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Posted

oh dear what have i done?

 

So in the process of trying to fix my central locking on my mk1 sharan i have done something to stop her from starting. I have resoldered all the loose wires on the door hinges, pulled the fuses on the central locking to make sure they were not blown and since doing this she will turn over but will not start - i have remomved relay 30 and put it back in - is this the most likely cause or have i caused the immobilser to kick in? the problem seems like a fuel pump issue, although i can smell fuel when i try to start her - pleeeeassse someone help me

Posted

oh dear what have i done?

 

So in the process of trying to fix my central locking on my mk1 sharan i have done something to stop her from starting. I have resoldered all the loose wires on the door hinges, pulled the fuses on the central locking to make sure they were not blown and since doing this she will turn over but will not start - i have remomved relay 30 and put it back in - is this the most likely cause or have i caused the immobilser to kick in? the problem seems like a fuel pump issue, although i can smell fuel when i try to start her - pleeeeassse someone help me

Posted
Check for sparks at the plugs first. If no sparks then could be immobiliser otherwise fuel pump relay.
Posted

Ok Thank you where is fuel pump relay?

I wouldn't have minded but all that effort and central

Locking still doesnt work! :-( lol every wire bar one on driver side passenger door, 2 on passenger side passengers door, remote doesn't work - no water in usual place - should have just left her be - poor ol gal!

Posted

Ok Thank you where is fuel pump relay?

Thats the relay 30 were talking about.

 

It should click when the ignition is turned on. Usually you will also hear a 2 second whir from the in tank pump as it pressurises the fuel system, however if the fuel system already has enough pressure, the fuel pump may not prime in this case.

 

Usually the relay fails because it has a dry joint. Some members have opened them up and resoldered the connections to make them work. I think they cost around

Posted

Ok so I've replaced relay 30 and 167 and still not firing - there is a smell of petrol and the aforementioned ticking can be heard - so I now edging towards immobiliser - I've check leads, dizzy cap, etc and all look ok. On the brightside I've fixed the central locking by replacing the door/courtesy light switches, only thing that doesn't work is the boot but I would say that is the handle as it feels "loose" - just a shame I can't drive her anywhere!! Lol

 

I'm assuming for security purposes and coz I'm a newbie I am not going to find an online solution to resetting the immobiliser - suggestions on a postcard please

Posted
Further investigation has found an after Market Gemini 2023 car alarm and universal central locking device - I'm wondering if I've done something to that whilst "playing"!
Posted

Spoke to Alarm company and that alarm has no immobiliser on it! Here's a thought - in trying to get the key to work the central locking I followed the procedure for resetting the key - could it be a problem now with the key

And the transponder - inonly have the one key

Posted

Resetting/reprogramming the key only affects the OE central locking. Provided you havent lost the PATS chip in the keyfob the immobiliser should be OK. You didnt open the keyfob did you? Thats when people lose the PATS chip.

 

Did you check for sparks at the plugs? You've probably flooded the engine - hence the smell of petrol - probably best to remove the spark plugs to "dry" out.

 

Do you have a (OE) door led? (Not sure if basic Sharan without CL/alarm has one).If so whats that doing when you try to start.

 

Is the battery charged? i.e. not flat.

Posted (edited)

95% of petrol starting problems are ignition related.

 

Sorry my initial comment that "if no sparks then could be immobiliser" was wrong! IIRC the immobiliser does actually allow a car to start but cuts it out after 2 seconds. Maybe led you down the wrong path.

 

Glad you got it sorted out and hope its not made you too nervous about tackling some more such as rear tailgate. BTW 90% of troubles there are also rubber gaitor wiring breaks/shorts.

Edited by seatkid
Posted

I appreciate the quick responses and pin pointing

Me in the right direction! ;-) just a bit gutted as the coil pack cost a 1/3 of what I paid for her! Lol I'm gonna have another thorough look at the tailgate coz I can't see anything obvious. The tailgate will open and close the windows and unlock all doors, it just doesn't unlock from the doors - do I need to look at a particular colour wire as there is obviously a connection already there?

Posted

Just a thought, while you were repairing the wiring on the doors then testing did you have the ignition turned on without the engine running, coil may have overheated?

In the days of distributors with points and condensers if you left the ignition on without the engine running the coil used to get red hot, just seems a coincidence it should go while doing something unrelated.

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