have a hunt around at the weekend.Cheerz,Mack1 Quote
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