Mk1 Central Locking Dead

[BigRik13]

Hi - first post, but long time reader of this great forum.

 

The central locking in my Mk1 Sharan has completely died. This is a 1998 model without the locking ECU in the passenger seat well. I also don't have a remote fob, so central locking is only actuated through turning the key in either the driver door, the passenger door or the tailgate.

 

The problem started last week when the drivers door locking motor started making straining noises - then yesterday, before I had a chance to dismantle, the entire central locking system died. All doors need to be locked manually either by turning the key, or by using the interior handle - the tailgate is actually now unlockable.

 

So, turning the key in neither the drivers door, the passengers door nor the tailgate will now initiate locking.

 

Fuse number 19, which is indicated in the fuse box diagram as being for the central locking, is fine.

 

Today I dismantled the drivers door and did a visual on the motor and latch, just so I know what to get from eBay. I checked continuity on the two connectors on the motor through to the door connector, and all cables showed up as being fine.

 

So now I've run out of things to check - why is the central locking completely dead??

 

A couple of questions might help with my diagnostics;

1. If I've disconnected the door connector on the drivers door, can I expect the central locking on the other doors to still work? It's not the case here!

2. Is there more than 1 fuse to check - I've attached a picture of my fuse box - every fuse checks OK, but as far as I can see, only fuse 19 relates to the central locking.

3. Where is the locking ecu when it's not under the passenger seat? Is it one of the connectors on the fuse box?

4. Is there an interim way I can make the tailgate lock on the key (as it's not secure until I fix)? Previously, turning the key in the tailgate lock would actuate all the central locking motors, and would also prevent the tailgate from opening - now, with the central locking dead, it doesn't do anything!

5. Any other ideas/checks would be appreciated!

 

Thanks for your help

[BigRik13]

Sorry my mistake - it's actually an early 2000 model (it came with ridiculous vanity plates so the year isn't obvious!).

[gregers]

iirc there are 3 layers of fuses,somewhere in the faqs tells you how to get to the other layers.

[BigRik13]

Ah - found info regarding the three layers.

 

Before I embark on dismantling the dash, is there anything relevant to the central locking on layers 2 and 3 though? And is this the location of the ecu?

 

I've a Haynes manual in the post.

 

Thanks

[bigdave982]

I had a similair issue when i got my mk1. Turned out to be a faulty door light switch. Seems the system uses them to check doors are closed,dodgy switch thinks door is open ,central locking wont lock

[BigRik13]

I had a similair issue when i got my mk1. Turned out to be a faulty door light switch. Seems the system uses them to check doors are closed,dodgy switch thinks door is open ,central locking wont lock

 

When I bought the car last year, the black core had fallen out of all four of those switches! I replaced them all then, and to be sure have just checked them and they're all good.

 

Thanks for the suggestion.

[BigRik13]

Ok so I've fitted a new drivers door lock motor and everything's running as it should. Sorted.

[jason.p]

Hi Rik. A bit off topic, but which remote locking system have you gone for. I've got the 2000 Mk1 and have been thinking about it. I've been reading some previous posts and was surprised how cheap they are. The only problem seems to be deciding where to site it and break into the wiring.

[BigRik13]

I've gone for the chrome stepping stone remote kit at meanmachines.biz. Admittedly, it'd help seeing the quality of the installation instructions and basing my choice on that, but in the end I based it simply on which remote looked like it'd last the longest (ie sliding parts on the remote might look slick, but it would soon be in pieces at the bottom of my wife's handbag.

Seems that the kits themselves simply act as another key switch, latching a +ve or -ve signal into the existing lock circuit.

What can possibly go wrong......... [wisps of smoke]

[BigRik13]

The advice seems to be to install in the jack compartment, where all the necessary wires already exist (apparently).

[jason.p]

Thanks Rik. I'll try and interpret the Haynes wiring diagram. I'm not holding my breath :lol:

[BigRik13]

I ended up installing this kit inside the tailgate itself. I have a reversing alarm, so wiring the "flasher" output to the reversing lights means the car will beep when remotely locked. One issue was that, on actuating lock/unlock, the kit triggered the switch for 3 seconds, which will obviously wind down all the windows. I had to wire in another relay, diode and capacitor to create a "constant to momentary" output (instructions on the12volt.com). Now everything is working beautifully!

[wishbone]

hi all,similar to above central locking just died on my mark ii.i have 2 keys and neither will open any door remotely. the tailgate is the only door i can open manually.i can turn the drivers door lock from outside but it wont open.no door will open from inside using handles. i can turn the ignition but nothing happens and no lights come on in dash.where do i start? Edited March 2, 2012 by wishbone

[BigRik13]

Well, my remote central locking kit lasted approx 6 months. First 1 fob stopped working, now the other has a range of 3 inches. Battery changes haven't helped, so I think I'll bin this piece of tat.

 

Anyone got a recommendation for a remote locking kit that'll actually last?

[MadBaz]

If you search through my posts I fitted one a while back when I had a MK1, bought off fleabay for less than £30.

 

Found it CLICKY

Edited May 15, 2012 by MadBaz

[BigRik13]

Cheers - those kits look better - do they do a "momentary" unlock that avoids winding the windows down? The kit I used pulsed for around 3 seconds, which without an additional relay, would have lowered all windows.

Thanks,

R