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Posted

Hi,

 

I'm a new member to this forum so I hope I can get some help from you all? I have a galaxy 1.9tdi 2002 with overheating issues! So far it's had the water pump, thermostat, water bottle and cap replaced and been flushed out at least 3 times but still over heats more so on long journeys say when the car goes up hill or when you push the car on over 70 mph! If the temp starts to rise there is no heat from the radiator. The last thing done to the car was suggest by the engineer to remove the thermostat to see if this would help in any way! Initially it seemed to have made a difference but the problem came back! Recently I have noticed that I have to top up the water bottle every morning with at least 1 L of fluid and the pressure release vent on the bottle on the bottom is always damp and if I put a piece of cloth there it is always really wet after a journey, this is where is seems to be losing it water! Any help would be really welcome!

Posted (edited)

Hi and welcome to the forum

You done all the quick fixes but I'm afraid your symptoms are more likely to be head gasket failure, or worst case cracked cylinder head.

You changed the engine water pump have you checked the electric run on pump, this should run all the time engines running and continue for 3 minutes after switch off.

It's purpose is to stop heat build up (hot spots) when switching off a hot engine, can cause premature gasket failure, it also aids flow to the rear compartment heater and correct operation of the booster heater (if it still works)

 

Use the search facility under your log in name, you will find pages and pages on this subject.

 

Just to add these engines very rarly suffer water in oil or vice versa

 

Run the engine with the filler cap removed you should notice air and coolant entering bottle from the small pipe at the top.

Edited by chrispb123456
Posted

Hi and welcome to the forum

You done all the quick fixes but I'm afraid your symptoms are more likely to be head gasket failure, or worst case cracked cylinder head.

You changed the engine water pump have you checked the electric run on pump, this should run all the time engines running and continue for 3 minutes after switch off.

It's purpose is to stop heat build up (hot spots) when switching off a hot engine, can cause premature gasket failure, it also aids flow to the rear compartment heater and correct operation of the booster heater (if it still works)

 

Use the search facility under your log in name, you will find pages and pages on this subject.

 

Just to add these engines very rarly suffer water in oil or vice versa

 

Run the engine with the filler cap removed you should notice air and coolant entering bottle from the small pipe at the top.

Posted

Hi,

 

Thanks for getting back soo soon! Yep the electric pump runs o.k. Also forgot to mention that the engineer did a preasure test and it was fine so he ruled out the issue of head gasket blown! No water from the exhaust either! Checked the water circulation in the water bottle and that seems to be o.k. too!

Posted

In your initial post you say there's always wetness where water/coolants been blown out through the cap, that alone says you have an overpressure problem, when releasing pressure cap with engine (Warm engine) running does the water spew out with pressure.

 

When you say your engineer done a pressure test on the cooling system, did he just pump up the cooling system to 15 PSI and watch for a fall in pressure? this could be considered inconclusive, cranking pressures on a diesel is around 500 PSI and higher with engine running and under load.

 

Have a look at all the other posts on this subject all with same problems

Posted

In your initial post you say there's always wetness where water/coolants been blown out through the cap, that alone says you have an overpressure problem, when releasing pressure cap with engine (Warm engine) running does the water spew out with pressure.

 

When you say your engineer done a pressure test on the cooling system, did he just pump up the cooling system to 15 PSI and watch for a fall in pressure? this could be considered inconclusive, cranking pressures on a diesel is around 500 PSI and higher with engine running and under load.

 

Have a look at all the other posts on this subject all with same problems

Posted (edited)
The TD has an EGR Cooler bolted to the back of the inlet manifold - exhaust gases and used to heat the coolant and get it to temperature quicker and then later to cool the exhaust gases down before they enter the intake. When they fail they cause similar issues to HG failure (there was one on here just recently) - its often overlooked by mechanics as its only just become a common feature of diesels. Edited by Mirez
Posted (edited)

one thing you didn't mention was the Radiator ? on a diesel Frontera I had , that would heat up under load, and if you didn't catch it would boil and would spew out water through the expansion bottle, BUT would run spot on the mark temp wise if you pottered around town, like you I went through the card pump, hoses, pressure test, flush, back flush, stat out new stat and still no luck, in despration I got a new Radiator and BINGO never overheated ever again

now the old rad didn't have a leak but i suspect there were a large number of cores blocked so it was only operating at 50% efficency. I would get the rad out and give it a good flushing

Edited by Amarok
Posted

The next suggestion by the engineer is to remove the rad and do a clean out it out, one step at a time! I'm not holding out that it might be HG gone! It might be worth a try as this will be a lot cheeper, fingers crossed and all that sort of stuff! I let you all know how It goes!

Thank you all for your help and input!

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